Parquette deck?

Hi All,

I'm working on an idea for a parquette deck for my next boat and would like some advice please.


I knew I shoulda payed more attention at Jigsaw puzzels 101 at school!

This little piece will end up being a sheoke parquette top fly tying desk when complete.

I've got this idea, that I could do this for the deck of my next charter boat.


The timber is commonly used here in marine applications, for it's stability (less than 0.5% shriinkage from green to dry).

I'm thinking I lay it in with 5200 marine epoxy...on a marine ply backing?

My question is - what would I finnish over the top with?

Being a centre console she will be wet a lot of the time.

Is there some kind of clear space age wonder material, that I can coat over the top - and maybe mould in a non skid finnish?...which will show the pattern, grain & colour thru - but not let the timber fade to grey with moisture and sunlight?

Maybe some kind of polyeurothane two pack pour on or something? I don;t want to be re finnishing the timberwork every year...

Any idea's?

Cheers & Thanks in advance.

[ErikG]

A couple of layers SP sytems 106 will give you the toughness, cover it with Ultravar 2000 a polyurethene based varnish giving the epoxi a good protection from UV rays. And it looks great too!

Thanks indeed Eric.

Where can i find iinfo on these SP Sytems 106, and the ultravar 2000 Polyeurothane finnish please?

Is this something you have used over a timber deck?

Has it held up well?

I have some concernes about finding a very very stable substrate to epoxy the herringbone parquette too, so that movement is minimised.

The sheoke blocks I'm using I've milled and kiln dried myself, it's a wonderfully stable timber in a marine environment, but I wan't to minimise any chance of movement, chequing warping etc, bye sealing 100% and if necessary, allowing rubberised expansion slots between say 1ft square tiles of this parquette..

I was thinking even of fully encapsulating each tile of parquette - maybe epoxied to a fibreglass backing, then set into a mould (with nonskid crosshatching diamonds pattern) that contains some kind of fibreglass that sets up clear / see thru. I was wondering if thin CSM would go clear when the resin soaks thru it - enough for the timber color pattern and grain to show thru - but enough to keep the timber parquette completely 100% encapsulated and protected from moisture intrusion and thus expansion / contraction?.

I could then lay each 1 ft square "parqueete encapsulated tile" onto a stable flooring substrate with rubberised expansion contraction joints between each tile...

I have plenty of time and timber, and can make up the tile mould and the individual parquette tiles on substrate and een glass them myself...

Time and timber isn't a problem - but finding a suitable "method" that will work 100% is..

Many thanks in advance!

[ErikG]

i haven't used it on floors (yet) I dont know if the varnish is hard enough, otherwise I think you can use a number of standard varnishes ontop of the UV2000.

You can find info about SP Systems products here

I've seen woodsurfaces encapsulated w epoxi and a layer of wr. And I couldnt see the fiberglass at all!

Here's the main dealer in Australia. I suppose you should be able to find a local dealer in your corner of oz to!

I'm sure that the other epoxi companies have products like these that can be used in more or less the same way.

Good luck

Erik

ps. when will we se a working prototype of your new propulsion system? :-)

SP Systems (Australia)

SP Systems (Australia) Pty Ltd
4B Wilmette Place
Mona Vale
Sydney
NSW 2103

Tel: + 61 (2) 9979 7248
Fax: + 61 (2) 9979 6378
email: info@spoz.com.au

[yipster]

hi guy's, about propulsion i asumed all are still flabbergasted by mitsubishi's heavy industry's research into optimal design of truster system for superconducting electromagnetic propulsion the pdf takes about 30 sec download but wow, not only resistance formulas for a swath, look at the propulsion! nobody came up with any reaction tho, not even "would an AFF (artificial force field) help in seawater conductivety ?" and unfortunatly the scalar source is not mentiont here (yet)...

yipster
building a waterbike...

It appears to me that the major inneficiency of that particular hydrodynamic magnetic thrust system, is it's reliance upon superconductivity, and the relatively inefficient use of traditionally generated current.

Were Yamamoto to consider the use of energy from the scalar potential, and the application of doped degenerate semi conductors, (rather than his favoured superconductors, I believe he might actually be on to something.

I'll email him my M = Δ T theory and see what reaction we get!

Cheers!

[Willallison]

I know it will look nice Trouty - but why bother? In a commercial application, where people are only going to do their best to ruin everything they can touch.....
But most of all it'll add weight..... the enemy of any planing vessel.

For another (lighter) option, you could look at some of the fake teak decking - like flexiteak or Marinedeck 2000....

I was thinking that with the weight I save building the vessel in plate alloy, I can "splurge" a little to have a "special" deck, even if it means extra weight..

I can dress the parquette tiles down to maybe 1/4inch if needs be to lighten them up...the ones in the pic above are 3/4 inch thick which I agree is too heavey for a boat deck.

The reason to go for the special deck - is for a few reasons.

1. Coz I just love the look of it

2. Coz I've got me this timber business, log contract, kiln, factory, machines etc and lottsa time on my hands so...it makes sense to use what I have handy.

3. It says something about the owner - I supply a lot of sheoke into the commercial boat building industry in this state, and the more "commercial boaters" etc who see it and love it - the more will order it for their next cray boat, tuna longliner, charter vessel etc.. A few of the luxury liveaboard charter yachts in Broome already have my sheoke as trim throught all the cabins berths bunks etc...
Sheoke trim is naval Architect Gavin Mairs design signature....I supply that timber to his boat builders, here in WA it's considered the 'mark' of some of the finest boats built...

I'd like My boat to make one of Gavins look like an 'amateur' designed & built it!

4. I was a forester for a long while - I make some damn fine timber furniture, and I guess I'm a wood type person... I want a alloy charter vessel for low weight / low maintenance reasons, but would really like to "dress it up" with some special timber that I have handy, just because I can I guess...Even the helm station will be fancy timber and inlays etc..

5. This boat will be my advertising drawcard - when new, I'll probably display it as the centrepiece of the Port Bouvard Boat show, it's got to be something outta the ordinary that will knock the average boaters eyes out, make their knees go wobbly and start em salivating...it HAS to be special...

I can't stand the look of that fake teak flooring - I saw some at the last boatshow, and IMHO - it ruined what looked like some reallynice boats...

I'm a wood guy - I even hate laminex with wood photo's on it...

Everything in this worlds plastic and fake, I like the real McCoy I'm afraid Will, call me old school - but the idea of cutting down a tree and milling it up - drying it and using it in boats, seems to me like something God woulda approved of, after all - he had noah build the ark outta wood, and it IS a renewable resource. Bugga the greenies - the only good greenie - is one you just tossed over the side with no PFD at the 50 fathom line and can see wavin his arm on the horizon as you head back to port.


Cheers!

[Willallison]

Aint nuttin there I can really argue with Trouty.
Don't have much experience with parquete flooring, but I know that a lot of manufacturers run teak decks only 6mm thick - sometimes even thinner....