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#1
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| Playing around Here is something I have been playing around with for a week or so. It has many limitations, but I think it might be viable for the slot that it fits into. The boat is designed to fit into the same niche as the Bolger Micro or Michalak's Musicbox2 and 3. I wanted a slightly taller cabin for a little more headroom but just as shallow a draft as Jim's boats. I also thought that Bolger's Micro was a little lacking in the asthetics department, at least for me. I haven't decided on the rig or the type of lateral resistance (hoping for suggestions here). Unloaded trailer wt should run about 700-800 lbs, and all up displacement is in the 1800 lb range. Cabin length is about 8.5 ft with 7.5 ft to the transom. Cockpit should run about 4.5-5 ft with seats and lockers built in. The boat runs 17 ft(+/-) LOA and has a max beam of about 6.6 ft. Waterline length is 15.8 ft and WL beam is about 5.7 ft. So anyway...I'm trolling for some opinions here, based on what the boat can and might be able to do within its limitations. Steve |
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#2
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| Cool boat ![]()
__________________ Wynand A scatterling of Africa Follow my latest project here: http://www.lotus7.co.nz/forum/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=1530My Webpage: Steel Boatbuilding: http://5psi.net |
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#3
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| For lateral area, my vote is for an enclosed offset centerboard that also serves as the edge of a bunk and seat. And for sail rig, my vote is for a low aspect ratio 3/4 fractional sloop, or a gaff sloop. This combo will give you the best overall performance for the least agravation and complexity. For your first reef, you simply take in your jib, then adjust the long centerboard. For the rest of your reefs, the mainsail should be within convienient reach. With the hull you show, you should be able to get nearly perfect ballance with each sail 'setting' if your willing to play with the centrboard line enough. I would stay away from 'self bailing' cockpits here too. I think they are over rated. Especially for boats this size. Good handling, a good pump or bucket, and a good cockpit cover for when the boat is not in use should serve just as well. And you can sit lower in the boat and therefore improve its range of stability too. I think you have th makings of a real good 'trailer sailer' here that should be able to handle, with proper crew experience, most coastal sailing. Remember: swear, don't panic. I would arrange for the stores to go under seats and bunks so that they can be interchangable with ballast. The hinged seat and bunk tops will have to have good, sturdy latches tho. Bob |
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#4
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| I agree with Sharpii on the offset CB. I like the one by Graham Byrnes on the B&B website with a symetrical keel on the opposite side and a shallow centerline keel. I do like self draining cockpits when possible but don't care for transom bows on any but dinghys. Personal opinions, but you asked. The prismatic coefficient looks a bit low to me if the loaded waterline is a shown.
__________________ Tom Lathrop |
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#5
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| Maybe a vertical drop keel and an off center hatch, if the keel can be placed just in front of the main bulkhead? |
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#6
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| swinging centreboard with case under the cockpit floor. Shouldn't protude into the cabin area much. In my opinion you want a self draining cockpit. A low aspect 3/4 rig would work well. Something along the lines of Hartley 16 trailer yacht. (been sailing trailer yachts this size an bigger for 25 years) |
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#7
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| Thanks for the opinions folks...much better than I expected. I usually set the ones I like aside for a couple of months and then look at them again to see if they still appeal to me. This one is one of those that will get a second look. Steve |