Teak deck

Hi Mark,
I recommend Momentive silicones brands.

Hi Apex1,
which cny you do not recommend anymore?

Cheers.
Laurent

 

Mark, I recommend: clean surface, spread your paste 1/3 mm thick just like you would do with tiles, place your teak deck, vacuum for full safety. If you don't have vacuum machine, place weight on top (weights, batteries, sand bags...).Cheers

 

The Momentive goes both under and between the teak planks, no fasteners?

 

yes but you have to use a liquid silicone solution before on teak and other substrate for 100% safety. It is a solvent based.

 

Thank-you

 

Mark,yes the teak wears faster but on that one boat that we did with the thin deck it didnt seem like it was thick enough for a flexible caulk,fortunatly the boat had 4 owners over the 25 plus years the deck lasted,none of whom were overly agressive with the maintainance and i would say they lasted longer than most i have seen and required less work when they were done,they finally wore through and the current owner just sanded them flat and rolled on Kiwi grip non skid,the seams were never redone and lasted until the teak wore out,i should stress that its only for thin decks .
I have only used epoxy to glue down the teak over a nearly 40yr career and have never seen a faliure so see no reason to change,we used to use 2 part polysulfide rubber in the seams years ago such as thioflex or dap flexiseal which required priming,more recently we have been using a product from Teak deck systems in Florida which requires no primer,im not sure of the chemistry but it has worked very well and beats the hell out of mixing our own and filling the caulking tubes.It is great to hear of other products used by folks who do a lot more decks than i do
Steve..

 

Thanks, Steve. When I worked at Delta Marine, I had a sweetheart deal. I was expected to produce but I was there to learn and the boss became my friend. On the Abeking and Rasmussen Extra Beat, at the time the largest sloop in the world, when out of my mind sorting out the hydraulics, I would do things like help a carpenter lay teak deck. We used epoxy on the aluminum substrate, as I recall. Never heard about a problem...

I guess I just don't understand using fasteners at all if adhesives do the job. You could have a 10mm deck last for decades with no fasteners (as you demonstrate). Trying to minimize weight and cost, I believe that I will shoot for about that, completed thickness. Does that seem smart enough?

 

Why did she need new decks? Thats a A&R, not any builder.

 

It didn't need new decks but a repair where something was removed and the area was damaged. All I remember was that it was starboard side, aft of the house and that you couldn't tell when it was done. I think they had a coffee grinder that they didn't need, maybe. I just helped Ivory (the blackest man I have ever known!) for a bit two days in a row.
Dismasting into a ready-made cradle, barging the mast up the river, rigging and painting, barging back down, and remasting...just that... would have broke the bank for some small countries...

 

I am currently in New Zealand and am planning on sailing to Thailand by Nov., 2011. Can anyone make any recommendations on quality suppliers and installers along the way for a teak deck replacement. I have read all the above threads and realize they are all a little old.

I hope someone can help out.

Cheers,

Gary