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#1
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| Good first scratch build? If I were to build my first boat I would want it to be........... 1. Something small and fast - like a fletcher, but with covered seating 2. Something very simple to construct out of ply and readily found, cheap materials. 3. Something small enough to handle in and out of the water single handed but have two seats. 4. Something which will putter about on a small outboard (2.5hp) but be happy to take something larger when I can afford to buy one. 5. Something which I can build mostly outdoors as I have no covered area, it'd be a case of build a bit and then cover it up with a tarp until I can do the next bit. Any suggestions Andy |
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#2
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| look over these plans. good company.http://www.glen-l.com/ |
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#3
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| Here are too sites with free "public domain" plans (from old Popular Mechanics and similar magazines). These were all designed to use inexpensive "hardware store" lumber and fittings for inexperienced builders. Many are not bad designs, and they can be improved with some upgrades to more traditional boat hardware. http://www.polysail.com/oldboats.htm http://www.svensons.com/boat/ have fun |
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#4
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| Found one I like the look of Ok, thanks for the links - I found one i like the look of - easy enough to tackle you think? I'm thinking i'd follow the plans pretty faithfully, except that I might use glasscloth and epoxy on all the seams and maybe build a slightly more substantial cabin, not full lenth, just enough to stay dry Good idea? Andy |
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#5
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| Do you know how to loft? |
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#6
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| I think you've chosen a nice little boat, although I don't think it's going to get up on plane with just 2.5 hp. But I'll tell you right now: in spite of what the article says, there's no way in Hell you're going to build it in 38 hours. That's OK; no one's going to fire you for missing a deadline. Take your time, enjoy the build, and post lots of pictures as you go.
__________________ "All one has to do is follow the plans and build in no permanent leaks." -Charles Minor Blackford, on the simplicity of building flat bottomed boats |
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#7
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| Naaaawwww keep looking. ![]() A 16' Jon boat or Bass boat design would be faster with less HP and a really short build time. Plus a heckuvalot more usable room inside. ![]() If you want covered seating, put up a Canopy similar to a Bimini. ![]() |
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#8
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| I'm not sure what you intend with; Quote:
Secondly, looking to make this level of change (thinking about putting a cabin on a double wedge flats hull) suggests you are well outside you area of expertise in this regard. Therefore, I'd strongly recommend you avoid making these dramatic of changes to a design. In other words, find a design that is suited to your needs, without major revision. It would also be wise if you build from a more current plan set. Those old free or nearly so plans from the 1940's, 50's and 60's don't use modern building methods or materials. You'll never find half of the stuff listed in the BOM, so you'll be making substitutions right from the start. The money you save on the free plans will be quickly used up in the materials substitution game you'll have to play. Look at Glen-L, Clark-Craft, etc. and pick out a set of plans, that look like mini skirts and go-go boots had been out of fashion for some time when it was designed. |
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#9
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| Ok, still looking. I'm not intending to get up on the plane on 2.5hp by the way. I'm just thinking of something which will work with a range of engines, just to cruise around on my 2.5hp and maybe be able to take a 20 or 25hp when I can afford to buy one. You're right PAR I'm a complete novice, I'm hoping to build with plywood and materials I can source from the hardware store. I am happy to use some glassfibre, like the way my mirror dighy is "taped" together, but I'm not keen on glassclothing an entire hull if I can avoid it. I don't have the space undercover for that really, although if modern building techniques have proven that glassing the entire hull is absolutely the best thing to do then fair enough, I'll have to try to go that route. Is there nothing similar to my little mirror dinghy in size and construction and convenience but which looks and performs like a mini speedboat and will take a large range of motors? I've been involved in model and full size airplanes for many years and have build many planes so I have a good level of general mechanical skill but none at all with boats. In the airplane world there's a very common little microlight range designed by Mike Whittaker which were specifically designed to be build with no special skills, in the back garden, using materials from the local hardware store. Mike Whittaker has a range of designes to carry one and two persons ranging from single seater fun machines to two seater cruisers, all of which can be towed behind you car and assembled at the airfield single handed. I'm hoping to find a similar idea in the boat world. |
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#10
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| So what about this one? https://www.boatdesigns.com/12-Flyin.../products/324/ 12' Flying Saucer Plywood build Length overall 12'-3" Beam 5'-9" Hull depth 27" Average passengers 2-4 Hull weight (approx.): 190 lbs. * Hull type: Vee bottom hard chine hull developed for sheet plywood planking. * Power: Short shaft outboard motor to 25 hp. Long shaft motor can be used if transom modified. |
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#11
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| The Flying Saucer was the first boat I built. Cut out all the frames in woodshop high school. the years were 1958/9. Great little boat. Mahogony was 25 cents a foot. Put a 35 hp on it and it was fast. |
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#12
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| http://www.selway-fisher.com is in your backyard, cheap, proven, and has a lot of plans which may fit your requirements. Regards Richard *you noticed? No critics this time........... |
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#13
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| I did notice yes ![]() Here's another question. Lots of the boats I've looked at feature "stitch-and-tape" Ply construction. Now, I may be asking a very stupid question here but has anyone ever used nylon tie-wraps for stitching. They're incredibly strong, easy to use, cheap and don't rust. Stop me now if i'm being ridiculous............. Andy |
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#14
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| If you mean wire ties...yes they are used...I have used them for the past 7 or 8 years. They are much more convenient and cause much less bloodshed than wire does. You can just slice them off flush in the holes and leave the rest embedded in the epoxy without fear of corrosion. I use the smallest (4" 100mm) for almost everything except the toughest to bend connections. |
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#15
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| Excellent That's great, I thought maybe I'd just had a stupid idea but looking at some of the pics it seems like a lot are done that way. Ta Looking at a little boat called a "power 14" http://www.selway-fisher.com/Mcup16.htm There's just so many to choose from and all of them look so much fun to biuld and use. Andy |
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