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| Converting an I/O to an outboard Hi guys, new member here, I have been lurking for a while and decided to join and share a project I have been working on.This is a skipjack open 20.First I pulled the motor out: ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Now I got 3/4 marine plywood for re-enforcing(sp?) the transom (damn omc for macking such big holes) . ![]() ![]() Then I cut a couple of plugs and glassed those in. I also put a sanding attachment on my grinder and used that to feather out the edges so when I glassed it I would be able to build it up even to the back of the boat ![]() I used heavy fiberglass mat and 3 or 4 coats of fiberglass resin, and then used shortstrand fiberglass to fill in the low spots. ![]() ![]() On the inside I used the same heavy matt and resin and then filled in the low spots with short strand fiberglass ![]() Then I sanded and primed her ![]() ![]() Now here is where I run into a problem, I have the outboard bracket but I am not sure where to mount it.If I understand right its 1" of rise for every 12" of setback.My bracket has a 36 inch set back.So if I understand right I need the cavitation plate to be 3" higher than the bottom \/ of my boat?? ![]() Also here is just a quick patch I did on a hole in the corner of my boat. This is just how I did it, I am sure its not the way the pros do it, so if you are a diy guy like me, this is how I did it: The hole, I think the forklift hit it when I still had it in the boat yard ![]() Since it wasnt structual I just used foam as a backing: ![]() After that I sanded the edges and used short strand fiberglass because I had some left from using it for fill on the transom: ![]() and the matt: ![]() Then more fiberglass: ![]() Then sand to match: ![]() Then sand some more and prime: ![]() Damn paint shows everything, fill in more glass sand and prime again. Good enough for me ![]() Not the best and I am sure the boat companys wont be breaking down my door, but in a pinch I think not bad.Thanks for reading Mike |
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