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  #166  
Old 07-27-2010, 01:27 AM
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Easy Rider Easy Rider is offline
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I had no idea the sawn frames were that close together. That should be fine but you may not get much flex right on the frame. Wow ..that's a lot of frames. That sorta explains the 20000lbs without any ballast. Soak the planks in kerosene before steaming. Drive raw linseed oil into the wood w kerosene and turpentine. Get the book "Skiffs and Schooners" by RD Culler. He tells about pine tar, tallow and other wood building tricks and methods. A good read too.

Eric
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  #167  
Old 07-27-2010, 01:44 AM
Boston Boston is offline
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cool
Im a big fan of alkali stains and tonge oil

thing is glue does not stick to tonge oil or however you spell that

so it would have to be oiled after the fact

deal is tonge oil is perfect cause there is no sanding before reapplication, just wash it down, let it dry, and slather on more oil. Must be real Tonge oil and not boiled. Otherwise it just sits on top

I'll be using a lot of cherry and walnut ( both dam rot resistant ) as well as white oak. Planking material as yet to be determined but not ceder as Im slightly allergic to ceder



I might also consider scaling it up to 5% taller 5% wider and 15% longer if it helps with the stability issues of just lengthening it. But I will not be cracking my head every time I move nor will I be living in a 7x7 room house. Simply not happening, combining the upper wheel house area with the aft cabin area seems the logical solution
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  #168  
Old 07-29-2010, 09:58 PM
Boston Boston is offline
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Pat Atkins turns out to be a really nice Gal, Had some really nice things to say about old Ted Brewer and also commented on the honest of my Na concerning altering the Atkins plan.

Nice to know what I decent bunch of folks I'm dealing with.

cheers
B
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  #169  
Old 07-30-2010, 06:38 PM
Boston Boston is offline
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well I spoke to Ted and he recommended that I stay to 10%. In which case its not really advantageous to also move the width and height. Also mentioned how most people just change it however they want to and then tell him about it later rather than run it past him in the first place, I think he appreciated me asking before I went and changed anything. He seems to be ok with the forward raking windows and recommended (before I did) that I extend the aft cabin. He did not object when I suggested that I wanted to play with the interior layout either so that was a plus

basically I've bought the prints and am just waiting for them to arrive at this point

I think I'm inclined to buy one more set of prints of another boat I'm looking at and then with all three in front of me I can guesstimate the build costs for each

meanwhile back at the ranch I can be making preparations. I need to get the mill work going asap so I can have some stock to work from this winter

cheers
B
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  #170  
Old 07-30-2010, 11:30 PM
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Easy Rider Easy Rider is offline
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My favorite oil at this point is raw Linseed oli and Turpentine. Turp is said to have anti-mildew properties. And there is a mildewcide that is compatible with Linseed and Turp. Culler talks a lot about Kerosene in the bilge of new-builds.
I would be thinking Raw linseed oil, Kerosene, Turpentine and mildewcide.
Thats what I've got on my cap-rail without the kerosene.

Easy
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  #171  
Old 07-31-2010, 12:06 AM
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WestVanHan WestVanHan is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boston View Post

I think I'm inclined to buy one more set of prints of another boat I'm looking at and then with all three in front of me I can guesstimate the build costs for each
....so does this mean you've kinda sorta perhaps maybe possibly narrowed it down??
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  #172  
Old 07-31-2010, 12:57 AM
Boston Boston is offline
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sure does

pretty sure its the Ted Brewer Grand Banks 33 ( actually 32.75 ) stretched to 36 ( or 10% over original )
I just bought the prints

its narrow enough to get down the road
short enough to get down the road
light enough ( minus all fluids ) for me to drive myself on my existing license
and stout enough to make it out to the Alutions from the inside passage on a good day. That and I could make it through the Columbia Bar on launch day assuming my piloting skills are up to it

speaking of which
whats the requirements for a captains license on a boat of 36'

like I said
I'm buying 3 sets of prints that are all in serious contention and going to consider cost and what not from there while I make a few preparations to build

anyway for as funny as it sounds I do appreciate the abuse as I know I've been down right retarded about making this decision

cheers
B
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  #173  
Old 07-31-2010, 12:58 AM
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troy2000 troy2000 is offline
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Originally Posted by WestVanHan View Post
....so does this mean you've kinda sorta perhaps maybe possibly narrowed it down??
Don't pick on the man. If he keeps going long enough, maybe I can eventually sell him a set of plans, too....

