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  #1  
Old 09-04-2011, 12:35 PM
Michail Michail is offline
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Converting a chines design to round shapes for fiberglass

I pretend to change a stitch and glue design to single skin fiberglass.

I would like to ask your opinion about two issues:

- Does the conversión look reasonably good? I am not looking for a perfect design for mass production, but a reasonable aproximation which would not change the handling characteristics of the original design.

- Can the resulting outlines be developped in thin plywood style boards? I pretend to construct one-off female mould and cut three long strips of plywood-like material according to the developped plates to be put into a female cradle.

Note: in the file for "rounded" design, I forgot to set the creased edges to normal.
Attached Thumbnails
Converting a chines design to round shapes for fiberglass-newtotal.jpg  Converting a chines design to round shapes for fiberglass-newcross.jpg  
Attached Files
File Type: fbm souriceau-sept-original.fbm (31.9 KB, 23 views)
File Type: fbm souriceau-sept-rounded-015.fbm (32.5 KB, 21 views)
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  #2  
Old 09-04-2011, 12:45 PM
Michail Michail is offline
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original outlines

Here come the shapes of the original design
Attached Thumbnails
Converting a chines design to round shapes for fiberglass-original.jpg  Converting a chines design to round shapes for fiberglass-originalcross.jpg  
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  #3  
Old 09-05-2011, 11:54 AM
Michail Michail is offline
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freeship developped plates data

I do not know whether the results I get from freeship for developped plates are OK.

The data:

Maximum area error: 0.000046 (metric)
Total area error: 0.001308 (metric)
Iterations: 5


I pretend to form the female mould from 4 mm. plywood-like boards, will I have a lot of problems fitting in the boards considering the results I obtained from freeship?

If anyone can help, it would be great.
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  #4  
Old 09-05-2011, 12:39 PM
rberrey rberrey is offline
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Changing a design is risking all the money and time you put into a build and you wont know if it will be sea worthy, or even sail untill you put it in the water.There are many designs in that size range such as Dudly Dix ( piepouder)? at $135 to Wissocks #77 at $35 down loaded that can be tweaked to suit your needs without changing the hull design. The cost of plans are just a small part of the total cost. rick
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  #5  
Old 09-07-2011, 06:59 AM
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LP LP is offline
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Changing from a chined hull to a round bilged hull shouldn't be a problem. However, with a legitimate set of plans, you should be able to present this question to the designer himself.

I round bilged hull from three plywood strips? No. Maybe a dozen strips and a lot of fairing. You might be better off using wood strips to make your mold.

It doesn't sound like you have the tools yet to undertake this project. Your first task is to study hull contruction of this type of build. You are definitely choosing the hard way to build your boat. Rick is right. There are a lot of plans available and you'll save the cost of the set of plans in the long run.

But . . . It's your choice.

Good luck. I hope it all works out for you.
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God bless the open minded people of the world. LP
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  #6  
Old 09-13-2011, 11:53 PM
Michail Michail is offline
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I think I have taken the hard way...

The issue with buying plans is that I will run into the same problems of unavailable materials, so that I will still have to adapt. I actually ordered the study plans for Souriceau, and I really can not get close to what is required in the BOM. And without understanding underlying concepts one can not adapt the plans well, so I would be going in circles.

Anyway, I decided to scrap the idea to cut the panels for the moulds to fit, and rather do it with narrower strips (using 2.5 mm board over 2" x 1" battens spaced at 12" and transversals every 16".

So now I am working on the mould...
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