Bass Boat Restoration

[PAR]

Bed and fillet the whole way. The cut out at the base of the transom does eliminate a big point loading issue and if left open will permit moisture to drain to the centerline.

[Cadwelder]

Will do, here are a few pictures of the test fit so far. I know everyone likes pictures. Any comments are welcome.

[Bruce46]

Be sure to seal every bit of that wood so that water can't get in and cause rot. I hope that you are going to use epoxy as polyester doesn't really stick to old polyester even when well sanded.

[Cadwelder]

It'll be ployester, never had a problem with it, not a big epoxy fan. I'll seal it all very well. Thanks.

[Cadwelder]

Well I have all the pieces cut out now, but have to say not real pleased with the factory fit of the cross braces. I made them exactly like the old ones, but they have nearly an inch gap between it and the hull. Do you think I should just bridge that gap, or cut new ones to fit closer? All the stringers and transom braces fit great, it's just the two cross members between the stringers that have the big gap so may not be too important. Thought I'd let the experts answer that one.

[PAR]

You don't have to be as poor a builder as the manufacture. Re-cut the pieces for an accurate fit. You'll save on resin too, because you don't have to back fill the gaps as much. The biggest advantage you have over the manufacture, is the labor cost savings, so toss some of your savings into close fitting parts and maybe some more laminate to help stiffen things up too. This is why your version of this boat will easily out last the factory version.

[Cadwelder]

I guess it's just sad to think that American "know how" isn't applied like it should be all the time. Too many think about the bottom line dollars only. I know when I worked for NorrisCraft (back in the late 70's) all you heard around the plant was "Hurry up, we need these done today" or "It'll be fine, hell it only has a one year warranty" or the best one was "Can't see it from my house". Also I know at the plant I worked in all the pieces where cut out with jigs, so they are all the same, meaning in this Astro I'm doing most likey the lousey fit on this one was the same with all the production boats. Sad, but true.

The only good advantage the factory has, over me, is this was all installed while it was in the mold so you didn't have to worry about any support or distorting the hull shape. (I have mine supported well) I could tell you a story about the first deck I replaced without any support other than the trailer. Geeeez, funny now but it wasn't then. Long story, but bottom line, it went thru the water like a seal jumping in and out.

[Cadwelder]

Originally Posted by Bruce46

Be sure to seal every bit of that wood so that water can't get in and cause rot. I hope that you are going to use epoxy as polyester doesn't really stick to old polyester even when well sanded.

Your comment about the adhesion of poly to old poly got me wondering so I did a small expierment. I took an old piece of harden matt (that came out of the boat and coated it with resin and laid a piece of scrap wood to it and set a wieght on top. After a few days I tried to pull it away and it pull the top layer of veener off the plywood. I'm not trying to start an arguement but are you saying that's it a long term thing, like years down the road.

[PAR]

Cadwelder, poly does "stick" to itself and wood, but in comparison to epoxy, it's the weak kneed, redheaded step child. Polyester can be used, but it has to be thicker, requires bulking agents (mat) and will be heavier then a similar strength epoxy laminate. In regard to wood, polyester's not waterproof, so it eventually lets moisture into the wood, which weakens it's bond and of course also tends to permit rot to eat the wood. Epoxy is waterproof, so these issues don't arise and since it bonds much better and is considerably stronger, the usual choice is epoxy and also why you're receiving some "guff". Don't let it bother you, the project is doing fine.

[Cadwelder]

Thanks for the reasurrance. It's not a cost thing (on poly vs epoxy) as I can afford either, it's just I've used poly for years and am comfortable with working with it and I've never had an adhesion problem. The strength difference isn't an argument, but I just don't feel it's needed on a small craft like a bass boat. 90% (maybe higher) of production bass boats are made with polyester resins, so I've alway felt its strong enough. It's sort of like construction of commercial buildings (which is my line of work), a 16" I-Beam is all that is needed, sure a 24" would be better and stronger, but just isn't needed. I about ready to start glassing I"ll post some pictures soon of the complete stringer system test fit.

[Cadwelder]

Ready to start glassing in some parts and I hope I can ask this question properly. Orginally the factory stapled the transom/stringer braces to the transom plywood and glassed them all together. I was thinking more in line of a layer of 1708 to tab in the entire transom and then lay the stringers in and add additional layers. The only problem with my plan is the thickness of the glass making it difficult for the braces to fit properly (probably why the factory did it that way) Bottom line, the only glass that actualy tied the transom to the hull was a 4" strip along the top, the rest all went thru the stringers and braces. Need the experts thoughts here.

You can look back a few post and see a picture of the transom and it's bracing to understand more of what I'm asking here.

[PAR]

Tab in your transom fully and notch the stringers slightly to permit them to lay down over the tabbing.

[Cadwelder]

Not use to running fillets so I experimented around a bit. I mixed up some paste and tried forming the fillets with a plastic spoon, a metal spoon, a dowel rod, my finger, etc and just couldn't get what I wanted (maybe I'm too picky) Anyway I tried using a piece of 3/4" PVC conduit and pressed it into the corner while the putty was wet and left it there until it cured and it worked perfect. But, the PVC being so smooth left a mirror like finish in the resin, so should I rough it up a bit before laminating over it or will it be fine like it is.

Here's a picture of the test piece (I used a black background so it would show up better)

[PAR]

What ever tool works. I've used tubing and if you keep it at the same angle as you plow along, it's a great tool. If your fabric goes down while the fillet is still green, then the smoothness doesn't matter a lick.

[Cadwelder]

Had a friend bring me a product called Laminex by 3M. He said they use it all the time to run fillets and it's better and eaiser than mixing your own. (He works for a pool manufactuerer). Anyone ever use this product?