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  #1  
Old 01-26-2006, 11:22 PM
Stu Ducklow Stu Ducklow is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
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Location: Halifax NS
My keel wiggles

I bought a 1970s-era Nash 20 sailboat, similar to a Paceship with a bigger cabin.

It has a swing keel which was stuck in the up position from disuse.

While prying the keel down, I discovered it was very easy to wiggle the keel left and right, i.e., I can push on the keel from the left side of the boat and move it enough so that the bottom of the keel moves 2 feet in either direction. The fibreglass hull tends to warp a bit as you'd expect when this is done. I looked all around inside the hull and found no obvious problems and no built-in bracing other than the formation of bulkheads used to form benches, etc.

So, is this normal? I wouldn't think so, but it's hard to get a feel for it as every boat I can find on a cradle has the keel resting on the ground so I can't sneak under and wiggle it.
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Old 01-27-2006, 02:48 AM
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PAR PAR is offline
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Your pivot pin and bushing need to be replaced. After 35 years it's due. Unless the board case can have the top removed (don't cut it) it will have to come out through the slot, from under the boat. This means being on stands, high enough to remove the board.

This isn't an easy job for the shade tree kind of guy. Hoisting the boat up high enough is the first issue, securing it so you can work under it with a reasonably level of safety, as you beat, cuss and sweat the board, pin and bushing out of the boat is another.

I'm not familiar with the model boat, but the board is likely around 400 to 600 pounds, so this is another issue. You'll have to safely handle this kind of weight, while under the boat. There are a number of other things that can creep into the effort, but this should give you an idea of what needs to be performed and why it's not an easy job for the average Joe.

Putting it back in is equally as enjoyable so this may be a job you should consider farming out to someone who can hoist and stand your boat. That has a fork lift or other suitable way of moving a 1/4 ton of swing keel, etc., etc., etc.

It can be done at home, but will require considerable planning and fore thought to get it done, without the ballasted board pounding you into the ground, like a Job Spike under a fruit tree. Give this careful thought.
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Old 01-27-2006, 08:38 AM
Stu Ducklow Stu Ducklow is offline
 
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Location: Halifax NS
Pivot pin is okay

Thanks for your sympathetic reply. The pivot pin was recently replaced. The housing for the keel in the retracted position is what wiggles. The housing itself is about 4-feet long and a foot deep-- kind of a shallow keel itself. The metal keel retracts into it. The housing appears to be a fibreglass envelope basically glued onto the hull. When I move this whole contraption the lower part of the hull can be seen to flex under the strain. I can't decide whether this is designed-in flex (like an airplane wing) or the first sign of a disaster at sea.

I'll post a link to a photo in the next day or two. Its very helpful to hear from some experienced sailors as this is my first boat.

Thanks
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Old 01-27-2006, 12:20 PM
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zerogara zerogara is offline
build it and sail it
 
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2 feet of play is definetely not designed in play.
Is there a chance the boat wasn't built the way you found it and some past owner tried to improvise by building a different kind of board box and failed?
Possible a fixed keel design that was modified to a swing keel?
Are there any stringers/crossmembers by the swing board housing?
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Old 01-27-2006, 04:19 PM
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safewalrus safewalrus is offline
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Location: Cornwall, England
Tart it up and move it on! Preferably for more than you paid for it!!! It's OK I'm not in the market!!
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Old 01-27-2006, 04:39 PM
Windvang Windvang is offline
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I agree with Zerogara, better beef it up.
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  #7  
Old 01-27-2006, 10:00 PM
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PAR PAR is offline
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Now I have a better idea of your problem(s). The case (a common problem) has come loose. A lot of manufactures tried different methods to build and install board cases in the era of your boat's construction, some worked better then others.

It sounds like you have a steel case, 'glassed over and tabbed into the hull. The 'glass part of the case has developed a leak and permitted water to enter. The steel then rusted, which causes it to swell and burst the joints (tabbing) open. Gravity is working for you, but I'll bet you can move the case, on the inside of the boat (with enough leverage) to the point of seeing the tabbing pull away from the hull. You can test this theory by pushing the lowered board to one side and propping at up in this position (canted) then go inside and check the case's attachment areas.

Other signs to look for are distortion on the sides of the case (swollen, rusted metal, pushing against the 'glass) rust bleed through in areas that don't seem to have any fasteners near by, etc.

In any case (bad pun) the case needs to be retabbed at least, likely rebuilt with the inner steel areas blasted clean and epoxy coated.

It's possible the case is just 'glass and the metal board had a 'glass sheath (providing a foil shape) which burst open after moisture ingress (another common problem) which usually results in a board getting stuck in the case (from the swelling) Unsticking the board can do a great deal of damage if it's good and stuck, enough to greatly weaken the case (hence causing the wiggle) What ever the reason, the case needs renewal or rebuilding.

The board has to come out, the case/hull mating surfaces cleaned back to good 'glass and bonded back on with generous tabbing to the surrounding hull bottom, bulkheads, floors or other structural members in the general area. This usually means removal of part of the liner (if one is used) and stripping out most of the cabin furniture. All can be made good, but you have to get at the joint of the case and hull to make this repair, which means much disassembly, but a doable job for the backyard guy.

Post some pictures (showing the board case) with the keel wedged to one side. The liner may be masking what's really going on. A reciprocating saw can make quick work of the liner, if you're uninterested in popping the deck cap off. A jig saw and circular saw will do a good job of gaining access to the case/hull joint too. Be careful with these tools, you can easily cut clean through the liner and hull all at once. Watch the depth of the blade (look inside lockers and storage bins to see how much space you actually have to play with.

These liner pieces, removed for access, can be reinstalled when the deeds are accomplished.
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