Affordable seaworthy cruiser

Ballast-1200lbs-1/8" plate strips glued & screwed, with tanks 3/4 full - totals 2100lbs. Thought about water ballast to make easier to row, takes up to much space and complicates construction. Need to add seats on slates for rowing cabability. WT doors are expensive, might think about designing them another day, they are a necessity for keeping everyone aboard inside and floatation. Wheel is removable for easier entry to aft storage.

Cocoon for electronics, chart table, or someone sick or cold. Unified tabernacle & centerboard/hull & deck for strength. Use Bolgers ideas for enclosing. Need more study with hull sides in cockpit being 18", perhaps they need to be lowered to allow easier draing during a knockdown. Seats also might need to be raised for better helm visibility.

An ode to Bolger but, would be safer with more stores and comfort taking this to Hawaii than Berengria.

 

Uploaded. Reduced open are to 3' in the middle, with a 90 degree knockdown the openings will be at least 12" above waterline. The helm seat is also reduced to 3' width but has wheel position in front, access is made by going under & around but not to difficult. Seat would be removable for rear storage access.

 

Trilo style

Paddle wheel propulsion because less susceptable to damage from debris and shallow draft. Exact gear, rpm, reductions, tranny to be determined. Could have went with paddle wheel inset right under the seat and within 8' beam, decided against for excessive hull drag and construction complications. Wheels stored as dotted line shows. Might need splash fenders.

Wheels and rudder would have to be assembled/disassembled depending on cruising grounds, about an hours time in calm waters, patience required.

Dipping lug for low aspect and think its the most beautiful rig, if tacking is to much trouble go with chinese junk. Pointed bow rather than scow shape as all thats required is bending two sides probably just an extra day of work with the same volume and better riding characteristics. If any shape requires the extra length its the triloboat. Ballast will allow grounding anywhere.

Peace.

 

Not being able to figure out how to start a new thread doesn't bode well for the reliability or practicality of your designs.

You go to the general forum header that lists all the threads in that forum, such as 'designs', 'multihulls', 'propulsion', etc and on the left hand side, just above the list of threads is the symbol
. Click that and away you go.

Are you still building what you actually started?

You need a drawing board. You can get full size drafting tables with sliding parallel bar or the articulated arm ones for dirt cheap now as most places shift to cad.

 

Greetings

 

Fused Bolger "All weather house boat" and Buehler duck. Some marina's in this area accept only 30' max engine boats. Doing design calculations would tweak to get 20,000 as maximum displacement. 30HP. Over 5' headroom aft with 6'-3" for wheelhouse, head, and galley. Call it seaworthy if built in steel.

After looking over Garden's "tillie howard" (7500#, 3600# ballasted lifting keel, 555 SA, with 24" draft) and considering his recommending ballast down low for efficient sailing ability, for the previous birdwatcher type design would change the centerboard to 3" cut plate steel for 2,000# and bottom hull plating for any additional needs. Displacement of 7700 still achievable with additonal SA. CB better than lifting keel idea as 24" draft would still be to much.

 

The material a boat is made from does not make it seaworthy. Building a bad boat in steel may send it to the bottom quicker than building it in wood.

 

goodwilltoall, why don't you feresh us about your credentials for boat design and your sailing boating experience.

cheers,
Heikki

 

Wave wacker- There are many worst case scenarios but the one that comes to mind regarding steel vs. wood is a rollover/knockdown. As designed, wood will not survive, steel can with other precautions factored in, and possibly pop back around. On the lake with a wcs, friends might come to the rescue, if going across an ocean with this design than use steel.

This type could cross more than 99% of the time but, is far from ideal. Make preperations for hoving to, and strapping self to bulkhead if it came to that small chance of encountering a monster storm.

Kerosene - credentials: Senior member of boatdesign.net.

What questions in particular about boat design do you want answered?

Posts are a freely given to others where they can interject anytime to improve/critique and perhaps, assist others - especially the household of God.

You have always learned by watching and experience, then you contemplate the ideas and before beginning, visualize how they will work. You take evidence of what works and empirically try to build upon precendence for something new.

