Are these strip planks good enough?

[CatBuilder]

What do you guys think?

Can I fair these out with some bog? Are they good enough?

[hoytedow]

This edge looks out of alignment to me. Hard to tell from this angle alone, though.

[hoytedow]

You might be able to pull it into alignment if need be with some thin bolts and fender washers. Excuse rough diagram.

[CatBuilder]

Yeah, it is a little out. Thanks for the diagram. I'll try to pull them in a little for a better (more fair) curve.

I was wondering if a spot like that can be bogged in and sanded, worst case.

One part that's a sitting a little low, farthest away, is already glassed. I think I made that plank a bit too wide for that particular curve. The other parts were added today, but not yet bogged in because I wasn't sure if they would be able to be fixed up. I thought they looked a little out of alignment too.

[hoytedow]

If the boards are binding on each other you might run a Japanese saw along the seam to relax them into place.

[War Whoop]

Bead and Cove keeps everything honest.You will be thinking about that while you fair that boat.

[viking north]

Much easier to match fit strips than to fill and sand epoxy--at todays cost of epoxy much cheaper also. Make every effort matching these joins. On tight curves you might want to saw the strips to half widths. The seam sawing recommended by Hoyte will help. On Hoyts idea of the clamping , on many of the seams just use a small piece of 3/4 pine board on the outside and low torque drive a few course thread screws thru the out of aligned strips from the inside to pull it all in place. Split the board to expose the screws and either back screw them out or cut them off. In some places the old wire sewing trick used in stitch and glue fabrications will work. I prefer male moulds, thin strips,edge nailing and of course bead and cove for max fit and strength, however you're into it now and must work with what you've got. Another trick you might want to try after you invert the hull is to sand or plane the high corners off the out of align strips before glassing.This will go a long way reducing filler material and resultant fairing labour.----Geo

[TeddyDiver]

a "ribbet" can hold them aligned..
http://www.boatdesign.net/gallery/sh...2/ppuser/23741

[hoytedow]

Good idea. Have a properly curved work-piece inside and out clamped until glue sets.

[viking north]

Hoyte,actually that should work good especially on the areas of the tightest curves. On the frames (mould) the planking would normally set better. It's in between the frames that the two pieces set up as you describe would certianlly come in handy. I have to be honest here, I've never built a boat in a female mould so i'm not up on the tricks of the proceedure but i can aquate it to caraval plank on frame, keep the edges even and tight. We'll name your new tool "Dopple Ganger Ribbet" --- Geo.

A yacht is not defined by the vessel but by the care and love of her owner

[thedutchtouch]

i am definitely a newbie compared to some that have posted already (keep that in mind when considering my reply), but those strips seem pretty tall to me when compared to the curve that they follow- wouldn't halving the heights of the strips make it much easier to fair the sides/ make the gaps between boards much less pronounced?

[hoytedow]

Originally Posted by thedutchtouch

i am definitely a newbie compared to some that have posted already (keep that in mind when considering my reply), but those strips seem pretty tall to me when compared to the curve that they follow- wouldn't halving the heights of the strips make it much easier to fair the sides/ make the gaps between boards much less pronounced?

It would. I think the width as it is now is still acceptable with alignment bugs corrected.

[Herman]

For the next batch: Get some thin Core-Cell, (1/4" or even thinner) and route a groove in your planks, some 3/8 wide. Use small strips from the thin Core-Cell and place them in the groove. This will line things up considerably.

Bead and cove is possible as well, but keep in mind that you do lose some working width, so you will need to make some extra planks. Normal beads are 180 degrees (half round). Consider making them a bit more blunt, you will lose less material, and on the beads the edges are not that flimsy.

[glasser]

laying planks works a lot better if you hot steam them then placing them you get better fit and you shooed make up some curved blocks to pin them down for drying then they will remain in the new shape much better and make Les stress on the frame work you end up with a stronger boat if the planks are steam bent in to place

[TeddyDiver]

Originally Posted by Herman

For the next batch: Get some thin Core-Cell, (1/4" or even thinner) and route a groove in your planks, some 3/8 wide. Use small strips from the thin Core-Cell and place them in the groove. This will line things up considerably

Ply strips is ok too.. And even simplier is to nail them together..