diagonal planking

that's the way my 14' Cedar skiff was. It was good till I left it for bigger and better boats.

 

Did´nt know the Balsa trick! Thanks Paul!


one gets older than a housepig and amateurs are telling one how the water freezes.........sometimes life is nasty.


At least for a unstable personality..........

 

I built only one boat with Aschroft system, a 40' motor fisching boat.
I used a lot of longitudinals frames, widely spaced sawn frames, and I find the system allowing a strong hull. I designed the hull in prevision of the Aschrof system. It has limitation, the hull has to be smooth without to much hard bilge, and no return at the garboard (Built down).
The construction was fast. But I will not recommend it.
The boat was intended to be neglected and it took well the beating and lake of care.
But I prefer double longitudinal planking. I don't like longitudinals frames they keep pocket of water, and promote root and decay.
By the way who want to bother with the Cutts system. It is a pain in the neck for nothing, but a lot of work. This is realy trying to complicate a construction, for the sake of complication. I don't get it. Must be masochist the guy who invented that Or didn't want to go home, and find an excuse to stay working at his shop.
Cheers
Daniel

 

i'm agree with Ilan , do it simple !! hull is only 20/25% of the completed boat !!! don't forget it , look on my blog , easy, quick to built, and very strong ! any shape !
www.fusionschooner.blogspot.com
nice project you have...
all the best !
bertho

 

Salut, un Francais parle a un francais...

Very nice page on the 50 schooner. We see "la patte" of Nigel with the smooth lines...and the simplicity of the main concept. 40 mm thick is more than strong, it will stand up any abuse. The shipyard is beautiful and the quality of the work seems on the pics outstanding, you are lucky to have all these good carpenters...how many workers? That went fast!
I have to make a jump in the Philippines to see all that, here unhappily it's the naval no mans land.
I have also admired the straight and simple way of making the mold. Who made the bronze castings? Impatient to see the pics of the building of the masts.
YES strip planking is one of the simplest method to have a good, strong hull and your pics are the best illustration.

 

nice boat Bertho
I particularly liked the photo documentary of the build process

hope all is well
B

 

hi ! Ilan, and all !
small correction link with this original post... the workers here have never built a boat before !!! that the secret and rule to work here and with strip/cold molding wood .! you have to be there EVERY day ! teach them, there are willing to learn ! that the nice point ! bring the proper wood/resin/tools and soo , and you get a good result ! that the cold molding and strip planking interest... long and repetitive, but no need the skill requered as for classic planking for example , just need to have some very precises procedures and implement them... under your own control !.
i decide to not use vacuum for the cold molding for this reason, do it simple, even if it's take time, you need to adapt your work process in exotic country!
(but for the masts..no ways..all under vacuum of course..)
kenavo !
all the best !
bertho

 

so what did you do just staple the living crap out of the veneers

 

"so what did you do just staple the living crap out of the veneers"

A tight joint is the requirement for resorsinol glue , lots of staples is fine , if there monel and don't have to be removed.

Of course if labor is cheap enough , removal of std staples would cost less than monel.

If the labor is not capable of really good tight fits , epoxy is required.

FF

 

Use plastic staples and save labour. Even when labour is cheap, saving time makes always sense.

Regards
Richard

 

here iS some info on the plastic staples and nails. They won't go in a pure, dry piece of HARDWOOD. That's my experience.
http://www.toolbase.org/ToolbaseRes...ContentDetailID=1481&BucketID=1&CategoryID=35
HERE IS THE SUPPLIER IN THE US http://www.raptornails.com/english/firstframe.html
Requires an air gun not an electric driver

 

When using staples, you shoot them over that plastic parcel wrap stuff, it is about 1/2 inch wide and very thin, the stuff kids use to bust into cars.
That way when you want the staples out you just rip up the plastic strip and the staples come out all at once (except the few that always muck up the theory).

 

Well proven method and already used by Gougeon brothers in the 70ies, but still time consuming.

The raptor staples mentioned by rasorinc do a better job and penetrate 3mm of Mahogany without trouble.

