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  #16  
Old 01-10-2008, 12:11 AM
charmc charmc is offline
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Will,

Yeah, strain test data would be interesting. Of course, as you mention, a robust cleat is useless unless through bolted to a strong part of the deck or bulwark, with a large and heavy backing plate. For the last ones I installed, on a 30' boat, I used 3/8" (10 mm) SS bolts. I don't remember the exact tensile strength, but the hull would come apart before those bolts broke.
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  #17  
Old 01-10-2008, 02:32 AM
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Frosty Frosty is online now
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I tie my fenders to the 1 inch hand rail surrounding the boat. I would like to think that the cleats would hold the weight of the boat 13 tons.

The insurance company over saw the lashing of the boat using these cleats when she was shipped.

To me a cleat is how you attach a rope to the boat. The reason for this can be many towing ,being towed anchoring or taking a bite from the main anchor chain, Whatever. Having to consider its weaknesess before use is not an option in my book.

Cleats and fairleeds are usually inadequate on modern boats.

Its my opinion that many accidents have been caused by inadequate equipment in the name of esthetics and profit.
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  #18  
Old 01-10-2008, 03:58 PM
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Willallison Willallison is offline
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Ok Frosty - and how are your 25mm hand rails attached to the boat?
Sorry, I'm not trying to have a go....
As you say, horses for courses - in this instance I'm looking for cleating solutions for a relatively light weight trailerable powerboat that by necessity has narrow side decks. I've stubbed my toe on similar boats before and have no desire to do so again....

I think I'll drop a note to the editor of a couple of good boating mags and suggest they run some strain testing.....
In most instances though, I would think that the deck would give way before the cleat...
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  #19  
Old 01-10-2008, 07:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Willallison View Post
Ok Frosty - and how are your 25mm hand rails attached to the boat?
By 24mm stancheons Will, but the forces to a fender are few, and can only be by the fender getting stuck between the boat and the dock there by producing a downward force,---the way the stancheon can take it best.
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  #20  
Old 01-10-2008, 07:53 PM
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I disagree that the 'engineering' is good.
Take the one that folds down, it folds down on a hinge, a hinge that has a small pin that cant be much more than 3/4mm. Through the cleat is a hole.

A chain is as strong as its weakest link.

They are by no means as strong as a proper cleat.

For a speed boat thats needs to tie up to a fishing pier while you pop up the the shop they are ok. But for a serious sea boat,well--I wouldnt tie my fenders to them.
I know, I know, I'm being pedantic.... I promise to stop going on about this... but.... well if your stanchions are screwed to cap rails - as so many are, then they ain't that strong.... surely not as strong as even the weakest of cleats.....
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  #21  
Old 01-10-2008, 11:20 PM
charmc charmc is offline
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I promise to stop going on about this... but.... well if .....
Ah, temptation. In all likelihood, the desire to be right was the catalyst
for the development of language by early man.

Chuckling sympathetically, Will. I recognize that temptation to keep making points and continue a good discussion ... every time I look in a mirror it's sitting on my own shoulder.
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  #22  
Old 01-11-2008, 01:35 AM
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The hand rails and stancheons are bolted through the hull with 4 bolt feet with nuts and bolts --6mm. You can walk on it.
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  #23  
Old 01-14-2008, 03:44 PM
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Amazingly (and most pleasingly), one of the manufacturers actually publishes recommended max loadings for their cleats. These are alloy ones of the fold-up variety...

If I track down some similar info on 'traditional' cleats, I'll post it too....
Attached Thumbnails
Pop-Up Cleats-cleat-loads.jpg  
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  #24  
Old 01-24-2008, 12:12 AM
charmc charmc is offline
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FYI all, I saw a picture of Wallygator recently. 25 m/82 ft and 30 T displacement. Has pop up cleats. I gues if you pay enough, you can get good ones.
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