Taking lines off a boat (again sorry)

Discussion in 'Boat Design' started by Sotondesign, May 21, 2006.

  1. Nick.K
    Joined: May 2011
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    Location: Ireland

    Nick.K Senior Member

    As a no budget option, what about 123D Catch from autodesk? It is completely free to use and can export a mesh. I generated a reasonable looking model of my boat using it.
    Nick
     
  2. Landlubber
    Joined: Jun 2007
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    Location: Brisbane

    Landlubber Senior Member

    For taking the lines off a hull in the standing position, I have ued successfully a ladies dressmakers tape, you get them in different lengths, so they are convenient to measure the distances off as well as the vertical drops.
    Just set the boat level to the waterline on the slip use a plastic tube filled with water to get the fwd and aft levels the same point, simple.
    The parallel rail divisions mentioned above are a better way than mine for the positions of the stations, but measurements work fine if you do not wish to make the parallel rail
     
  3. alan white
    Joined: Mar 2007
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    alan white Senior Member

    Good description
     
  4. tananaBrian
    Joined: May 2007
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    Location: Star, Idaho

    tananaBrian Junior Member

    OK ...I like high tech but don't like spending $$$. The description by Viking North is close to what I will do I think (I'm taking the lines off my own boat ...for fun). I'll take a look at 123D Catch as well (can't do it now ... I'm at work). So, in a nutshell, here's what I plan on doing (noting that my shop floor slopes downward toward the door ...no drains, but water and snow melt will go out the garage door):

    1. Let the boat sit the way it is on its trailer (no need to level to Earth or shop floor). More info below.

    2. Set up a centerline underneath the keel, making it extend beyond both ends of the boat. I will likely use a plumb bob, tight string, and then masking tape on the floor with a centerline drawn on the tape with a Sharpie. Mark off stations as described.

    3. Make or buy a T-square that has long legs, say 2' on the short side and 5' on the long side (need the peel and stick measuring tape stuff ...hmmmm).

    4. Using a plumb bob, the T-square, and a tape measure, I will measure the 3D location of points along the keel, chine, and sheer/gunnel. The chine and sheer/gunnel will be measured on both sides of the boat, corresponding measurements from opposite sides averaged (fixes non-levelness athwartships).

    5. In Rhino 3D (mine is v3), I will enter the keel, (averaged) chine, and (averaged) sheer/gunnel points and fit lines to each. I will fit a straight line through the points on the keel that are in a straight line on the boat, then will rotate the model (from the side) to level the boat fore/aft in CAD.

    6. I will then fair the curves, leaving straight sections perfectly straight and using developable (conic sections) curves on the curved sections, then will fit developable surfaces to these curves (side panels and bottom panels of the boat).

    7. Once the surfaces have been fit, then I can create lines drawings from the 3D model that I just created.

    Other than possible measurement errors, anyone see any issues with this approach??

    Thanks,
    Brian
     
  5. frank smith
    Joined: Oct 2009
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    frank smith Senior Member

    Not sure, I'll look at some back issues I have and see what I find. It not a complicated procedure, but a laborious one. You could start but leveling the waterline of the boat and taking vertical heights of the center of the boat. Then I would establish station lines perpendicular to the center of the boat.

    F
     
  6. tananaBrian
    Joined: May 2007
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    Location: Star, Idaho

    tananaBrian Junior Member

    Thanks, Frank... I look forward to hearing what article it was.

    Brian
     

  7. Tad
    Joined: Mar 2002
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    Location: Flattop Islands

    Tad Boat Designer

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