advice on Glassing and motor mods

[SFC Hall]

I have an old 17’ aluminum Jon that I fish 90% in the river near where I live. It is shallow in places and the bottom is very rocky. Twhen the water is low, I seam to find every single bolder I didn’t know was there. I have repaired my skag once and have hit my prop a few times, to where it has to be repaired or replaced before I can go out again.

I have two questions… one, is it possible to glass in a three foot tunnel to raise the motor? Can you glass to aluminum? I’m kind of doubt’n it, the different expantion/contraction rates in the heat and cold would probably break the bond. But I thought I’d ask the experts… what do you think?

Next, I have seriously been considering a surface drive motor for the boat but the price is a killer. (I’m just a poor broke old Soldier who’s kid is in a privet college)

I have heard there is a kit to lower the cooling water inlet, anyone know what it would be called so I can do a search?

I was thinking of this kit and a prop that is made for running cavitations.


What advice do you guys have for me? Advice that doesn’t cost me a lot of money… I can’t afford a jet drive as so many want to tell me to get. I have to do with what I have.

[SFC Hall]

moved this to the metal boat section...

[ted655]

Where did you go? Did you want help?
I foung nothing on metal boat area.

[SFC Hall]

Originally Posted by ted655

Where did you go? Did you want help?
I foung nothing on metal boat area.

well I thought I moved it over there... but yes, I could use some help. I am in the planning stage right now.

I am currently in Iraq, I have quite busy days (why I haven't been on) and very slow days with nothing to do but think...

So I was thinking of ways to save me prop. I have been told that making a tunnel in a boat that wasn't designed for in and to do in an aluminum boat are both very bad ideas.

do you have any suggestions for me? (my wife had a good one last year - "go slower" - but that never seems to work out for me )

[ted655]

First off; Happy Thanksgiving & thank you.
"Somehow" get a Pro Drive. You will never regret it. Tjey are made near me. I've seen them ALL @ the boat shows, Prodrive is the best. I've also ridden in boats equipped with them. OH my gosh, impressive at all levels.
http://www.prodriveoutboards.com/motors.htm
Gator Tail is also good
http://www.gator-tail.com/
.
I live in a swamp, so I also run over things regularly. 1 of my boats (20' aluminum crawfish skiff), has a flat bottom with 2 channels welded aft. They are spaced 2" apart. This allows a skeg to be inserted into them. A tab with a hole is welded on the transom & aligns with a hole in the skeg. A bolt is dropped throubh the holes & prevents the skeg from sliding back out. It works, hitting things first & allowing a reaction time so the motor can be trimmed up. Turning & backing performance is terrible when this skeg is slid in under the boat, BUT, it works.
My other boat (a 25' super jon) has a hrdraulic jack plate on it. You are right there are nosecone kits available to lower water pump pickup. Bob's Machine shop is a good place to learn more.
http://www.bobsmachine.com/
Yes you can glass (with proper prep) to aluminum. Soda blast or sand blast, then apply BEFORE self oxidation begins.
The tunnel hulls used in the Florida flats are basically jon boats. I would Google for plans for homemade tunnel boats to get ideas for you.
.
The bottom line is, any of these are going to cost $$$$! Do a fair cost annalist's & you will find a surface drive IS the best value. It sounds like you use your boat alot. You deserve it my man !!!!

[ted655]

Here are my swamp runners, if you have broadband.

[SFC Hall]

thank you! the water pickup is perfect! that and and a prop designed to run in calvataion should allow me to bring the motor up to where is only the skag and part of the blade will hangs down under the boat. with a tunnel, I could bring it up even more.