Newb with some preferences, few clues...

[erik818]

As you have problems with heat and humidity during building, and also might have problems to get proper marine plywood, I think you should consider exchanging plywood+epoxy for aluminium. It shouldn't be too hard to find someone with equipment and skill to weld aluminium, or buy the equipment and learn it yourself.

I have not buildt anything from aluminium myself and can give you no further clues how to proceed. I'm just guessing that it's fairly easy to convert a plywood design to aluminium.

I'm less ignorant when it comes to wood, and would hesitate to build a plywood/epoxy boat in a hot humid place.

Erik

[Guest625101138]

Originally Posted by Snorbitz

..........Back to my earlier question, is transporting a boat from the UK or Australia a sane option, for such a budget boat? Any idea how much such things cost?

S.

There have been, and still are, various mining projects developed by Australians in Kalimantan. Kaltim Prima Coal is one that comes to mind but I think it is now controlled by Indonesia. I am not sure of the current status of these operations but they were originally resourced from Australia. So there would have been some sort of transport established. There could be the sort of boat you are lokking for in that area.

I suggest you look for a boat that is close to your needs in Perth or maybe Darwin and talk to the supplier about getting it to you. I think the volume will be an issue. An outboard might be a proposition but a complete boat on a trailer will take up a lot of space.

An alternative would be to talk to local and Australian transport firms.

Rick W.

[Snorbitz]

Still sniffing around but may have found a local boatbuilder who can build to spec. Haven't physically met him yet to have some reservations still but sounds more promising than previous "I know a man who knows a man who.." stuff.

Quickie question - how secure, or alternatively how easily removed, are things such as steering systems?

I ask as I'm a little concerned at the idea of someone pinching it if left on the boat, but not sure how practical it would be to take it away along with the outboard (which I certainly would not leave)

Again thanks for all the replies and helpful suggestions

[Guest625101138]

If you are worried about the outboard then you should have concern for anything on the boat. A motor around 30HP and up would typically be bolted in place and weigh around 60kg. It takes a bit of effort and time to remove. Not saying it won't get pinched but it is not the sort of thing a kid could walk off with. It would take planning and some muscle.

If it has electric start then there will be a battery. This will be readily stolen. And I guess anything that looks nice could go.

I think you need to find a secure place if you are worried about the engine. It is not only the easy-to-remove bits but the boat could suffer damage if you cannot trust the security of the storage location.

Rick W.

[EStaggs]

I guess Im getting into the discussion a little late:

Would 22' be too much length?:



It is also buildable with a cabin, though mine is the first ever built:



You could easily put a drop curtain over the back of the cabin to seal the weather out. 50hp is what I am using. Is it close to what you are shooting for?

E

[Snorbitz]

That's a beautiful puddle of water you have there - and an entertaining blog by the looks of it.

Have done some further enquiring and seems a local boatbuilder, who resides in a fishing village and is apparantly a good builder, says if I supply the hardwood can build a boat for 1000 RM (Malaysian ringgit, that's roughly $300).

As ever though, the info was 2nd hand as he was out fishing, so the info comes from his wife. Highly debatable if that truly would include the plans for something such as a cuddy cabin runabout though. I suspect that would be the standard Sarawak boat design of long open canoe kinnda thing.
I also suspect it wouldn't include an outboard

I have a number of current questions:

EStaggs, or anyone really, does your or similar designs feature or adapt to afloatation system?

Call me a nervous Nelly but I do rather like the concept of a boat that continues to float if swamped

I know I can get a boat built of fiberglass as just a hull, no cabin but am unsure just what would happen if one added a cabin to such a boat?

Just how much weight difference and handling affect would it be likely to have? Obviously it depends on the design but as a general guide?

How do steering systems work? I was under the impression that they were just strong cables connected to a wheel for turning the engine, but browsing through some adds see they seem to have electric motors? Why? If one can push and pull the thing around with one arm directly, why would one need a motor with a lower-geared wheel and pully system? Can one just get a basic wheel and cable thingy without the need for motors or anything?

Can all engines be adapted to steering or does it have to have a "remote control box" whatever that is?

That was one of the worse aspects of the boat I've hired (twice now), the fact that every inch of the journey was done with one arm behind my back, directly heaving the engine around. Surely a wheel would be less effort and I don't see the need for power assistance? The other problem was a total lack of padding on the thingy I was sitting on, not to mention the racket. I can confirm that thing has a Yamaha 'Enduro' 30Hp 2-stroke, which from what I gather is a cheap Asian version of the thing.

Virtually sitting on top of the thing while yanking it around by hand is pretty tiring and uncomfortable.

And you get wet.

Regarding storage, it needs to be 20ft or less, partly for storing in my front garden (gated off and in a cosy little square with good security). Also for towing with my dinky little Kembara 4x4, which is only 1300cc. Apparantly it can pull 1500kg, so both boat and trailer need to be light.


S.

[Pericles]

Snorbitz,

Your thread seems to have been around the houses without you getting the kind of advice you need. For example Okume or Meranti BS 1088 marine ply will not delaminate in hot, moist conditions as per eric818's suggestion. It's actually made out there in SE Asia. Your difficulty might be sourcing the epoxy resin and the glass fabrics you will need. Here are a number of very informative sites that will assist you in your research.

http://www.bateau.com/index.php Read the forums and the "How to" pages.

http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/r/plansindex.htm

http://www.glen-l.com/

http://www.epoxyworks.com/index.html

http://www.boatsafe.com/nauticalknowhow/safetips.htm

http://www.macnaughtongroup.com/publishingown.htm

http://www.wessex-resins.com/

http://www.marineply.com/welcome1.htm

http://www.systemthree.com/index_2.asp

http://www.boat-links.com/linklists/...nk-25.html#top

http://www.proboat.com/digital_issues.html

http://www.panbo.com/

Finally, a video of the C-Flex system in action. This is just so you can get a general idea of the team work needed in boat building.

http://www.sintesfiberglass.com/id75.html

Best of luck.

Pericles

[EStaggs]

How about you send him some links P!

The Mertens design I built is USCG foam flotation certified, and can be foamed under the gunnels for upright flotation requirements.

I think Snorbitz needs to just sit down and read either Jacques Mertens' info on boatbuilding at his site (www.bateau.com), Glen-L's site (www.glen-l.com), or pick up Sam Devlin's book and look at his site (www.devlinboats.com).

Those will give a great baseline of information.

E

[Pericles]

Indeedy!

Spokaloo,

We have corresponded with on Jacques' forum.

The 3 sites you mentioned are really all anyone needs, but sometimes overkill works. Would you believe? I get the plans for LB 26, but I also like the DE25 long cabin so I buy those, Then he gives us the FL26. It's not fair!!!!

Of course, you aren't helping with all your enthusiasm for the FL26 and oh dear, it was me who pointed BQS in Jacques' direction with the question of an additional four feet. Mea Culpa mea culpa, mea maxima culpa!