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  #16  
Old 11-22-2009, 11:11 PM
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Yellow Jacket - I am completely unfamilar with the Dingo Tweedies excel spreadsheet that you referenced and also am not sure how to go about calculating edge turndowns. Please provide for information.
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  #17  
Old 11-23-2009, 04:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PAR View Post
He's built a wooden boat and now you want him to make a cored 'glass laminate? I think it would be best if he stuck with what he's familiar with and likely has tools, supplies and materials for.
I apologize, I posted in a hurry and didn't reread what I typed. What I intended to suggest was plywood, epoxy and fiberglass could be used, high density foam would be a plus but there was no need for plugs.
I believe that counter sinking plywood deep enough for plugs is not a good idea.
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  #18  
Old 11-23-2009, 08:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WoodenPontoon View Post
Yellow Jacket - I am completely unfamilar with the Dingo Tweedies excel spreadsheet that you referenced and also am not sure how to go about calculating edge turndowns. Please provide for information.
Here is a link to the spreadsheet.

Savitsky Power Prediction

So far as I know there isn't a way to calculate or predict the edge effects or a canned way of designing the chines that you are doing, I would suggest that you look at hulls that are claiming low speed efficiency improvements and copy those.
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  #19  
Old 11-23-2009, 03:06 PM
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I'd agree it may be beneficial to use some sort of edge or fence treatment, but where, how big, type, etc. I wouldn't want to hazard a guess.

I do believe if the after half of each hull is squared off, there will be enough plane surface. Then the question will be; is there enough power. A buddy with a 22' fully dressed pontoon boat does moderately well with a 90 HP Honda, but at half the weigh of this boat. Using the same multiplier and doubling the weight I get 14.5 knots (17 MPH) which is up on plane a scooting along at over S/L 3.1. Not exciting, but respectable and you will not make a career out of crossing a lake.
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  #20  
Old 11-23-2009, 09:54 PM
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Thanks for your assistance guys.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Commuter Boats View Post
I apologize, I posted in a hurry and didn't reread what I typed. What I intended to suggest was plywood, epoxy and fiberglass could be used, high density foam would be a plus but there was no need for plugs.
I believe that counter sinking plywood deep enough for plugs is not a good idea.
I read your original version with the same meaning as your revised message. We must be of the same mind set.


Quote:
Originally Posted by PAR View Post
I do believe if the after half of each hull is squared off, there will be enough plane surface. Then the question will be; is there enough power. A buddy with a 22' fully dressed pontoon boat does moderately well with a 90 HP Honda, but at half the weigh of this boat. Using the same multiplier and doubling the weight I get 14.5 knots (17 MPH) which is up on plane a scooting along at over S/L 3.1. Not exciting, but respectable and you will not make a career out of crossing a lake.
I am going to attempt to square off the after hulls as suggested. I do expect to have the strakes put her over 20 MPH. I was clocked by a friend at just under 19. At that time, my rebuilt motor had only about 2 hours on it, there were 4 adults on board and the trim pistons were not holding the engine at all. The flattened tail should help.

Yellow Jacket - Thanks for the link.
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  #21  
Old 11-23-2009, 10:54 PM
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If you were "clocked" at 19 (MPH?) you where up on plane. I wouldn't trust "being clocked" just too much to toss off a good reading. Install a speedo or use a GPS.
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