A junk in the making? Can I make a 65ft circumnavigate vessel?

He....he..... Nice that is nice, but the boat is Bruce Robert Trader 65, for me, I feel the name Trader incline to the junk main purpose, I do not intent do inter island trading, maybe inter-island shopping to deco my semi- stupid hideout in the forrest. Nuclear ground-0 bunker? just kidding...... thanks for the input.

Everything is interesting if you find a need to build, self-committed involvement in the project will be enjoyable and fruitful, a dream is a dream but everyday it get nearer.....................


WDH

 

AQnother thought

InterIsland bartering to support interisland shopping. LOL

 

Any suggestion on the engine and essential of the boat to endure bad weather and storm during journey circumnavigate?................ hell I am scared.

 

Engines

Welly, it's not just a case of what engine to use, but also the gears. A good old standby is a GM 6-71N. They're reliable and easy to work on. I would suggest a gear ratio of not less than 3:1 to turn a larger prop. Any engine that would power a 65 footer is going to consume quite a bit of fuel. The advantage of a set up like I just mentioned gives you plenty of power to buck relatively strong currents. I also would set up the generator as one with more than normal horsepower and a belt drive to the main shaft as get-home power. Another good engine that is used in commercial boats for both a propulsion engine also for generators is the Lugger. They are definitely tough and parts are readily available throughout most of the world.

 

Ps

In circumnavigating, there's not much of a chance to do it on one tank of fuel. You're going to have to refuel probably twice at a minimum, so program that in to the overall plan and take some engineering stress out of it.

 

"Any suggestion on the engine and essential of the boat to endure bad weather and storm during journey circumnavigate?................ "

Your best bet for bad weather is the ability to button up. Small ports are easier to find in heavy duty , and although it pains me immensly the Goyot are probably the best hatches .Or the Maurice Griffiths doubble coaming design if youre building not buying

An engine is hardly your storm survival gear , a small trysail and storm jib will keep you footing out & of troubble long after the engine has crapped out.

A Yanmar would be a fine choice , nice an light although parts are pricy. In the US the Kubbota is prefered for cost. As I'm in the states I would chose the International DT 466 to convert with a Twin Disc.These are 150 to 300hp depending on how their setup , the lowest power would be the best choice for 24/7 and easiest to keep fed.

FAST FRED

 

For the modification of the LOA, Bruce agree I could easily lengthen the hull by moving the stations a little further apart to make the length I want. Is 65 extendable to 100 ft? Need good loftsman......

I would need to modify the design hull for future engine change..... crazy me.

I found the Nissan RE8 280 HP stashed in a conner with my old usable lincoln welding machine....... (ex- rent to THIESS). I HAVE A FEW NISSAN PICTURE BELOW.

I have found Japanese made Truck crane, both may need work, paint, hosing, calibration, alignment and other nasty stuff......

Will paint all my stuff catapillar yellow for nice clean look.

Wasted good part of the morning looking for junks...... part. Found Nissan compatible TwinDisc original Gearbox X2 unit for sale in Samarinda, need to know the price and condition, would want to drive 140Km just to see that thing.

WDH

P.S. the study plan have been received in CD form without nice printed paper..... need to go to the Xerox shop.....

 

Befour annyone start bashing the engine I would like to say that I like the amount pulley's is great. You will be able to hock up hydraulic pumps for deck macinery, bowthruster, water pumps, generator and annything else you can come up with.

I can't see anny exhaust manifois, if you don't have them don't waste money on new truck ones. See if nissan has merine manifoils for this engine or simply weld your own.

Pick a light colour for it since it will lighten up the enginerom. A light colour will also unveil leakage on a early stage.

I think I would take off those inlet manifoils if I where you and clean it out.
Maybe even take off the cylinderheads one the cylinders where the valves are open and don't try to turn the engine befour everything is clean or you have to take off all the cylinderheads that could be a good idea in the first place

 

MOre Picture?................ pls comment.......

OK, Here are some picture of the milling shop in my shipyard , nothing much but can do my sleeving and railing of the dock land for the moment, still on investment schdule........ The future birth place of Trader 65?

Here is also the picture and small part of the Bruce Trader 65 ft, scantling done in German Lyold.

