Showboat Sternwheeler

Decor idea: Since we have an antique, upright piano, which was going to become a desk, anyway, why not make it into the wheelhouse console...? Something different, going to have to put something there, anyway, use what I have,... I can imagine it with an elliptical cutout, where the keys are, for the wheel to be more recessed, use the Fall as a drawer (w/magnetic catches), up high, under the top,... Gutting it will lighten it considerably.

 

I think it might look really cool, but I think the temperature and moisture changes could cause cracking and separating at the joints. I know furniture make from wood thats outside even sheltered does this.

 

I figure it'll get stripped, stained and varnished. It's an antique, but pretty-much a worthless one. Looks OK, but pretty well worn out. Give it a new life and see what happens. Worst case, build a replacement out of plywood.

 

GRP but with a top "veneer" layer of densely laid out parallel run brush coir might look nice. I've wondered if a way to lay the coir out like this would be to use Saran Wrap, which is said to not stick to cured epoxy, to arrange the coir,possibly with a little added sticky, then apply in sheets and vigorously roll out all the air bubbles. It's something I've thought about attempting.

 

Design idea update

Not much of a budget, I'm on VA disability. I had planned on 1/2" plywood and 2" X 3" members and plan to use Epoxy and either Hemp glassing fabric, or Bamboo glassing fabric. Both of which are weaker, but I really hate fiberglass. Everything will be glued and screwed, using Titebond II, waterproof glue. Not actually planning a houseboat, as such. No plumbing, very little electrical, but all-electric, with some 12 VDC outlets for accessories. I've tried to do extensive research and as much of the design concept as I can.
Hull idea is to stretch the beam to ~7' 6", to maintain trailerability, stretch the length of the main hull to the original hull and deck outline, with the wheel-arms extending aft, from about where they end, now, but longer, to accommodate a larger wheel, or wheels.
My idea is to split the wheel into halves, then use electric motors to drive them separately. Don't necessarily need a lot of power, but, as a backup and until the wheel drive is done, use a pair of electric trolling motors, on the transom. Modify them with wood, or sheet metal, to be the functioning rudders, as well. Also possible to use the trolling motors and put on a fake wheel, to have a current-driven trickle-charger/maintainer, and glue-down amorphous solar-electric-panel on a mollicroft.
For the main hull (transom to bow), I was thinking a profile approximating the Selway 20' Sternwheel 'mould' design, using a simple, shallow 'v' jon-boat plan. For paddlewheel purposes, and to keep the trolling motors up, I think the transom should be angled at about 30 degrees, to allow the water to transition properly. Linked are 3 pics: one of the Selway lines, one of the Selway profile scaled closely to the Showboat top-view, and one of a jon-boat style hull plan with a low deadrise V (Email was taking too long to attach pics).

http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj5/phrogjlf/ShowboatvsSelway-1.png?t=1416767970

http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj5/phrogjlf/Stern20d1.jpg?t=1416768361

http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj5/phrogjlf/modelvl35mw16ver2_Linesplan.jpg?t=1416768527

