domestic toilet

respected all,
i am project engineer working in yacht manu. company. my client asked us to install domestic(non-marine)toilet into the boat. can anyone give advise how can we install non marine toilet and what are the technical points to be taken into consideration during installation. first of all, problem with macerator pump and flushing arrangements.
every help will be highly appreciated
thank you

 

i dont see a plumbing problems but miss to see clients reasoning.
good low priced marine toilets come in all sizes and sorts, gold cost extra.
when installing a new macarator have the silent whisper type

 

Must admit Yipster I'm not sure if friend Mechatics isn't pulling our legs...
A domestic toilet on board ship/boat ? Wouldn't that involve having a sewerage department team in tow laying pipes like buggery ?
Or perhaps his clients still think of the 'heads' as being merely a bucket to sling overboard when full.

 

The "Skipper" head from Wilcox-Critterden is better made than any of the currently available domestic toilets I've seen lately. It is said to be able to flush a trechcoat. Now thats a toilet.

Tim

 

The reason that domestic toilets would not normally be used in a boat is that they tend to use a lot of water to move the waste. On a very large boat that may not be a critical issue. Although another important issue is the sloshing of water in the toilet. In rough water it may be enough to cause the toilet to actually slosh out of the bowl. However if these issues are not considerations then here are the technical issues. A regular domestic toilet uses gravity to move the water with the waste into a holding tank or settling tank on land. If it is not macerated then a larger sized pump-out may be required. Also a domestic toilet requires a vent (usually 2") within a few feet of the toilet to allow sufficient air in the system so that the flow of liquid is not impeded by back pressure. This vent also allows for the venting of sewer gases in the tank.

 

I’m a great advocator of the ‘bucket and chuck-it’ method, although Wilma and your client may not approve.

 

Most tourist boats here in Thailand have domestic toilets. The only requirment is that it must be well above the water line. A little ugly too as un mascereated feaces will be visable.

I suppose a holding tank arrangment may be possible but thats just not a requirment here.

Flushing can be by fresh water on larger boats with large amounts of water storage. Or as I have considered a pressurised seawater sytem as this will not be the only toilet.

A domestic toilet bowl is a good size and a choice of seats is everywhere. A damn good idea if you got the height.

 

reducing the waste size to acceptable diametre would be the first thing, I guess superyachts use domestic toilets, the imp thing is flushing with fresh, so this either means sealand marine, which uses a pint a flush, (vaccum) or have big desal plants, I dont think this guy is pulling legs, but I would never flush with salt again , sept on a small yacht, the smell is vile
Come to think of it I can;t see billionaires and heiresses squatting on a pokey jabsco bowl, Nyet!! OF COUSRE THEY HAVE FULL SIZE GOLD PLATED , , WORKED YACHT ONCE, where the stupid woman wanted 1 inch granite on the heads deckhead! I just hope they did not come unglued, yachts name Shere Khan

 

The down portion of the exit pipe has to be enough to pull the flushing water through the 's' bend. Its a combination of flush and syphon.

I mention this because reducing the diam of the outlet would reduce the syphon effect.

Never had a weird flushing toilet and dont know why? It would be one of those that always left a bit in it!!

However mascerators 220V can be fitted to domestic toilets where the 4 inch usuall dia is just too big for a 'problem toilet'

This I believe can then be reduced to 2 inch. Probably go in a holding tank then.

 

Mechatics,

Show your client the pictures of toilets in the Vetus digital catalogue. http://www.vetus.nl/en/index.php

Pages 76 and 77 explain the reasons for using marine toilets. You could also offer another alternative. http://www.firstmatescabin.com/06boatingProducts/portableToilet/naturesHeadToilet_flyer.pdf

Pericles

 

this is the big problem dear, i explained everything to him as per technical view. but they insisted only non marine sanitaryware because some U.K. base architecture firm gave them all data for materials and that's headache for us.

 

i have just got a product name "sani-processor"(code:SAPRO) from vetus that can solve all problem regarding domestic toilet installed in boat. I wanna ask you guys about use this project for my boat to install domestic toilet.
thank you

 

My last cruising boat had one. Get this: I got it in perfect condition at a yard sale for ten bucks.
Never clogged, best toilet ever made. I cried when I sold the boat, and it wasn't for those thirty-two raincoats I lost either.

 

Okay, so in order to install a domestic toilet, it must have a vented tank (15-20 gal.) installed below the outlet. The tank vent should be run to as high a point as is practicable. This tank should also have a full cover for access for cleaning.
The macerator pump should be directly adjacent to the tank outlet, and the outlet must be large enough (2 1/2" minimum). The macerator can then feed another, larger tank (100 gal) tank as close as is possible to the first tank. That second tank is vented, connected upwards to a deck pump-out fitting, and also to a normally-closed sea cock and through-hull.
The first tank should have a float switch, and herein lies a problem. Float swiches aboard a boat respond to rolling and pitching as if the water level is continually changing. This means reducing slosh by baffling the first tank, but in this case, the baffle should be removable for cleaning.
Water supply to the toilet feeds pressurized water by way of standard pressure sensing switch coupled to the supply pump and then a normally open seawater intake.
Inside the domestic toilet tank, gravity system incorporates a float valve. This should not be a problem, as the tank is vertical in shape.
The biggest problem with the system will be odor. The higher the vents can be arranged to go, the better.
In addition, the macerator pump should be accessible for clearing and repair, and should have a manual switch to overide the float switch, and a ball valve and unions to each side of it. It would also be wise to install a second macerator pump between the second tank and the sea cock outlet.

Access to the first tank will require, possibly, a removable floor panel in the toilet room. The toilet waste should enter the side of the first tank high up, though a 3" PVC pipe with standard domestic toilet flange.
Intake water for the toilet should be filtered, due to the sensitivity of the toilet's float valve. The filter should be accessible for quick replacement or cleaning of the filter.
in addition to all this, it would be wise to install a hand pump connected (diaphragm type) to the first tank
parallel to the macerator pump, with valving to either the larger holding tank or the sea cock outlet. This pump should be located in the toilet room in case of pump failure, electrical failure, or other problems.

Alan

 

Pericles, your "alternative toilet" bears a disturbing resemblance to my coffepot! Alan, as long as you're going to all this fuss, why not install one of those neat Hitachi 3 stage sewage treatment systems? Pump out once a year, and no worries about macerator pumps. These are reputed to be incredibly efficient and compact, and the effluent could be fed back to the RO desalinator! Yuch!, Don