I was quite surprise the disk have no mentioned of lug or junk rig........... as promised, wonder what I will get for the full plan of pay and cry type of deal

 

There will be 6 of us(my family) + 5 pro crew on board.To supplement our financial strenght we had make arrangement with charter company. That boat is up for charter when we had reach those destination.This kind of arrangement set back is that we cannot sail out of tourist area.We intend to hop from one area to another..staying long enough to suppliment our income and move on.Thats one of the reason why that boat need to be big.
The 2 nyonyas is o.k..as long as everythig is up to the 5 star level..! Anyway this project are selected by my wives and children..they are given a few project and they had choosen this one. Paid guest for ocean crossing will be arrange by the charter company.
This are all the arrangement we make to realise our dream.We have no intention to be along side at any marina for long period of time.Hopefully we can complete our circumnavigation within 5 to seven years time.
The hull that you choose is good I believe but I think it is a little bit too small..make it 100 footer..looks at it from my angle..I want to tour the world..(not to just pass by..in a fast Trimaran)..but my budget is limited..so..come Welly..lets tour the world..and get paid for it..! The first ship that I had plan (but got to cancelled it at the last minutes because of my political and financial backing gone crumbled) are design by Austral..in Freemantle. 120 feet aluminum mono. It will cost me about AUD8-10 million at that time ..depend on how luxury we want it to be.Lucky me..the project got scrapped off on time..because Asean economy do really take a tumble one year after that..that boat is for charter..!
If you want to go to those polar area..just joint a cruise..lots safer and cheaper that way..
Anyway those fast ferry from Freemantle to Rottnest Island are real cool..love that.

 

Ari,

Really nice idea of co-chartering the boat, maybe I can see your schdule and hopscotch the area when my boat will be around. I planning 5 person tour max. , cause you strangely will pick up guest that would like to travel along for a fee, must be a reputable people..... no backstabber. (I will bring two Gorilla for the trip and banana is not their main diet.)

65ft is big if your lose alone.......... imagine 40ft + 20 ft container end to end and you will visualize.......... Anyway for 100 ft ship, I would really go for the famous N.A. that I have hidden their name for private reason.

I will last 2 years to the sea max...... 5 years toooo much sun. Places like Easter Island ,Tahiti, Hawaii, Honolulu, Califonia, Mexico (Incas Mayas Aztec), Canal and head for Greenland, Norway and England...... ( Skara Brae)..... etc

Gonna look for strange site........ Archeology freak........

The strengthen Hull will reduce ballast and protect North side cruising at night against broken Ice and who knows.......... see floating Ice. Fifty first date is ok , cant imagine having sex in near the northern circle... frozen popsticle

I may change the Trader 65 ft for another design,........... 3 years is a lot of days to get a boat built. I am lazy and forgetful of ordering material but I can build a tug boat for max. 6 month.

WellyLikeBoat.....

 

Will polish the baby till it shine........

Gonna change the alternator, starter, the pulley for polished stuff or stainless steel parts. This machine is not just any machine........ it is a workable free machine........ It was 2 month on Tarjun Boat (dad's) and was put landlocked because of fuel economy thing......... so quickly buy a Raybane..... bfore the shine hurt you.

Manifold is easy cause alot of this engine is used at river and sea going boat.... spare-parts and modification item are hanging loose in Jakarta shop. It is the professional option of cooling it that make me sad...... no idea yet, but will google.

You think catapillar yellow special for hot engine doesnt look nice? Try PINK? Any suggestion?

I will do the porting, clean that black elephant **** out . I will start from top to bottom, will wash everything in Kerosen........ stucked piston are deal with Coke..... diet of course.. clean..... add WD-40 and some Tribal receipe and I get a shining machine. Mostly is the seal, parking, ring piston, metal and ......... all will be placed back with Toq wench ........

That machine will be sitting on a table rack with 250w total of Phillip light shinnig through her, will be done during the night...... meaning less post and more hand-on stuff.

Yes, some part will be polish for natural metal look........ NO AIRBRUSH Drawing STUFF.

Have her sit nicely in metal frame with different material ( diffent density vbration cancellation) Poly flex rubber and nasty noise killer wall matt. The room will be 50% bigger for room and tool shed....... have a exhaused system to get rid of bad heat.

Heat + Sound = Lost in energy = lesser performance.


WellyLikeMaintaince

 

You are right my dear friend..about the the 65 boat size , Gorilla.., about the time needed to built one boat..Ya..I won't travel continuosly without coming back to Malaysia for a break..our intention is to tour the world..break it into a few leg..when the boat is on full charter schedule..we will fly back to Malaysia and Indonesia for Vacation..! We are able to do it by having arrangement for bare boat charter with the charter company..they provide the crew and everything..when it is off season we will sail it to next destination.

