Structural Problem?

[dragonjbynight]

Working on a 60 something or other Glastron Fireflite; I believe, found the numbers X4037 on the Hull.

My Main question is, there seems to have been some severe wood rot and whoever decided to fix it, didn't replace the wood, they instead rigged a very interesting looking solution. I can't really explain it as easily as a picture, so Here are the pictures:
http://i305.photobucket.com/albums/n...9/S7300956.jpg
http://i305.photobucket.com/albums/n...9/S7300957.jpg
http://i305.photobucket.com/albums/n...9/S7300959.jpg

I haven't tried a motor on this yet, but it seems extremely solid. I don't have enough knowledge to replace the entire stearn yet, but I also don't want to sink. I am only considering a 25hp motor for this boat for the forseeable future. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.

[alan white]

I would stick to a 5 hp motor! While the fix seems solid, it is bolted into what has to be a rotting structural member. You could fix this right with help from people here, but that repair you show is not going to last, and it's strength is entirely dependant on hidden variables.
If the boat is otherwise sound and you like it, fix it right and until then consider it a disaster waiting to happen.

Alan

[dragonjbynight]

thats kinda what i was afraid of, the outside has a very large metal plate and inside is the two two by six's, the problem area is wedged in the middle. I am very new at renovating boats (admitidly, this is my first) and I don't even have any idea where to start. I gladly defer to those with much more experience and i do love to learn.(need an appreticeship..lol)

[the1much]

5hp?,,,i was thinking more like a 20lbs thrust trolling motor on the BOW.
are you sure you didnt buy that boat in texas?,,,i see more transoms rotted out,,and clamps broke through here then i would of imagined ,,and ive seen ALL the "harry homeowners" remedies , and i also see them boats NOT being used after the first trip after their repairs. i dont know if you have a wife,, or kids ,, or a mother,,or even a dog ya like on ya boat,, but if you care jus a little ity-bity bit ,, you'd fix it right,, and not even THINK bout taking anyone out on it.
like Alan says,,,i second,,,and third
and all the work to be done to it,,, you can do,,,jus keep asking questions,,,and wait for more then 1 reply before ya tear something out,,,well unless its me or Alan hehe

[dragonjbynight]

lol...I believe that mr. much...researching that right now. I think that I will rebuild the transom the right way. I definitely may need some guidance in doing it right. http://www.yachtpaint.com/australia/...PageID=22530#7 How would this site, and explanation rate? as for the tearing apart, won't do that till i am somewhat sure of what i am doing. todays tearout was simple...but keeping a running picture journal of all of it..
http://i305.photobucket.com/albums/n...9/S7300953.jpg
http://i305.photobucket.com/albums/n...9/S7300952.jpg

[the1much]

well i read the first sentence,,,,dont do a thing they say! I have no idea who they are,,pro's,,glass company,,any of the above,,,but their Idiots. ,,FIRST and MOST important,,is BRACING!!!! ,,then second comes DO A PRICE LIST!
but really,,, im pretty sure almost 100% of the people (minus idiots) on this forum will tell ya ,,after you do a "looky" and see ALL your problems,, and figure if the cost is worth it to ya,,,,the very FIRST step is bracing. ,,this holds true from a 8' row boat to a 300' liner.,,so my advice is to loose that web page and look for another.,,,have you searched this forum for "transom repairs"?
in fact,,,i wouldnt go ANY further then ya have without cross bracing,,and bracing on ya outside of ya hull
and you think YOUR missin the watah up theah!!! ive been in texas for 6 years,,lived in maine my whole life

[dragonjbynight]

Yes, I have looked through all the posts, however, most of them start with already torn out or straight wood construction. The transom on this seems to be fiberglass on the out, (beneath the steel plate) and wood on the inside. I guess my first question would be, where do i start? *any picture necessary can be provided.

as for missin maine, been gone 7 years myself, grew up in Oakland.

[charmc]

A good start would be to click on search up in the blue tolbar across the top of this forum page. Searching the terms transom replacement or transom repair will get you into some good threads with photos showing how others here have done it. You'll get lots of help and answers here for your project.

Meanwhile, do as Alan and the1 said and keep it on dry land until you fix it right. The 2 x 6's are ugly but sturdy; the real problem is what's hidden inside (possibly not much by now).

[charmc]

OK, y'all posted while I was preparing mine. Nice job of beginning the tearout. Do as the1 said and support the bottom and sides of the hull now, so you'll be sure the shape is maintained when you remove more material. Repairing it with even a slight change in shape will create a stress point and future failure.

You're off to a good start.

[charmc]

Hey, Jim,

You've been called "Sir" and "Mr. Much" within a few hours, and people laughed at your funny story. Not a bad day.

[PAR]

The transom is done. A common back yard fix is to strap on some flat bar, angle iron or in this case some poor quality 2x6's and through bolt them to the mush filled transom.