Regards
Richard

 

Yes, mahogany, no problem, but we do a lot of planking in plywood, and the staples are great for that.

 

ok so cold molded hull chine form bulk heads and stringers. you guys convinced me so. thickness and width of planking depends on the species of wood. I like the idea of BLack Locust as its pretty much rot impervious. its a hard wood with the following charictoristics and Im thinking of planking the entire hull below the line with this stuff. only trouble is its heavy. White Oak would be lighter but this stuff has the highest resistance to rot of any of the north american hardwoods

the real question is depending on its stability how wide to cut the planks for the molding process. Yes it depends how sharp the bends are but most of this hull has no reverse curves or any hard curves for that mater.
I was thinking 3" x 3/4 epoxy bonded edge to edge and layer to layer

Black Locust Amount of Figure
Intermediate

Black Locust Amount of Natural Luster
Medium

Black Locust Availability of Wood
Plentiful

Black Locust Available As Lumber
Yes

Black Locust Available as Veneer
Yes

Black Locust Available only in small sizes
No

Black Locust Bending Strength
High

Black Locust Blunting of Tool Blades
Moderate

Black Locust Botanical Name
Robinia pseudoacacia

Black Locust Carving
Difficult to carve

Black Locust Clear Finish or Varnish
Insufficient Data Available

Black Locust Color of Wood
Yellow or Golden Brown

Black Locust Contrast between growth rings
Ring Porous

Black Locust Crushing Strength
High

Black Locust Decorative Figure
No

Black Locust Density
Very high

Black Locust Drilling
Insufficient Data Available

Black Locust Fill before Finishing
May require a filler depending on the intended result

Black Locust Gluing
Average - Requires control

Black Locust Grain
Straight

Black Locust Growth Ring Pattern Plainsawn
Well-defined or Conspicuous growth ring

Black Locust Growth Ring Pattern Quartersawn
Noticeable or distinct growth ring stripe, ribbon or flake pattern

Black Locust Hand Tooling
Somewhat difficult

Black Locust Hardness
Hard, difficult to dent

Black Locust Hardwood or Softwood
Hardwood

Black Locust Harmful Properties
Non Toxic

Black Locust Interlocked Grain
No

Black Locust Kiln-dried Shrinkage
Moderate

Black Locust Machine Tools
Average

Black Locust Mortising
Insufficient Data Available

Black Locust Movement after drying
Moderate

Black Locust Nail Holding
Very good - Nails are very difficult to pull out

Black Locust Nailing
Tends to split wood - Requires pre-drilled pilot hole

Black Locust Natural Durability
Moderately durable

Black Locust Number of Knots
Intermediate

Black Locust Painting
Fair

Black Locust Planing
Average

Black Locust Polishing
Fair

Black Locust Pounds per cubic foot maximum
48

Black Locust Pounds per cubic foot minimum
48

Black Locust Reacts with Iron Fasteners or Hardware
No

Black Locust Sanding
Insufficient Data Available

Black Locust Sawing
Moderate cutting resistance

Black Locust Screw Holding
Very Good - Difficult to remove screws

Black Locust Screwing
Tends to split wood - Requires pre-drilled pilot holes

Black Locust Shaping
Insufficient Data Available

Black Locust Size of Knots
Intermediate

Black Locust Size of Pores
Large Pores - Open grain

Black Locust Specific Gravity
Very high

Black Locust Specific Gravity maximum
.69

Black Locust Specific Gravity minimum
.69

Black Locust Staining
Fair - May stain unevenly or change colors

Black Locust Steam Bending
Very Good

Black Locust Stiffness
High

Black Locust Surface Preparation for Finishing
No

Black Locust Texture of the Wood
Coarse

Black Locust Toughness
Moderate

Black Locust Turning
Good

Black Locust Weight
Heavy

Black Locust Wood Defects
Check (or split,) warp

Black Locust Work Notes
Requires sharp tools

apparently its a pain in the *** to work with because its so heavy and hard but I think I can handle it