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  #31  
Old 09-29-2008, 08:19 PM
kengrome kengrome is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2006
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Location: Gulf Coast USA
Quote:
Since I would be sandwiching the wood between 1 layer of 12oz biax and 1 layer of 9oz chop inside and 2 layers of 12oz biax outside, would this be enough if I was to use a 1/8 mahogany.
Probably not. In fact I don't think I would ever use less than 3/8 inch ply in the floor of any boat I might build that's the same type and size as the one you're talking about -- regardless of how much glass I were going to apply to this plywood.

Chad, I understand that you're trying to use the glass and epoxy you already have to make up for such thin plywood, but I dislike the use of thick glass with thin plywood because the end result is that for the same overall thickness the 'thick ply / thin glass' approach is always stronger and stiffer and lighter -- and these are all features you should be striving for when you build a boat like the one you're talking about.

Besides, if you're going to use as much glass as you're talking about anyways I have to wonder why you don't use 'just a little more' and get rid of the plywood completely? Then at least you'll end up with a boat that's never going to rot.

Quote:
Last question promise. Whats is your recommendations on the ribs, seating, livewell and dry storage. Thickness of ply that is.
Since I do not build new boats like this I do not have any recommendations for you at this time. What you're proposing feels more like fixing an existing boat than building a new boat, and when I fix an existing boat I make decisions like these as I go along -- because the info I need to make such decisions becomes available as I'm working on the boat. So first you'll have to get the hull built, and then after you report the characteristics of that new hull here, I may have enough additional information to make some new suggestions.

--------------

Here's my take on this situation:

I have suggested what I feel is the most effective and affordable way for you to fix your existing boat. It is no big deal to me if you don't want to fix it, and it is fine if you want to build a new boat too. These decisions are entirely yours to make! However ...

Several of us have also suggested (more than once) that if you're going to build a new boat you should buy the plans from a designer and build your new boat according to those plans. There are many good reason for this, but you seem determined to forge ahead with your own approach. That's fine too of course since you are welcome to do things however you want to do them.

On the other hand, I can imagine all kinds of problems with this approach -- problems that I'm not interested in trying to help you solve because I've already provided what I feel is my best advice.

If you turn this thread into your 'building blog' I may check in from time to time to see how you're doing. I actually enjoy seeing people do things differently from me because there's always something new to learn when you keep an open mind.

I wish you the best of luck no matter how you proceed!

__________________
Kenneth Grome
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  #32  
Old 10-03-2008, 09:35 AM
crazybudjr crazybudjr is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2008
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Location: lake havasu city
hey i can help ya contact me and i will show you what i have im currentl just made a new boat flat bottom with lift pad 15 ft so on if interested lets talk.. i have pics..its also stronger and cheaper to use 3/4 ply wood on floor you will use to much glaas in strenghth versus wood and is cheaper to just put in the wood and lay a matt and weave over it!!and lighter...here are some pics.. and i will sell this boat plain no rigging or the hull only from 1300 to 3200 dollars
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  #33  
Old 11-07-2008, 11:59 AM
chada chada is offline
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Join Date: Sep 2008
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Location: Florida
pictures of the boat in build progress. Any finishing suggestions is greatly appreciated.

Chad




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  #34  
Old 11-07-2008, 12:02 PM
chada chada is offline
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Another side view...

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