 

http://www.boatsafe.com/nauticalknowhow/cooling.htm
http://i-netmarine.com/fwc/questions_fwc.htm
http://www.perfprotech.com/home/marine-cooling.htm


The Truth Behind Fresh Water Cooling Systems

The term "Fresh Water Cooling Systems" also known as "Closed Marine Cooling Systems" can be confusing as these systems circulate antifreeze and not water. Marine Fresh Water Cooling systems are similar to the cooling system in an automobile, however, rather than a radiator they utilize a heat exchanger and rather than using air to remove the heat generated by the engine they use lake or ocean water. The heat exchangers are constructed by inserting a tube bundle of small tubes, maybe 150 or more, into a single large tube approximately 4" - 6" in diameter. The raw water pump on the engine flows sea water through the inside of the smaller tubes and makes multiple passes back and forth across the unit while removing the heat from the engine before finally exiting and flowing out the exhaust system. The anti-freeze or "jacket water" flows up and down across the outside of the smaller tubes in one single pass as it dispels the heat load of the engine into the raw water. Select the following link to see a diagram of a typical Half System... These systems are thought to be primarily reserved for people who operate in corrosive water conditions, however as you will see these systems have much more to offer than just corrosion protection. One of the main deficiencies of the standard "open" cooling systems is that they rely on a pressure balance for proper functioning. In extreme cases you can be introducing 40 degree water into the circulation loop that is attempting to regulate the engine at 160 degrees. This makes it near impossible for the engine to operate without some amount of cycling. Also with the onset of more stringent emissions regulations it is near impossible for the open systems to produce a stable enough operating condition that the engine spark and fuel mapping can be maximized.



HEAT EXCHANGER PROBLEMS

Since heat exchangers contain no moving parts there is very little that can go wrong with them except that they can get plugged with debris and that they will become dirty. They can also develop leaks internal as well as external. These problems will be covered in the next category of troubleshooting. There is also the possibility that a heat exchanger is insufficient in capacity and/or incorrectly manufactured. Those problems, however, will show up immediately upon start-up and the manufacturer should be contacted. In this discussion we are concerned with the problems that could develop during normal usage.

DEBRIS BLOCKAGE

The most common problem is where enough debris accumulates in the inlet chamber of the heat exchanger to prevent the raw water from passing through the tubes and pick up the heat. Since all good heat exchangers should have an existing de-mountable end cover at the inlet and it should be a simple operation to remove this debris. If the problem persists due to local water conditions install a good capacity raw water strainer in the raw water inlet hose. Even better is a good hull mounted strainer that will prevent debris from entering the system in the first place. Obviously there is a different solution depending on whether the raw water intake is through a seacock or a sterndrive.

DIRT BUILD-UP

The more long-term problem with heat exchangers is the gradual slow build-up of dirt on both the inside and outside of the small tubes that form the heat transfer area. This will gradually build up as a layer of insulation and is compensated for in every good heat exchanger design by so called "fouling factor". This simply means the heat exchanger has excess capacity when new and clean so it still performs acceptably when old and dirty. However, this "fouling factor" can only go so far and eventually a thorough cleaning of the heat exchanger may be necessary. The most drastic solution is to remove the heat exchanger and bring it to a radiator shop for a complete cleaning.

Make sure that the radiator shop has experience with marine heat exchangers. Proper cleaning should be a two step operation. First clean the unit with a strong alkaline solution to remove organic dirt such as oil. Second, in order to remove scale, the unit should be cleaned in an acid solution.

If a less thorough cleaning is desirable the heat exchanger can be left in the system. The jacket waterside can be cleaned in the same way as an automobile cooling system using any of the better radiator cleaning solutions on the market. Using a small diameter long handle brush similar to what is used for cleaning a rifle barrel can clean the small tubes on the raw waterside. It is possible to acid clean the raw waterside of the heat exchanger without removing it from the boat, but it is messy and dangerous. The ports of the heat exchanger will have to be plugged and the unit filled with an inhibited muriatic acid. Since an operation like that necessitates special safety equipment and creates a disposal problem we do not recommend that you try it unless you really know what you are doing.

http://www.fernstrum.com/pdf_folder/enhanced.pdf

Nice stuff for keel cooler

http://www.shimanofish.com.au/catalog/fish/products/landing.jsp?JSESSIONID=GpQs42dK1N1Dkp3xB6STMDphmxhVqhB71QmHCfcV88vGQRJvjXR1!2059339873&ASSORTMENT%3C%3East_id=1408474395181410&bmUID=1147781228765

Shimano engine? good winding, maybe for on board fishing list and rods option

here is picture of my vision of 65 ft Trimaran.

Will it be a btter circumnavigation vessel? I know you cant go to river too far with that big a trimaran.


WDH

 

Why? just sand blast it and paint it and it will look like new.

I think red would look nice but then you would have a hard time detecting leakage on a early stage. cummins gray is ok but look to milletary.
Catapillar is ok, but I would not like that people look into my enginerom beliving I bought a cat, but that is just me being a engine racist

I have used that on engines and is way more effective than manny off those exspensive rust killer boxes you buy. Ofcourse diet, your engine ia allready heavy so you don't want it to gain weight.

good luck welly.
I like the sound off diesel v8's