What chemical removes cured 3M-5200

[ecflyer]

Does anyone have experience removing 3M-5200 sealant that is fully cured. I need to remove it off my tempered glass and will try a razor blade on the face side; however, I need a chemical to clean the uneven edges of the glass. I cannot use any type mechanical devices as they will damage the tempered glass.

Have a Spiffy G'Day
Earl

[keysdisease]

There is a product called anti-bond which claims to remove 5200. I read a few forum discussions about it and it seems to be effective, but you need to have patience and give it time. I have no personal experience with it.

http://www.bluecoraltowers.com/ACCES...ve-remover.htm

Steve

[Submarine Tom]

From my experience: dynamite, C-4 or any other explosive.

Rubber/latex gloves also work well.

-Tom

[KnottyBuoyz]

Heat up the blade of a scraper and give that a try.

[marshmat]

3M's advice about removing the stuff (see the MSDS for details) is:

Pour isocyanate decontaminant solution (90% water, 8% concentrated ammonia, 2% detergent) on spill and allow to react for 10 minutes. Or pour water on spill and allow to react for more than 30 minutes. Cover with absorbent material.

It looks like this only works while it's still uncured. Once it's set, a sharp knife is the best bet. If you can find a solvent that attacks urethane polymers but not glass, that might work.
Without knowing who makes "Anti-Bond" or what chemistry it's based on, I can't offer much other than to say you may as well try it.

Heat kills 5200 but I don't know about heating that glass. The advice 3M gave about removing uncured works not as well as denatured alcohol -5200 cleans up like school glue with alcohol before it is cured. The anti-bond has to get under the 5200.

[kaamaman]

West Marine has this.

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...4804&langId=-1

[ecflyer]

From my experience: dynamite, C-4 or any other explosive.

Rubber/latex gloves also work well.

Submarine Tom, I just don't know what we would all do w/o your words of wisdom. You might be a bull in a china shop, but you definitely know how to "Git-R-Done".

[Submarine Tom]

Sorry ecflyer, I didn't read your post very well.

A razor scraper should do it.

-Tom

[PAR]

I've removed it hundreds of times and it has to be abated. A belt sander is quite effective with 24 grit. Chemicals just soften it up, a knife leaves a film. The only real way to insure it's not there is to grind it off.

[CDK]

I concur with PAR.
Remove as much as possible mechanically, then apply a strong alkaline solution like paint stripper or sink cleaner to soften up the residual film and remove that with a Brillo pad.
Wear gloves!

[Typhoon]

I used one of those nylon abrasive wheels to remove some Sikaflex once, it was quite effective. You know the wheels, look like sort of a hard sea sponge. It tended to rip small chunks off the Sika without heating it and making that horrible, acrid blue smoke. And all you had to clean up was a black dust.

[CDK]

Originally Posted by Typhoon

I used one of those nylon abrasive wheels to remove some Sikaflex once, it was quite effective. You know the wheels, look like sort of a hard sea sponge. It tended to rip small chunks off the Sika without heating it and making that horrible, acrid blue smoke. And all you had to clean up was a black dust.

I think you mean 3M Schotch-brite . Is that correct?

[indianbayjoe]

Don't use any of the chemical ideas if you still want the area to continue to be sealed which was what it was probably put there for. They will seep into areas you don't want them. Mechanical means are the best and you won't scratch the tempered glass with a razor and those rubber wheels made to remove decals might work too. I think there called an astro wheel

[Typhoon]

Originally Posted by CDK

I think you mean 3M Schotch-brite . Is that correct?

Hey, you're right! I didn't pay attention to the manufacturer's name when I bought them. However, knowing me, I bought some cheap, generic version of these wheels: