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#1
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| Bolgeresque Noodle Playin' with this very Bolger-esque type cruisin' shallow water boat hull design. It has a box keel and 7 ft headroom in the cabin along the 3 ft wide (center) box keel centerline. It is 30 ft long with an 8 ft beam and it should be trailerable. Lookin at 1/2" and 3/4" ply for construction, it drafts 33" @ 7 (long) tons total displacement (salt). I was thinkin of a Gaff Ketch rig of about 350 sq ft with a very forward fo'mast...similar to a Cat Ketch. This is to keep the cabin open. I was wondering if there are any thoughts on the thing...constructive critique so to speak |
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#2
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| Practical design. The hull is narrow but initially very stable, at the cost of quite a bit of submerged area. The headroom is such a plus, and it's obvious the sailpaln is small for the displacement, but as far as comfort and space go, along with beachability and trailerability, what could give you more? Great canal boat (Erie canal for example) and a nice livaboard coaster/riverboat. I don't know about the abrupt cutaway forefoot. Angle it and ride over what you might otherwise smash into. alan |
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#3
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| Even at this early stage she has a certain charm. The headroom would be attractive to me as I am of the taller variety. Will you incorperate a centerboard, or does the keel provide the needed lateral resistance for decent upwind work? TGoz |
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#4
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| early estimates would indicate that he keel is sufficient for reasonable upwind work. It is a cruising design...nothing like a dedicated racer but plenty of room for an iron breeze. Even with 6" of extra sole height there should be decent headroom for most in the cabin. I most like the developability of the hull for Plywood planking....a quick and easy build. The hull is a simple 20 panel and chine log knock together with ply butt blocks for the joints and glue and screw construction... if the ends justify the means. My biggest worry is getting enough weight to get it to float on its lines...it needs a very heavy Lead shoe (2-3 long tonnes) to get it to its lines...or lots of internal cargo and ballast. Steve |
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#5
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| Steve, Once you get her finalized let me know. I may be interested in obtaining plans. Thanks. TGoz |
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#6
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| Quote:
Believe it or not...I actually reduced the width of the keel by 2 ft before posting. I would expect 2+ tons of ballast to be a high ballast ratio on a Plywood boat of this length/width/height. The deeper hull would require MORE ballast to prevent an over abundance of windage...just to sink it to its lines plus there is more draft ... The hull is wider than the keel and displaces more... requiring more ballast. The idea of this is an easy build with a roomy interior and reasonable...not exceptional perforance.Steve |
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#7
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| Quote:
Steve PS: I haven't been paid for a plan yet...so I ain't advertizin' |
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#8
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| Headroom, simplicity of build (KISS), seaworthiness. I would prefer a small inboard diesel for aux. propulsion & a low aspect relatively simple sailplan. I look to live aboard most of the year, most likely in coastal North Carolina, though I'm somewhat of a wanderer and she would not be a permanent marina dweller. Hopefully you can keep us updated as things progress. Take care. TGoz |
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#9
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| Due to overwhelming demand on this and other forums...an update with the Keel extended to the bows and angled at the aft. Displacement increased by.3 tons...or 675 lbs. Steve This is my opinion...only my opinion and subject to the fact that I may be full of S!!t...or Rum... or beer...among other things... Lewis Boat Works http://angelfire.com/ego/lewisboatworks |
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#10
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| One thing that strikes me is the structural challenge of hanging that keel. Normally, the floors are present, but here there is a need to walk above the ballast, so I assume the keel box sides are carrying from two very healthy bulkheads. The box keel sides then become longitudinal beams. Also, being so low, is there some drag to the keel, enough to allow maybe a 6" deep sump area? I love boats like this. I would even make my own mild steel fittings and have them hot-dipped. Here's two scenarios: Owner #1 builds a rough and ready boat out of common inexpensive materials, and does so for 20k. The other owner worries about the resale value of a plywood boat built that way, so he spends 50k and "does it right". Later after 30 years of hard use, each boat is sold. The cheaper boat sells for 5k and the more expensive one for 25k. The way I see it, the cost-saver boat owner lost 20k and the other guy 25k, and all along the way, the cheaper boat was a lot more fun to own, insured for half, and cost half as much to maintain... for 30 years. Alan |
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#11
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| I like those numbers...the frugal yachtsman of the 21 century... Steve |
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#12
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| Quote:
BTW I am no pro and don't claim anything other than journeyman knowledge. I have 8 different builds of my own designs under my belt...7 of which have been successful and a couple of other which have been built by others which have also been successful. Steve Steve |
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#13
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| I'm pretty handy & require spartan accomadations. We'll keep in touch. My email is tvmdcaw@zoominternet.net. I love Carolina. Good people down there. The heat will take getting used to though. I to am kept here by family obligations at this time. She could probably be driven with a 10 hp inboard wouldn't you think? Gotta get to bed now, as I have an early morning. Take care. TGoz |
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#14
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| I have your email...look to it for further converse. Steve |
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#15
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| Thanks Steve. |
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| Bolgeresque Noodle | lewisboats | Boat Design | 0 | 05-07-2007 04:44 PM |