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#121
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The fact that this method (spray foam) is used less and less by the industry should be a indicator for every homebuilder. Yes it is (or was) a widespread method, and it had some merits when done professionally. But it is flammable, it holds odours, it collects water after some time, it is a pain in the butt when repairs occur, and so on and on. And you are right, the days of it are count, it will be banned sooner or later. Armacell /Armaflex is by far the better insulation and the only one I recommend for both, the pro and the homebuilder. Regards Richard |
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#122
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Hi Jeremy, Considered that professional foaming companies (eg Hertel) use the same polyurethane nowadays on pleasure boats as they do on offshore rigs, cargo vessels and cruise ships, the concerns are overstated, resp. your yard may reason on grounds of a type polyurethane no longer used as the standard. When welding you only have to cut off a piece around the welding site, not a big deal – you’d also do that with rockwool. Our yard welded one day after foaming and the removal/refoaming was a piece of cake. Polyurethane is only highly flammable while wet, during the actual foaming process, but it dries over night (the old stuff needed weeks). Otherwise, fire precautions are the same for rockwool or foam insulation (keep water and distinguisher handy, somebody to check inside if welding goes on at outside). Is the yard talking about the old polyurethane or the new one? The new one is no longer toxic when burned, as a matter of fact, we were able to be in the hull minutes after they foamed, without a mask. It is classified against fire as B2, with a density of 50 kg/m3 and a ‘lambdawaarde’ of 0.023 W/mK. The new stuff no longer smells like rotten fish either. We did 200m2 at 5cm in an enclosed construction hall, and the yard resumed work as normal the following day. Rockwool plates are, of course, an alternative, but the insulation value is lower since one can simply not insulate all the corners and frames spray foam can. We also had our hydraulic/water/electric tubing in place, so the spray foam automatically covered them, providing additional support. rgds, Marina |
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#123
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The entire megayacht scene used sprayed PU for ages and almost all of them went to Armacell. PU foam does not smell when cured it "collects" odours and holds them for long. It is NOT impermeable to water as you can see on older barges on a thorough inspection. Face it, it is just the second best solution (if that good). And, just as a aside: we are way off topic here. Regards Richard |
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#124
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#125
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Steel hull isolation: alternatives to foam? is the appropriate thread for insulation. Regards Richard |
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#126
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But they are following the best professional advice, just not yours because you don't do sprayfoaming and therefore won't be the best person to ask! Yours and others dogmatic attitude that you know best on everything as pros and should always be listened to when you plainly don't know everything, is rather tiresome and diminishes the value of what you do know well and that doesn't help anyone. I only foam at the mouth sometimes so don't really give a shite if someone uses a different material. |
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#127
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Do you assume, that Lürssen, de Vries, Haakvoort, Royal Huisman (and me) to name a few, all sit on their laurels and count their toes? Regards Richard |
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#128
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#129
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#130
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| I would be interested in some specific name brands, spec sheets, references of so said "not out dated" spray foam insulation products. I'm not trying to be a trouble shaker but do have interest in some specific guidance towards what the industry has to offer. So far, from here, North America, I haven't found a spray foam insulation that comforted my apprehensions. Murielle |
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#131
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| But you do care very deeply Richard and you love to argue I can see that so what would you recommend say for a steel barge to avoid the condensation of a liveaboard life if you had to lower yourself to that end of the market? |
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#132
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| Must we repeat that every second page? Armacell / Armaflex is the answer today! And, yes I like to argue! Mainly with idiotic claims and statements. |
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#133
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I'm a Canadian, and Canadian houses are insulated with the insulation hard up against the "lining" (room finish), with a vapour barrier immediately inside the insulation. Outside the insulation (fibreglass wool, polystyrene, whatever) there is often an air gap between it and the outside wall. So I thought that must be the way to insulate my barge when I converted it, and I duly put in a vapour barrier and styrofoam against the ceiling and left an air gap above/behind. Boy was I wrong. It was probably the biggest mistake I made during the conversion. With an air gap next to the bare (painted) metal inside the cabin top, there was heavy condensation there. This is the because it is always slightly warmer in the gap than outside the cabin top, and the moisture just settles out of the gap air. The worst times were when the outside temperature dropped below freezing, and then thawed. I would then get drips falling from the ceiling inside, as the thawed condensation fell on to the ceiling lining and then found its way through despite my efforts during conversion to seal the ceiling fully. Eventually, I have replaced the insulation with foam on the metal, and the problem is solved. Also the barge is warmer and quieter, and the roof is noticeably stiffer (when walked or jumped on). And the foam seals to the metal, preventing interior rust. Thinsulate is interesting, but I would still use foam wherever I could (50 mm thick). I would save the Thinsulate for where foaming isn't feasible, e.g. in the engine room where all the machinery etc. is already in place. Avoid air gaps! |
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#134
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__________________ Hoyt "Lightning is very selective and will not strike crap." Wynand N "We Redistribute World's Wealth By Climate Policy" UN IPCC Official |
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#135
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The price is not much different from a professionally applied spray insulation, but far superior in longevity and ALL other required properties. By so far , I have seen only unqualified, biased opinions about boat insulation coming up from you. And why are you getting personal in every post? If it does´nt convince you that the prime Yachtbuilders (and our very knowledgeable Murielle) have choosen the same product I did, ok, so be it. But stop your idiotic attacks, stop to impute I would sell my knowledge as the only possible way of baking bread! When it is the best material known by the industry, then IT IS THE BEST KNOWN, no matter if you or me like it. You make a lot of noise here (as CDK already mentioned on another occasion), but there seems to be little behind. What are you searching, a fight, or a better insight? Go, learn about modern methods of insulation (there is not only moisture we have to care about), and work with them for decades, then come back and comment! ![]() Richard ...and again: we are way off topic! I know you do´nt even accept that, as you obviously do´nt accept our Forum rules in general. The fact that the OP was talking about a metal boat, has nothing to do with insulating them! Get that! |
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