--That was a joke, Boston.
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  #174  
Old 07-31-2010, 01:05 AM
Boston Boston is offline
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Im ok with that Troy
I gotta admit this has been one torturous decision

clearly I am not qualified to design my own
so I have to rely on anothers design

my first pick in design doesn't suet the water in which I want to sail soooo

its all one big fat compromise and I'm not a very compromising person
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  #175  
Old 07-31-2010, 01:15 AM
Boston Boston is offline
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just in from the pub by the way so Im feeling brave and will attempt to list the changes I have in mind for the Grand Banks

1) stretch hull 10%
2) keep the pilot house at its original distance off the stem
3) keep pilot house to its original length
4) use the entire 3'3" to lenghten the aft cabin
5) loose the two pilot house doors and go with one door opening to the flying bridge

ok will list the rest later

knda fading

B
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  #176  
Old 07-31-2010, 01:36 AM
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Landlubber Landlubber is offline
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Mate, that is starting to look like "real" boat.....
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  #177  
Old 07-31-2010, 07:02 AM
FAST FRED FAST FRED is offline
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Location: Conn in summers , Ortona FL in winter , with big dock & room for O'nite stop .
I want a wood hull that will flex when I hit a rock,


FORGETABOUT IT , the difference in speed at which you can "hit a rock" and the hull will resist by flexing , and the speed at which the hull will hole is minor.

A lighter boat might lift , a steel boat may dent , but a set of water tight bulkheads is a better choice for most bouncing off rocks.

FF
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  #178  
Old 07-31-2010, 07:11 AM
Boston Boston is offline
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Lmao

Big tides up in the pacific northwest that and lots of rocks. Also lots of floating debris from what I gather so a good strong hull might just come in handy.

If you look at the print you can see not only some serious collision bulk heads ( looks like they are intended to be water tight to me but I need to get the prints before I can say that definitively ) but also what might be enough room to make this thing positively buoyant

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  #179  
Old 07-31-2010, 11:23 AM
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WestVanHan WestVanHan is offline
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Choosing the right boat to buy is hard enough let alone choosing one to build.
I don't have the patience in such matters.

I shouldn't mention this but there's a boat at Shelter island that's very similar to the Elco(?) you lust after.
If i had my cam at the time I'd have taken a pic

Protected rudder and prop are perfect,an acquaintance made a very good living for many years repairing these after contact with rocks and logs.
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  #180  
Old 07-31-2010, 01:41 PM
Boston Boston is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boston View Post
just in from the pub by the way so Im feeling brave and will attempt to list the changes I have in mind for the Grand Banks

1) stretch hull 10%
2) keep the pilot house at its original distance off the stem
3) keep pilot house to its original length
4) use the entire 3'3" to lenghten the aft cabin
5) loose the two pilot house doors and go with one door opening to the flying bridge

ok will list the rest later

knda fading

B
ah wouldn't confuse me a bit West, har har har Although nothing is set in stone until I cut that first board I've pretty much decided on this boat with a few minor modifications. I have both the designer and another NA to help me decide what is and isn't reasonable mods.

I also have a guy lined up to render the mods into a 3d walk through model. I'm going with cherry raised panel deckhouses similar to the widgeon detailing but over ply for strength. I think, need to check the weight budget and stay within specs. I could keep the highly detailed stuff interior but it would be nice to throw some chrome exterior as well.

maybe I'll stick to black walnut exterior trim over white panel sorta like what is pictured but darker and slightly more extensive and work in a serious cherry interior.

Will get the prints off to the render'rs ( cant spell for **** anyway and I definitely cant spell that one ) and play with trim soonest right after I get the deck house layout down.

for a place as rainy as the pacific northwest I want some windows so I will also be increasing the window area and compensating for the loss in seaworthiness with the use of some serious storm shutters. I was thinking custom bent aluminum diamond plate bolt on stack-able units for easy stowage that could be applied before any blue water voyaging.

cheers
B
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