Others have said SOR is the proper way to begin, take it from the other direction and learn the reason's why things work the way they do rather than conforming to preset formalities. (One reason the US isnt competive anymore).

Have others working for me, and all have higher degrees/credentials as I never completed school and now know it to be a blessing. Overtime through experience, have handled the largest projects in Ohio, no need to advertise, considered the expert and go to guy for completing projects. Enjoyed it for 15 years but now just consider it a job as the thrill is gone.

Google Gary North regarding these topics: career, mastery, 10,000 hours
and find out what it takes to be sucessful in anything you attempt to do.

No, you wont find out what work i do. Goodwilltoall is a nomdegure (war name) as others have proven hostile during learning period. At this time it would be foolish to put at risk other sucessful endeavors.

Peace.

 

'Fusing' Bolger is almost an automatic introduction of butt ugly, and you've done a fine job of designing a butt ugly boat. Putting sails on and an engine in a Dutch wooden shoe would be a vast improvement in looks and efficiency.

It's 'nom de guerre'.

I'm glad you stick around even with all the **** you get from everyone. You're a nutjob, but probably not a serial killer or something. I'm guessing you have a big streak of martyrdom within yourself, perhaps you could name your boat 'High Seas' as a play on words for the Hispanic 'Jesus".

I'm serious about the drafting board and whether you're still building what you started. I think when you started you thought it might take a few months, but now that reality has stepped in, how is the project going?

 

29ft10 mono hull with 13ft11 beam is a bit extreme, around 10ft beam would be more realistic.

 

Goodwill, please show pictures and updates to your build.
What makes you say if built in steel is seaworthy and wood boats cannot survive roll over. Are you taking only about you last drawing or in general. With the draft and freeboard you show on that thing I am not sure it should even be in the water.

 

Greetings,

 

Cleaned up and lowered freeboard. Anybody know if Bolger intended All-Weather Houseboat to be seagoing? Think in would be lacking for full time sea duty. After scaling it would average over 2' more in freeboard, same for Buehler's designs when scaling to a 14' beam, some even upto 4' more freeboard and now absolutely sure it was added for big comfy boats at the expense of seaworthiness- design tradeoffs.

Think the previous drawing showing the pronounced safety lines caused others to think they where part of the sheer line. Mug offers enough freeboard without going into excesses and reduces handling and rolling problems due high windage.

With framing and 3/16" hull, the steel would amount to less than 12,000 lbs.-$7800 in Cleveland. Comfortably sleeps five, with short freestanding mast a lookout perch would be feasible. The boat is a diesel powered cruiser and sails are for two basic reasons, 1. Emergency propulsion in case of engine failure, broken prop, bad fuel, or saving fuel during good trade winds to assure enough during arrival. 2. Roll steadying rather than relying on floppers.

Build in steel, if in wood and with the wheelhouse high above the deck, it would be insufficient to handle crashing waves unless three 6"x6" beams were installed on each side from hull bottom to top of wheel house along with at least 1.5" sides. With either you still need high strength windows and ports which could be the most expensive part of build. Steel has 2" bouyant foam and the two additional watertight compartments should save vessel in case of busted windows and hull filled with water.

While thinking about hatches and watertight areas, an easily overlooked design feature would be to always make sure of being able to exit those compartments. Would never use a hasp as it could slap shut and lock. Never heard of anyone dying like that but it could happen in a steel hull, if built with wood have an axe in each compartment.

Short days and busy schedule limit work on current build, anyways the pictures shown are enough for understanding the building process up to now and will show more when cutwater and keel are built.

Used galvanized screws offered by Maze Industries for screwing strips. Very soft with many of the philips heads stripping even with drilled pilot holes and also many breaking off right at the heads.

Anybody have info on 5/8' - 1" hot dipped galvanized ringshank nails, would like to use them while adding the two plywood layers? As a last resort, would like to use bronze nails but, would they cause undue problems? Feel confident of being able to avoid galvanized screws by a clearance of at least 2". Know that pneumatic staples will work but ringshanks have much better holding power. Screws are out of the question.

Peace

 

HI
Have a look at this link for some ideas.
http://www.bruceroberts.com/public/HTML/FEEDBACK.htm
Regards Bruce