what cloth to use??

[Reelalure]

Hello Gang,
I am new to posting but have been reading for a couple yrs. now.
I have been working on rebuilding a wasque 32 for 1.5 yrs now, Total resto down to the hull. I am ready for the pilot house and have questions on what oz. cloth to use over the okuome ply on cabin top, pilot house top and side's.
I am more a traditional boat builder as this is what i have been involved in over the past 40 yrs. So when it comes to composites and glass i am not up to date on whats new and being used now.
There are some rounded edges an shapes so i am looking for cloth that will work with the tumblehome on side's of pilot house and curve of top and around window area.
I know there are foam core's and such but that is not what i am looking for in this project. The boat has been rebuilt with all mahogany and okuome ply, west systems epoxy. The issue i have is the hot florida sun beating on the top of the house and cabin.
Thank you all for your time, Ken

[Hunter25]

6 or 8 ounce cloth will conform nice and have some protection

[Reelalure]

Thank you for your reply,
I have used 10 oz. on the rails and 20 oz. on the deck.
Where the seams are from pilot house to cabin top or pilot house sides to top rail do you think i should tape or double up the seams for added strength ?? Thanks again. Ken

[rasorinc]

Double tape up the seams is always a good idea, corners also.. 6 to 8 oz is all you need for being a total water proof covering with epoxy paint over for UV protection.

[Hunter25]

What strength, it is just a cloth covering to water proof and keep a dropped wrench from making a problem with the wood. The lighter the cloth, the easier it will be to conform to the surface. Doubling the corners or seams is more work then needed unless you are going to throw hammers at your cabin sides. Allow for over lap at the seams if you want, but bothering with tape and more cloth seems necessary.

[missinginaction]

I'm in agreement with Hunter on the 6/8 oz idea. I'd even consider 4 oz on the cabin sides, after all you're not walking on them.

WIth the strong sun (UV) it seems to me that you might be more concerned with paint than glass/epoxy. You're trying to manage the UV here. I'd recommend one of the 2 part polyurethanes. I've used and am using Interlux Perfection on my old Silverton. I followed the directions TO THE LETTER and couldn't be more pleased with the results. Perfection works great over epoxy/glass with the appropriate Epoxy Prime Coat.

Regards,

MIA

Originally Posted by Hunter25

What strength, it is just a cloth covering to water proof and keep a dropped wrench from making a problem with the wood. The lighter the cloth, the easier it will be to conform to the surface. Doubling the corners or seams is more work then needed unless you are going to throw hammers at your cabin sides. Allow for over lap at the seams if you want, but bothering with tape and more cloth seems necessary.

A real good advice.

4 oz is sufficient. The final varnish or (better) paint cover to make it UV protected is the more important issue.

(and MIA is always right) .............. he has done it!...........

regards
Richard

[missinginaction]

(and MIA is always right) ..............

Well, I don't know about the "always" part........I just try not to open my mouth unless I have half a chance of making a difference

It was nice of you to say Richard, coming from you a real compliment. Thanks

MIA

[Steve W]

I have a preference for dynel which is only about 4 oz ,it simply drapes better than glass on the sometimes complex shapes around cabins etc,it also stands up better to the impact of dropped tools winch handles etc as well as abrasion when compared to similar weight fabrics,it does consume more epoxy which is a good thing as a resin rich layer is what you are after to protect the plywood and provide a stable base for your paint system.
Steve.

Originally Posted by Steve W

I have a preference for dynel which is only about 4 oz ,it simply drapes better than glass on the sometimes complex shapes around cabins etc,it also stands up better to the impact of dropped tools winch handles etc as well as abrasion when compared to similar weight fabrics,it does consume more epoxy which is a good thing as a resin rich layer is what you are after to protect the plywood and provide a stable base for your paint system.
Steve.

Right in general.

But Dynel sucks thre times the resin glass would. That is a advantage in some applications, but here?

I would recommend a simple 4 OZ glass fabric, well saturated, three times covered, and painted.

Originally Posted by missinginaction

Well, I don't know about the "always" part........I just try not to open my mouth unless I have half a chance of making a difference

It was nice of you to say Richard, coming from you a real compliment. Thanks

MIA

You know "always" means a lot?

But I said always, and mean it! You know what you are talking, you have done it, or keep your mouth shut. I adore you for that! Yes, adore!


Regards
Richard

[tunnels]

Light glass like 6 oz and 8 oz is like tissue paper and just glass reinforces the resin coat over the wood , The strength it gives to a job is next to nothing !!

But 10 OZ AND 12 OZ on the other hand will add some strength to your job and help hide and hold those joins that have a habit of showing up in a few years time .
Good luck !!

[Hunter25]

10 and 12 ounce cloths take a lot more resin to wet out then the light cloths and on vertical cabin sides not much of a point to be made for the additional material and cost. Dynel is great for decks, but completely unnecessary for cabin sides.

[missinginaction]

Hunter? Take a look at that last sentence you just wrote. Is that what you meant to say?

MIA

[Hunter25]

Thanks, MIA

[Reelalure]

Thank you for all your reply's, i have a good amount of 8 oz satin laying around so i may use that up with west systems epoxy.
I have also been spraying the perfection paint and with great results also.
Thank you again for your help, Ken