Bow steering help

GRIND IT OFF REGLASS THE INSIDE OF THE HULL TO COMPENSATE FOR THE THICKNESS LOST WHEN ITS GROUND .
Filling and trying to level it will be an enormous job and add so much extra weigth to the boat .
Yes i totally agree the legs look away to low so its a remount the stern drives and possibly the engine mounts and who know what else . You have a major on your hands but its not impossible to rectify and make one hell of a boat out of it !!
You will need to get the steel pattern for the stern drive cut out and pattern for the drilling of the bolt holes and do some careful measurements to get the underside of the cavitation plate level with the straight line of the hull without the deflector turndown bits .

As i said earler who ever concIeved the idea if those turn downs wants shooting ,fit trim tabs yes but never mould things like that into a hull perminantly . IDIOTS!!!

 

Well structually if this is an add on, there should be no need to reinvent the hull bits and pieces. You should be able to find out by looking inside and measuring and looking at the foward end of the wedge and see if there is color differences from additional gelcoat that was applied after any wedge was installed. You can also look at the side of the wedge too for some measure of a gauge. Grind a bit because you know that you will need to regelcoat anyway. Start at the edge and work up even with a good palm sander, removing the topcoat on the verticle run from the hardpoint right at the transom junction.

 

The wedge/hook was done in the mold, definatly not an add on. I will have to wait a couple days until I can determine how it was done.

 

Post 13 does not reflect this.

I know that I can personally determine what you have in about ten minutes or even less without destroying the intergrity of the hull, if I was there. So I see no problem with a credible glass guy doing the same. I look at this as a glass half full at this point anyway. Selling the boat is much harder at this point for any buyer with a brain.