What is the Easiest Boat Building Method for One Person?

[uncookedlentil]

I would consider strip plank cedar. easy but boring prep of strips, cut your scarfs ahead of time, 12'/ 4 meter strips should be easy to deal with.

[ecflyer]

I am just finishing up a cold molded (ply on stringers) 50' monohull and I did all the work myself. It was easy; however, I would think a strip planked method would be slightly easier. You need to be more creative when accomplishing larger tasks by using scrap materials or other tools to help out. Example: when building bulkheads, glue and assemble them in place one pre-cut sheet at a time. If you find it too difficult to measure everything perfect, then build a solid bulkhead and cut out openings (doors/windows) later. You need to provide some think time in advance of your next little job.

Good Luck
Earl

Originally Posted by CatBuilder

Exactly. This does clarify my question.

The Kurt Hughes Cylinder Mold method required me to move 48' (16m) x 8' (2.5m) curved pieces of plywood approximately 12mm thick, weighing around 600lbs (280Kg). I had to move these things a dozen times. Later, it involved rolling hulls, lifting a large bridgedeck into place, etc...

It also required teams to pour the keels, install the bulkheads and stringers, etc...

So... it was not possible for me to build my boat myself.

I was after exactly what you said above... what method can be done by one person, physically?

Building a smaller boat is a cop out and a BS answer. The size of a boat is determined by your needs on the water. You wouldn't even be building a boat (unless you're really into building boats) if you didn't have an exact spec to deliver at the end of the project. a 45' boat is the size boat I need for work. That's what I need to have.

Like PAR and others mentioned already, Strip planking is the method for a one man project of the size you went for. The so often choosen S+G is not saving any time or cost at that size, but gives a weaker hull. And the handling of ply sheets is definetively a task for one person.

Regards
Richard

[CatBuilder]

This is a dated thread. I chose a female form and thermoforming of Corecell foam. It is more difficult to move half hulls around, but glassing on flat surfaces is a huge advantage. I have shop cranes to move pieces around.

Originally Posted by CatBuilder

This is a dated thread. I chose a female form and thermoforming of Corecell foam. It is more difficult to move half hulls around, but glassing on flat surfaces is a huge advantage. I have shop cranes to move pieces around.

Completely different bask of fish, of course. And sorry, I was not aware of the date you started the thread. Anyway it is of a general interest I guess.

But your project was not a homebuilders project anyway, but a professional task of the higher risk to start with.

Luckily you are one of the rare examples of people who know their capabilities. So you may come out with success where others would definetively fail.

Anyway, you asked for the easiest method, that was answered. The one you have choosen is neither easy, nor good, but may fit your requirement.

A classical strip planking method would have given you easier control, better handling and a more reliable result for the same effort and cost. And it would last for ages without worries.
I doubt the method you have choosen will last the test of time.
But that is all your personal choice, of course. You know from all our private correspondence that I back your task as much I can (and you know my bias against core foam), so what can anyone tell you here?

Easiest is strip planking, best is cold moulding, simplest is S+G when we talk wooden composites. Fastest is FRP in a existing female mould, followed by CnC plate metal weld on CN cut frames, then FRP on a male mold. The latter is impossible to achieve by a homebuilder. (when the result has to be acceptable)
The next two are the classical woody (living forever and a week), and the famous Ferrocement junk. The former can, after four generations, replace each and every single part as often as the rot has eaten it, for generations on end.
The latter IS a four generation task.
You need the nerv of one generation to build it, the other to come up to hull speed, the third to stand the critics of the public, and at least the patience of the fourth to give it away. (nobody gives you a **** for a FC junk)........


ähh....
what was your question?

Regards
Richard

[Pericles]

I have access to as many sheets of 8' x 4' PIR as I want. They are 5.5 inches thick, or even thicker. Up to 9 inches I believe and they are not expensive. They are so thick that they stand unsupported on their edges & they're £30 a 5.5" sheet in the UK.

http://www.aandainsulationservices.com/

Cut them to shape, tack them together with 10 inch skewers & silicone sealant and and a free standing Bolger Old Shoe could be assembled in a couple of hours, like Lego. Cover with glass cloth and epoxy and hey presto, instant square boat. NB Remove the skewers before launching!

http://www.ace.net.au/schooner/sbhome.htm#menu

Now that's easy. Small cats with solid hulls could be roughed out with a bread knife. Not pretty, but cheap as chips. They won't sink either! Trust me, I'm a liar.

BTW, I'm not trying to flog gash PIR. I just think they're a great resource.

How slab sided can you be?

http://www.ace.net.au/schooner/fms.htm#start