Stronger Transom

Thanks for your interest VN,I can imagine the procedure you are talking about.
This was a sailing dinghy,so the hull tapers from bottom to top as it nears the transom.the transom is only a foot deep.There are three stringers,each about an inch square on the hull,inside the stern hatch.I suppose these would suffice as a fixing point for the "Knees" you are describing.
The boat was built in two halves basically,the hull is fibreglass,and the passenger well is a pre-moulded nylon/plastic insert placed inside it,the space between is filled with foam insert blocks.The moulding ends about two ft from the transom,and the space is utilised for a hatch,which has a cover.
After speaking on here earlier,I have decided not to use more than a 6hp.
The transom is well formed, strong and intact,and the general opinion on here is not to overpower the boat.
I have a (what I have decided to call)a ship to shore launch.It's only 14ft,is from the 60's and has a beautifully shaped hull.It's fibreglass,and I have replaced everything from the embedded stringers up timberwise.I have incorporated your "Knees design" for the heightened transom.It had no deck,so I have graduated the stringers in height to take a flat deck.
The boat is a project,and because I couldn't bring myself to do a "quick job"
it has taken longer than I expected.
I bought the other boat because I didn't manage to get out on the water last year,which I was very disappointed about.
Once again,thanks for your reply
V

 

"It has taken longer than expected" The most commonly spoken works of refits or building new. Usually in answer to: "When do you expect to get her in the water". Multiplying estimated time X 3 (or more) and cost X 10 usually being reality. In my case "Life's chores" has completely blown both. Whoever said "Retirement" will allow one more then ample time to follow one's dreams is outright lying thru their teeth. So pat yourself on the back if your estimated rebuild/conversion turns out to be twice as long and double the cost, you will be far better at it than 99% of us.

 

HaHa,that's very nice of you,never a truer word spoken in jest.
I suppose I have the edge really,I walked away from a woman with a head full of magic 14yrs ago,and have lived on my own since.I just wish I could turn the clock back about 40yrs.:
Nice talking to you,
Have a nice Day
V

 

Well I suppose you could put a 10 (9.9) Hp on it - if you also add a forward steering console and wheel!.

Don't forget the weight of the motor and assuming tiller steering, the total stern 'sink'. That's why 6 Hp was a max recommended and it would have been a 2 stroke as well, not a modern 4 stroke. Personally, I'd bond some ply or q/sawn timber on the inside of the hull and link to the end of the stringers. The return of the deck significantly stiffens the edge of the upper transom, so don't cut that completely flush. A lot of these older designs used to have a timber 'pad' to one side of the transom for the motor, in fact I know of a Skipper locally, so I'll check (though this one is sailed) it.

Also even with small outboards, there are long and short shaft variants.

Gonzo is quite correct in his observations, so as long as you use any currents wisely, you will get where you want to. I suspect something around the 4 Hp mark would be ideal for this size boat and minimal trouble.

You will also appreciate that current RYA advice with Killcords, is that they MUST be worn around the leg even with motors with no neutral that can be spun round and round...... ie forward/reverse......

At least you can put it in a sensible place, unlike those of us who have to comply as we run accredited courses!.

 

Thanks for your interest SS,like you say,a killcord is a must.I also intend to attach the motor with a cable,just in case it decides to visit "Davy Jones"
I have a 3.3 evinrude that will fit in the hatch as a spare,no neutral,but a nice little motor.
The transom material is only 1/4" marine ply,but I have some 20mm marine ply that is fibreglass coated both sides,and is very shape and workable.I will replace the present transom plate with it.
The transom is quite a good solid feature,so I have decided not to upgrade the size of the engine above 6hp.
Fortunately,the stern hatch will move my weight forward about 3ft from the transom,which should help with the stern weight balance.I will have to extend the throttle handle slightly,but not too much so I haven't got a big radius on the swing.I will just have to reach over to change gear,but that's not a big problem.
The cavitation plate on the 5hp,6hp and 3.3hp are all directly in line with the lowest part of the hull,so it looks like that will be perfect.
I will have a think about remotes and steering,but last year I didn't manage to get out on the water,so for the moment it will have to take a back seat.
I got out on the water last year with a pal from the Prestatyn boat club,but it's not the same as doing your own thing.
Thanks for your input
V

 

I couldn't handle getting the carb off the 6hp Evinrude,the pull starter pole is a right pain,you have to remove it to get one of the nuts off the carb,and setting it back up is a right pain.
I put it in a local chandlers,they set it up and replaced the coils and plug leads,It now runs as sweet as a nut.
It was a bit expensive,but worth it.