One-off plug building question

Discussion in 'Boatbuilding' started by nemo, Jul 22, 2005.

  1. nemo
    Joined: Apr 2002
    Posts: 132
    Likes: 3, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 137
    Location: GENOA, ITALY

    nemo Naval Architect

    Hi,
    I designed a boat that will be built one-off. I'm not much into this kind of construction, I know the procedure but I have some doubts about the making of the plug.
    The frames of the plug will be cut with a cnc router, and I figure out I have to subtract the hull thickness from the station, to give a correct dxf file to the cnc router. And what about longitudinal wood strips on the plug, how far should I put them from each other, transversely?
     
  2. gonzo
    Joined: Aug 2002
    Posts: 16,817
    Likes: 1,726, Points: 123, Legacy Rep: 2031
    Location: Milwaukee, WI

    gonzo Senior Member

    What material is the hull going to be built of?
     
  3. nemo
    Joined: Apr 2002
    Posts: 132
    Likes: 3, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 137
    Location: GENOA, ITALY

    nemo Naval Architect

    Fiberglass/Epoxy
     
  4. nemo
    Joined: Apr 2002
    Posts: 132
    Likes: 3, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 137
    Location: GENOA, ITALY

    nemo Naval Architect

    I mean..solid glass for the hull and sandwich for the deck.
     
  5. SamSam
    Joined: Feb 2005
    Posts: 3,899
    Likes: 200, Points: 63, Legacy Rep: 971
    Location: Coastal Georgia

    SamSam Senior Member

    For a new design one-off, making a plug and a mold might not be the way to go. The time, money and marerials of a one use plug and mold could be expensive, with no guarantee the boat will be any good. Depending on the shape of the boat, a one use mold might be easily and rapidly constructed of cheap materials or a boat made more or less directly, with say c-flex, and all the time spent fairing a plug could be spent fairing the boat, and most of the materials in a fiberglass mold could just be used in a fiberglass boat. Sam
     
  6. gonzo
    Joined: Aug 2002
    Posts: 16,817
    Likes: 1,726, Points: 123, Legacy Rep: 2031
    Location: Milwaukee, WI

    gonzo Senior Member

    If you are making a male mold, it has to be completely planked. Fiberglass molds can't have gaps.
     
  7. nemo
    Joined: Apr 2002
    Posts: 132
    Likes: 3, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 137
    Location: GENOA, ITALY

    nemo Naval Architect

    Wait, I think we're going far from the thing I asked :)
    Ok, I'll do a male mold.. the thing I wanted to know is how should I take into count the thickness of the strip plank when I draw the frames that have to be cut with a cnc router..
     
  8. SamSam
    Joined: Feb 2005
    Posts: 3,899
    Likes: 200, Points: 63, Legacy Rep: 971
    Location: Coastal Georgia

    SamSam Senior Member

    If you were referring to my post above, I was thinking of that 1/8" masonite smooth surfaced 'tile board' stuff from 'Home Despots' for around $11 for a 4x8' sheet. With Bondo in the corners and a few coats of wax it works very well and depending on the construction of the mold will last for multiple uses. As mentioned it depends on the shape of the hull, as to what you can use for a mold. Re-reading your post though, I think you weren't addressing me, as I was talking about a direct female mold.? Sam
     

  9. gonzo
    Joined: Aug 2002
    Posts: 16,817
    Likes: 1,726, Points: 123, Legacy Rep: 2031
    Location: Milwaukee, WI

    gonzo Senior Member

    The thickness to be substracted has to be perpendicular to the surface of the planking. That is, it varies as the angle of incidence of the planking changes with respect to the framing.
     
Loading...
Forum posts represent the experience, opinion, and view of individual users. Boat Design Net does not necessarily endorse nor share the view of each individual post.
When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. Your circumstances or experience may be different.