For a trailer, I expect to get a 'tandem' axle low-boy style trailer, that uses torsion springs and trailing-arms.
I'm trying to maintain the very-shallow water capability and keep her as light as I can. I plan to use flotation foam under the foredeck, in the sponsons/wheel arms, and in the bench-like section of the hull framing, along the gunwales, in the cabin. I want to keep her low and flat, but set the cabin over some combing, as if it were a hatch-cover. I would like to keep the deck at a level where swimmers can grab on and hoist themselves out of the water. Side deck sections will be either hinged, or removable, and about 16"-24" wide.
Main cabin wall height should be about 5'3" above the cabin floor, roof sides curving up to another 9 inches, with a 12" mollicroft down the center, for standing height, and about 8' long, from the transom, forward. Kind of like the layout of a bus aisle, only with a roof instead of overhead storage. Forward of the cabin, at foredeck level, a raised pilot-house of about 4' depth, roughly styled after tugboat wheelhouses, with a view to stern, above the cabin roof, and outward angled glazing. I plan to put a queen size futon/sofa across the cabin, just forward of the transom, that unfolds forward. Should have enough space to carry camping supplies and sleep 2, or 2 and a child. Not intended as a live-aboard, but room to carry gear and go camping. Overall, the cabin and wheelhouse should evoke a cross between a wooden Pullman Coach, from a train, and a wooden tugboat.
At the back of the wheelhouse, on both sides, at foredeck level, will be doors with raised sills, to clear the combing,, like a tugboat has, for more effective freeboard, to place the wheel and controls as far forward as possible, and to allow passage to and from the deck and cabin, without interfering with the operator, while underway. I figure 5 windows, around a semicircle, with the doors along the sides.
Once she's built, and afloat, I can use the battery-bank as leveling ballast, then run wiring and finish filling spaces with foam. I figure 4-6 deep-cycle marine AGM batteries will give her a day-trip range, with a DC generator necessary for anything resembling an extended trip.
We live along the Colorado River, East and downstream of Austin, at Pope Bend. Much of the riverbed is exposed and composed of a silt/clay mix that a flat-bottom would stick to, where a slight V would give me some ability to rock loose, when necessary. I've had a broad canoe stuck in it...
Mostly, the boat will be anchored and my escape-hatch, from a crowded house, and a fishing pier. She may be used, from time to time, as an overnight spare-room, but I figure a port-a-potty and a jug of water is about all the plumbing she'll ever need, other than a bilge-pump. Side-walls will be paneled so that she can be opened up and mosquito-net placed, for most conditions, or sealed up for times she's untended, or the weather makes it necessary.

 

Wall Panel and roof insulation...

Since I expect to use light, removable, insulated panels for the walls, and roof/ceiling units. (remove and use mosquito netting, when necessary), and I'm a long way from making them, I have plenty of time to consider options.

Basically I will need to make my own, thin, light SIPs, to dimensions and shapes that correspond to the cabin design. That means foam, adhesive, edge framing (1" X1", or 2" X 2").

One option is DIY Mico-Foam panels. They would actually be stronger and lighter, IF I can do it with what I know and have already researched (less adhesive than bonding to sheet foam).

Grow your own...?

Over the course of about 2 weeks, I would stuff and grow, stuff and grow mushroom mycellium. That does NOT involve mushrooms, just the initial inoculum, some growth-media (spent grain, lawn-clippings), and a way to keep them warm, w/o over-heating, then drying them out, heating up to kill the mycellium, and sealing the panels with paint.

There IS an expensive kit, but the information is out there, if you know what to look for.

http://www.ecovativedesign.com/

The mushroom type they use is a common, edible mushroom, and kits for growing as culinary mushrooms, are far cheaper and I can use yard-clippings to increase the volume of the material.

End result, depending on the paint and adhesive (around the edges), is hypoallergenic, light, sturdy, compostable, edible (if you're Ewell Gibbons), and naturally fire resistant.

A second, still compostable, option is to fill the panels with glued-up corrugated cardboard. Light, cheap, readily available (often free), easily made fire-resistant (Borax solution), but, generally, less sturdy.

An additional optional covering is the epoxy/fabric method I plan to use on the hull (to protect the wood and help seal it better)... Significantly stronger, slightly heavier, much more durable. Use the right Epoxy and a natural-fiber fabric and it is STILL compostable...!

In essence, I'm building light, slightly insulated doors, with some sort of glazing.

Which ever I use will be an experiment. Wall panels will be fitted with some simple latch mechanism, to secure them in place. Their main purpose is to close off the interior, for privacy, protect the interior from less desirable weather and some semblance of a secure structure, when unoccupied. I can use foam tape to help seal the edges, when they are in place.

Top and bottom edges can have a lap, to help shed rain and condensation to the outside and help keep water out.

Short of building a heavy, floating fortress, No amount of structure is going to be all that secure...

 

I have not seen until now, anyone mention mushroom parts, as a part of a boat.

 

It's the 'hypoallergenic' thing. Our kids have too dang many allergies, and chemicals tend to aggravate mine. Mine were acquired, through chemical training, in the Army. Tear Gas only permanently affects some 0.08% of the people exposed. Guess that makes me one of less than 1/10th of a percent of the human population. Definitely NOT an exclusive club that I'd recommend.

 

Ain't really the 'Showboat' anymore...

I reckon she has had enough design changes (before the 1st cut, of the 1st piece of lumber), the 'Showboat' won't look anything like the initial inspiration...

Next week, I guess I get to start a slow, build thread...

Look for the 'Hemphill Prairie Rose'... Paddling to a river near me...