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  #1  
Old 06-07-2009, 07:18 PM
lymanwhite lymanwhite is offline
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Simple Tricks


How about some of the simple tricks you have found that save time, money, and make you smile too? May not be for everyone, but if it works bring it on!

I have two to start.

- Ever heard of doing your first epoxy tool cleanup with vinegar? I follow up with alcohol, then a final small bit of thinner. Works well with uncured /still fresh juice, and minimizes the amount and contact I have with thinner.

- I had some old bag sealer tape, and trying to get it to tack to a clean piece of glass brought back all the old hassles of using it even when new.
So I grabbed a roll of 3M clear sealing tape and used that. Quick, cheap. Works well except for bag overlap areas.
For that I sprayed rubber cement into the folded bag area. 29.5 hg.
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Old 06-07-2009, 08:24 PM
Landlubber Landlubber is offline
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Following on with the vinegar, use it for hand washing too, common knowledge in Australia, but maybe not so in the rest of the blue marble.
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Old 06-09-2009, 07:55 AM
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oscarvan oscarvan is offline
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Box with nitrile gloves....100 Grab a pair and throw it with the mixing stick and container when you're done. No goop on hands.
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Old 06-09-2009, 11:41 AM
lymanwhite lymanwhite is offline
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Nothing worse than running out of gloves!
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Old 07-01-2009, 11:09 AM
offshoreonly offshoreonly is offline
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Buy the gloves in a size larger than you need. I normally put anywhere from 5-10 pairs on depending on how much 'glassing I am in store for. As they get sticky or develop a hole, just pull that pair off and you now have a nice clean pair again. No more stopping and no sticky fingers, lol.
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Old 07-01-2009, 04:43 PM
mydauphin mydauphin is offline
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Whenever you buy gloves, buy two boxes. When you run out of one, buy two. You will never run out - I promise.
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Old 07-01-2009, 05:23 PM
lymanwhite lymanwhite is offline
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Any one use alcohol for pre thinner cleanup. I've had good results, and keep a gallon with a plunger dispenser, and a spray bottle on the bench.
Mostly for paint world stuff, but I've had some success with the layup cleaning too. Anything really that will keep the voc out of my brain / kidney's.
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Old 07-02-2009, 01:26 AM
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Manie B Manie B is offline
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Vinegar doesn't always work

i have epoxy that is a 100:65 mix that works well with vinegar BUT my epoxy with a 100:18 mix ONLY works with acetone

i did extensive experimentation with all the alcohols and thinners etc

i use the "yellow" dishwasher gloves used in the kitchen, when i clean my tools i also clean the gloves, the gloves are strong and last a couple of days
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Old 07-02-2009, 08:47 AM
lymanwhite lymanwhite is offline
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I like the idea of putting on several pairs of gloves, have never tried that.
Using West System, and as long as the juice is still in workable shape, the vinegar has been successful for initial cleaning.
Theory: vinegar is an acid base. Mixed epoxy is an a base akaline substance (?). The juice is therefore 'nutralized' by the vinegar. I do know that the juice turns milky and seems to lose its stick consistency when pushed around on a surface with a brush. This 'mixing' seems to be essential to breaking down the juice.

Any thoughts on the chemistry?
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Old 07-02-2009, 02:31 PM
jdarling jdarling is offline
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I know I'm new here, but one thing I've found useful so far is that your local "sign shop" typically has scrap plastic they just throw away. I've managed to get pieces up to 3'x3' for free! Its a quick and easy prototyping material that tends to react similar to wood. Can also be made into a nice pattern if you get enough pieces.

- Jeremy
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Old 07-02-2009, 05:50 PM
offshoreonly offshoreonly is offline
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A couple more i have picked up.
Before grinding starts, cover yourself with baby power, talc, etc. It will keep the fibers from entering your skin pores. Or at least it helps considerably.

For heavy fiberglass grinding, forget about sanding or grinding disks. Get the flapper disks in 36 grit. And dont buy the cheap ones from harbor freight. Buy the good one from home depot or lowes. As a matter of fact, dont buy any of your grinding or sanding materials from harbor freight unless you get the Norton brand. You will go through way way more paper than if you just spent the money on good products. This includes the da paper, grinding disks, flappers disks,cut-off wheels, and basically any other cheap abrasive product they sell. This is from personel experience. Want an example? 3 flapper disks for $9 or so from harbor freight. They did half my transom. One $6 disk from Lowes did the other half. Used half a roll of 80grit da paper on the inside of a car door. 3 sheets of Mirka brand from the local paint supply did the other door. You definatly get what you pay for.
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Old 07-02-2009, 06:21 PM
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apex1 apex1 is offline
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Thanks for the Baby Power one!
IŽll refine it a bit and try baby powder instead THAT sounds like a good idea

Regards
Richard
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Old 07-03-2009, 03:54 AM
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rwatson rwatson is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by apex1 View Post
Thanks for the Baby Power one!
I´ll refine it a bit and try baby powder instead THAT sounds like a good idea
Bugger- wish you had posted earlier - the casualty department sent the cops around this afternoon, and I am in a lot of trouble!!!

Last edited by rwatson : 07-03-2009 at 03:55 AM. Reason: Baby Power mixup
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  #14  
Old 07-03-2009, 12:23 PM
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apex1 apex1 is offline
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Originally Posted by rwatson View Post
Bugger- wish you had posted earlier - the casualty department sent the cops around this afternoon, and I am in a lot of trouble!!!
cought in action? covered with baby power? have the babys been cute, blond and at least 18? No prob mate..........

sorry couldŽnt resist
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  #15  
Old 07-03-2009, 02:25 PM
TeddyDiver TeddyDiver is online now
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Boat weight

Just ad all materials (weight in the consignment) brought in the shop reduced with weight all waste carried out or left behind when ready..
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