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#31
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| All the math is fine , but the practical setup is to simply use a band saw and chop them out of dimensional lumber a 2x10 or 2x12. Stand on one with a friend while its upright and you can decide how many to install. No math , just a trip to the big box store. FF |
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#32
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| There are joist span tables all over for building house floors and decks. It's not hard to get the numbers off the tables and reverse engineer something that is ballpark close. Sure point loads etc. have to be taken into consideration but those are details to be refined a little further down the road. Unless you're absolutley optimising for a certain criteria painting with a broad brush at first and then refining your ideas is a pragmatic way to go about it. From what I've seen more deflection is acceptable in a boat. But as has been said, jumping up and down on a simple mockup on saw horses is pretty damn easy.
__________________ If this is tourist season, why can't we shoot them? |
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#33
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| Quote:
Porta |
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#34
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| Perhaps he/she is looking for a certain amount of deflection, it's a mystery. However, no one has answered the original question so the simple test originally proposed would seem the next logical step... -Tom |
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#35
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Quote:
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And even if it doesn't for 9', I can always go with an alum I beam if needed. |
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#36
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| Well heres my 2 pence worth, wood rots, it will also sag, if you leave it long enough. Ally does neither and looks nicer, it wont stain from dirty hands and need no painting. |
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#37
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There is a neat little program called BeamBoy (Google it) that enables you to easily analyse beams. I have used this for the two examples you posed only I have used metric units. The deflection of the solid timber beam is about 3X that of the hollow aluminium. The example in the attached images compares deflection with a 1000N load - equivalent to 220lbf. Rick W |
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#38
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| Do the test at the store. No need to buy the aluminum. -Tom |
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#39
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| You don't need to go to the store, Just believe Rick Willoughby. He knows what he is talking about. Earlier I gave you some simple math to do. Prediction of beam elasticity is based on those fundamental concepts. Never mind the math, just respect Ricks input. Also be advised that an I beam is not necessarily stiffer than a box beam. It depends on the dimensions of the I beam versus the dimensions of the box beam. |
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#40
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| ok thanks Rick - so it looks like the aluminum beam will deflect about 1", and the wood beam about 4" - that tells me what i was wanting to know. Rule of thumb answer, wood is way more springy than aluminum |
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#41
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| wait, what wall thickness did you use? |
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#42
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Wood flexes more readily than aluminium of the same section. Springy really has a different meaning to me. I consider this to mean how far something will flex before it yields. This is a function of elasticity and yield strength. It is interesting that alloys of a particular material like iron or aluminium do not have much variation in elastic modulus but they can have an incredibly wide range in yield strength. One of my favourite materials is spring steel. The small round bar I use has yield up around 1500MPa. So it will flex a hell of a long way and fully recover. There are also some nice alumium alloys that are almost as "springy". Although they have lower modulus and lower yield, some as good as 400MPa, they are not far behind the spring steel in terms of ability to recover from being flexed just that it takes less effort to flex. So when you are considering springiness you are bringing in another material property. Now I can see you will be heading down the local hardware just to confirm the figures. If you cannot find the exact sections I have used I can redo the calcs. In fact you may have a bit of aluminium tube in the workshop you can load. It always pays to check the theory with some testing so you have verified it is close to reality. Also avoids gross errors in conversion. Rick |
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