Looking for input on my cabin redesign

Daiquiri, I'm intrigued by your idea for the folding table and L-seating. How would you go about that?? With the table not supported to a bulkhead, is it removable and foldable?

Unfortunately time and funding will not permit anything beyond the main salon at this time, galley and head will remain in their current space and configuration, as exterior repaint and transom replacement are in the works next.

 

Actually cardboard is a pain in the *** to work with. Hard to cut ,hard to fasten and it doesnt hold its shape well. Thin door skin plywood, 2 or 3 mm is better template stock. Cuts with a razor knife and fastens will a staple gun and hot melt glue.

Template plywood. http://www.worldpanel.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Olayply

 

You should also re evalute you proposal for a lightweight composite interior. Composites are expensive , difficult to work with and by the time you are finished the weight savings is small. I only ever see composite furniture in exterior marine applications

Interiors on weight sensitive boats are construted of foam core plywood panels and Lite ply.

Lite ply is cheap and easy to work with

http://www.worldpanel.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Europly

http://www.boulterplywood.com/photogallery/wood names/foam core.jpg

 

Mike banks good point about the windows. I fully agree.

 

The solutions shown in the post # 34 seem very accurate. Good use of space, rounded corners, "L" shaped bench, clamping table, .... I would not change anything.

 

Cardboard is perfectly fine for a mockup. It doesn't have to support anything and is just a visual aid. It can easily be stiffened with more cardboard, duct taped to the back.

I also disagree that a light weight composite furnishings approach needs to be costly (though it usually is). If you use closed cell "blue board" from the big box stores (less than $10 bucks a sheet) and some door skin or 1/8" plywood stock, glued to the foam, light and cheap furniture boxes can be made. Place a notched dowel on the outside corners and a cove strip on the inside corners and you've covered the seams, made them kinder to the hips that will bang against them and an architectural element too.

 

Well I haven't posted in a few weeks as weather has slowed everything to a crawl. Originaly the head wasn't being touched other than paint and cosmetics, but I found the starboard forward most strake had cracked through on the inside of the hull. ( probably damage from the hurricane, or more likely the recovery after) Only spidering on the exterior, so the head came out, completely down to the hull. So now I am rebuilding the head and the acompanying flooring. I have found a few inches by moving the bulkheads back to contacting each other, instead of the gaps caused by poor fit and workmanship.

So now the shower will be going back into the head as there is now just enough space, for the admiral to use it, according to my new rough out. The decking will change in the head, alowing for a slightly lower deck and more foot room. I dont have any drawings but I have a couple of pics I will post when I get them of the phone.

And now the decision to remove all the monkey fur has been made and undertaken. Looking for ideas, and materials to replace it with. I would like to add some insulation, such as the 1/4-1/2 inch green or pink foam board from the local home stores, between the hull and surface. My original thought is to cover the whole interior in the FRP sheets, intended for bathrooms and kitchens. It's relatively cheap, easy to clean and durable. Plus it will brighten up the interior. I can't figure how to get any of this to adhere. The monkey fur was glued with contact cement, now peeling and making a holy mess. I am stripping this off with a wire wheel, but contact cement proabaly won't be strong enough for FRP. Anyone have any ideas?

 

Contact cement will be strong enough, if applied correctly. A polyurethane will offer some elongation for the different expansion and contraction of the dissimilar materials(foam and 'glass), which might be good.

 

I hesitate to stick anything to interiors these days--but I have wood to deal with not GRP. Instead I have light plywood panels which clip between the deck beams and can be easily removed. To these is fixed the standard aluminium and poy-cell rolls of insulation used under galvanised iron roofing. Cheap as chips, cut it with scissors, few if any nasty fibres, and weighs little and takes up far less space. It can be removed in a jiffy to inspect or re-seal the timber beneath--and has a useful sound-deadening property as well. Mind you--my problem is keeping heat OUT of the boat--not keeping it in.

 

Plywood for patterns can sometimes be had gratis--if you are on-side with your marine timber suppliers. I buy a bit of marine plywood--it is more expensive than exterior, but while I will use exterior grade stuff for forms and other stuff I tend to avoid it in hulls and bulkheads. Plywood comes supplied in pallet stacks with discard sheets top and bottom of the stack. These are usually three millimetre--and are often just thrown out with the trash. I found that a dozen bottles of beer secured most of them--I collect them when there are a few. Mostly they are undamaged, or easily patchable. They are GREAT for making patterns--especially if these patterns are to remain useful for any length of time. I have also found these sheets are often marine ply--useful for small furniture items.

 

Well lets update a bit with pics.

First up, what I found after removing deck and gas tank. The bilged deck and bulkheads rotted out, and stinking of gas and drainage from the broken shower , never fixed by previous owner. They simply allowed it to flow into the open bilge where it sat in a depression, and smelled like a sweaty fat guy.

 

Replaced partial bulkhead/splashshield for the cooktop. Cut to size and all tabbed in.

 

Replaced mid cabin bilge deck and new supports, and new battery box. Also into here will go the head flush tank and holding tank.

 

This is where I ran into unforseen issues. I dropped a tool under the flooring for the head, and while looking under I saw some spalling where the strake popped loose, probably from the recovery effort after Sandy. Out came the head to access the area for repair. This was not on the to do list. I under cut the crack, packed it with 1708 rolled up, then layed a couple of 4 inch wide 1708 tapes over the crack and epoxied in place. Then I drill holes above the crack, and filled the void with epoxy.
After that I then layed another couple 4 inch tapes over the top of the strake then covered the entire area with 2 layers of 2400 Triax and epoxy

 

Figuring there might be more, I then cut out the galley flooring. I didn't find a crack but did find a manufacturing defect. A large void in the starbord strake. So same deal cut, tape, drill, fill tape and overlay.