Replacing a transom core is a job, but not an insurmountable one. You have a single skin, chopper gun boat, which means the pour in type of core replacement isn't possible (Sea Cast, etc.) so you'll have to do it the old fashioned way and hack it out, replace the plywood and re'glass the new core into the hull shell.

In this same vain, all the wooden elements on your boat should be suspect, if not just from age, but the general condition of the boat. This means stringers, sole supports, soles, hull side buttresses, the forward bulkhead, splash well, etc. may all require replacement of the wooden pieces.

The steering system isn't something worth saving, so that leaves the engine, tank(s) shift/throttle control(s) and a few bits and pieces other then a well worn hull shell.

There are lots of much better examples (boats) for hanging an engine on, then something that needs, nearly every surface being renewed. You may want to consider a different hull for you newly acquired parts. This is in consideration of your experience in these things, which appears to be minimal (my assumption). Unless you're in love with this old girl or it has significant value, you'd be best advised to start with a better platform.

[dragonjbynight]

ok, have been searching posts and correct my steps, but first. undo all the "rigging" that was used to fix the problem. from here, i have seen two options, the old wood can be removed from the inside and replaced the same way or,cut the glass on the outside of the boat, leaving a "pocket" to slide the new wood into. All posts differ on pretreating the wood with resin, and how to get the wood in if pulling it out from the inside. Also, most of the other posts deal with an open type transom, this has a "hood" i guess would be the best word over the 2.5 feet into the boat from the transom. best pic i have is: http://i305.photobucket.com/albums/n...9/S7300953.jpg
I have never cut fiberglass, nor have i ever done more than minor fill'n'paint. So i just want to have all my ducks in a row before i begin.

[dragonjbynight]

Originally Posted by PAR

The transom is done. A common back yard fix is to strap on some flat bar, angle iron or in this case some poor quality 2x6's and through bolt them to the mush filled transom.

Replacing a transom core is a job, but not an insurmountable one. You have a single skin, chopper gun boat, which means the pour in type of core replacement isn't possible (Sea Cast, etc.) so you'll have to do it the old fashioned way and hack it out, replace the plywood and re'glass the new core into the hull shell.

In this same vain, all the wooden elements on your boat should be suspect, if not just from age, but the general condition of the boat. This means stringers, sole supports, soles, hull side buttresses, the forward bulkhead, splash well, etc. may all require replacement of the wooden pieces.

The steering system isn't something worth saving, so that leaves the engine, tank(s) shift/throttle control(s) and a few bits and pieces other then a well worn hull shell.

There are lots of much better examples (boats) for hanging an engine on, then something that needs, nearly every surface being renewed. You may want to consider a different hull for you newly acquired parts. This is in consideration of your experience in these things, which appears to be minimal (my assumption). Unless you're in love with this old girl or it has significant value, you'd be best advised to start with a better platform.

well, call it an experiment. The boat was actually free, and I have time on my hands, (unemployed paralegal) at the moment and very little green. This is something I have always wanted to do, but never had the time nor, canvas, so to speak. I have no problems undertaking a large job such as this; however, I just didn't know how to go about it. I spent a lot of time researching and this site kept popping up. This project is just something I want to be able to use this summer and next, till I can get something with a few less...problems and more experience..but, you really can't beat free. It's as good as any other to get my hands dirty on i suppose.

[dragonjbynight]

This may show my lack of knowledge, but where else in this boat would there be wood? Under the decking? I crawled into the forward portion earlier and there were some wooden soles(right word for joists?) there supporting the front deck, they were pretty much solid. As for under the decking, it is sealed, how would I find out if there is any rot? the deck itself seems solid, only a minimum of movement when pressed hard or jumped on.

[alan white]

As PAR said, a lot of places, and most of them completely hidden (but obvious----- fiberglass and resin make up thin layers over solid wood chunks here and there. Wherever it appears thick (dimensional), you can bet there's wood in there. May be it's a rotten and wet chunk of wood, as the whole boat has experienced the same conditions of fresh water filling the hull of and on for a lot of seasons.
A drill sample is in order in every section that appears to be encasung wood.
Just a 1/4 inch twist bit, so you pick up a sample between the flukes.
You need edification. Drilling will probably show you everything from the bit diving fast as soon as it passes through the glass layer to meeting resistance (but coming out with wet wood).
Then recognize the work entails complete removal of the entire component, grinding being the means (and you wearing ear, lung, eye, and skin protection).
Then new wood cut and shaped (while something else holds the boat from distorting) and quite a bit of reglassing with either epoxy or polyester (polyester has of course been proven to fail as a water barrier, as it turns out, but may be cost effective if only a five year lifespan is anticipated).
Money and time.
You said getting the boat free can't be beat but you will discover that a free boat can be the most expensive thing you've ever owned.