Affordable seaworthy cruiser

Discussion in 'Boat Design' started by goodwilltoall, Jul 31, 2010.

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  1. Wavewacker
    Joined: Aug 2010
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    Wavewacker Senior Member

    I can say that his framing won't even pass for house construction! He must have more dollars than sence. Hope he doesn't kill his family along with himself. I wonder if he tought about how he would ever get it to the water?:rolleyes:
     
  2. frank smith
    Joined: Oct 2009
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    frank smith Senior Member

    I think he is going in the direction or a dory .
    [​IMG]

    here is a nice one, already designed, and the structure is designed too.
     
  3. goodwilltoall
    Joined: Jul 2010
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    goodwilltoall Senior Member

    Greetings,

    Cleaned up epoxy off head, arms, and face. Stripping is moving along with 1/4 hull complete, figure about three more days when time is available and then two layers 3/8" Aquatech follow by construction of keel and cutwater. Hope to have completed by winter to flip over, then lay down deck and be able to work inside.

    Boat weight to be right around 11,000#, 50x8'4"x2'9". Did make mistake on lofting as was using 12'x8' plywood platform to layout previous 55' design and assumed starting measurement line to be correct instead was off and now entire hull is 3" higher then originally planned, still the frames all lined up on strongback and hull is fair. Will keep weight aloft to min. The additonal 3" is actually becoming a blessing room wise and still within good design practice.

    Questions:
    #1. Would it be good to use about a 4.5" x 28" SS shaft log and insert the 4" SS rudder shaft into it without having to use bearings. Thinking of putting in zerts and just lubing.

    #2. For dry exhaust rather then going up, what problems would there be by adding muffler, loop up to just below deck (add anti-siphon) and run right into bottom of hull? Can think of prop & hull turbulence, would it be negliable or pronounced?

    #3. Will have appro. 3-4" (5'x7'9" area) of concrete ballast bottom of hull at galley area which is 4' forward of keel cooled engine location, there's no better heat than radiant heat, especially at foot level. Homes with this type of heat have a plastic pipe called "pex" for embedding into concrete able to be placed in thicknesses as small as an inch. Rather then getting into a complicated manifold system, would like to have single series line say 30' long, manually turn on/off from keel cooler to galley floor when heat is desired. Can this work as described? The only weakness is initial startup which can take about 2hrs to begin producing heat, but once there its even constant heat with 90% efficiency.

    Peace.
     
  4. Emerson White
    Joined: Aug 2012
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    Location: Nordland, WA, USA

    Emerson White Junior Member

    2) You need to consider the back pressure on the engine associated with this layout.

    3) If you are using waste heat from your engine efficiency isn't a big concern typically. I believe that they use a special variety of cement for in floor radiant heat systems because the stress from a thermal heat/cool cycle can tear them apart.
     
    Last edited: Aug 27, 2012
  5. SamSam
    Joined: Feb 2005
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    SamSam Senior Member

    4.5" ID? 4" OD? That would leave 1/2" play in the system, a lot of clanking around.
     
  6. erik818
    Joined: Feb 2007
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    erik818 Senior Member

    #1. I don't know what zerts are, but why avoid bearings? A plain bearing isn't complicated.

    Erik
     
  7. kerosene
    Joined: Jul 2006
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    kerosene Senior Member

    zert is the nipple for squeezing vaseline (or other lubricant) in. But who knows what the plan is here.
     
  8. latestarter
    Joined: Jul 2010
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    Location: N.W. England

    latestarter Senior Member

  9. Emerson White
    Joined: Aug 2012
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    Location: Nordland, WA, USA

    Emerson White Junior Member

    I think he is planning on just having one tube/pipe inside of another and filling it with a lubricant of some sort.
     
  10. goodwilltoall
    Joined: Jul 2010
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    goodwilltoall Senior Member

    Greetings,

    Trying to post pictures
     

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  11. goodwilltoall
    Joined: Jul 2010
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    goodwilltoall Senior Member

    Yes, the idea is one pipe in another with very little play and then greasing, will it work? It seems foolproof as long it will turn without to much friction and the grease seals it up enough without water trying to squirt up, maybe in that case a boot around it would work to keep water out. Like the idea because it would be massively strong and the 4" rudder shaft can then have lighter material wrapped around it below the hull coupler for an efficient shape from about 4.25" forward to 2.00" back.

    From info recieved, back pressure would be light since it would be less then a foot below water line and same size as engine outlet. If it becomes to complicated will just go through the top.
     
  12. goodwilltoall
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    goodwilltoall Senior Member

    Brent Swain uses the underwater exhaust to the stern, in this case is would become overly complicated as then it would have to travel about 18' back.

    The concrete in homes is made more flexible because it only 1" thick and wouldnt be a problem in thicker slabs as it was done that way prior to development for wood built homes.

    BTW, photos are stern, forward, stern.
     
  13. Grey Ghost
    Joined: Aug 2012
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    Grey Ghost Senior Member

    Use a readily available tried and true stuffing box.
     
  14. goodwilltoall
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    goodwilltoall Senior Member

    Where can you get a 4" bearing and stuffing box?

    Peace.
     

  15. Grey Ghost
    Joined: Aug 2012
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    Location: california

    Grey Ghost Senior Member

    That's large. What size prop are you fitting and how much horsepower anyway?
     
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