The "NANCY G" a surfboat /lifeboat to motorsailer conversion build in progress

MMmmm-- Your drive system being a CPP set up it is made up of many more moving parts than the standard marine gear,shaft tube, shaft, cutlass and prop. In other words a technical /mechanical thread that would rarely degrade into verbal fisticuffs. Of course I have a hidden agenda here being a big fan of the CPP system and wanting one for my own build, I tend to stay alert on the topic. Possibly a posting member in addition to suggesting a fix idea might also offer one for sale.

 

There's a boatload of interesting stuff on this guys site - Rebuilt, Remanufactured and Cast his own prop blades for a three blade CPP hundested - very impressive...

http://www.svseeker.com/controllable_pitch_propeller.htm

 

Thanks Andy, I came across this very impressive article back in April when I opened a thread on the CPP systems in my attempt to locate one. I hit the same wall as most others looking for a small version compatible with a 30hp. and under engine. Just missed a used one for sale in Finland . However I still haven't given up on the idea which is one of the reasons I was hoping John (Scunthorp) is going to open a thread on his CPP, re the problem/trouble shooting and repair. In addition to generating re newed interest it might also present a purchase opportunity . (Just had a lightbulb, maybe John can just post on my Old Thread waking it up for more input especially with an actual unit to trouble shoot and repair.) To continue, I'm in a bit of a fortunate situation in that the my existing shaft tube has a large enough diameter to facilitate most lower H.P. Cpp units. I can leave it in place and slide a regular shaft tube and shaft into it , thus using a regular system until and if a CPP becomes available. It is then a simple matter to remove the regular unit and install the CPP. Failing that I guess it will be a search for a used Maxi Prop or equivalent type. Certainly can't afford a new one . Thanks again for your interest and taking the time to search and post that article ----Geo.

 

I picked up an Autostream prop off of eBay for a substantially lower then new price. Still rather have a true CPP but - maybe the next boat. If there is one.

I downloaded a copy of the posted Vega CPP drawings. Interesting indeed. They use segments of gears and a rack to move the blades. I'd love to see a pile of close-up photos of all the parts, even moreso with dimensions so I didn't have to guess.

PDW

 

PD if you pass that info on to Scunthorp (John) on the CPP thread I'm sure he'll endeavor to take photos on the trouble shooting tear down of the parts along with dimensions. I think he plans a full scale rebuild in prep. for his Atlantic crossing. Time permitting I'm going to give him a hand and most likely I'll set him up with his own work bench at the shop just to gain CPP insight and see him skin his knuckles

 

Fore Foot Extention Bolts

Finally a rainy day and I get back on the build. Taking the basic measurements of what was required I wake up my 1800's technology based, Asian manufactured bender and introduce it to a few scrap pieces of 316 round stock. Amazingly 3 out of 4 results came very close to the dimensions I needed. I fine tuned these with even more ancient tools, the hammer and anvil . Because of the technology I am working with and my lack of experience hours with that early industrial age technology I chose not to thread the U bolts pre bending but instead add threads by simply welding on a piece of threaded rod. Definitely not something I recommend for high load and stress fasteners. However since these fasteners are more or less additional insurance to what will be an already extremely strongly fastened GRP section of forefoot I have no second thoughts about doing so. Next post preparing and welding the thread sections to the U bolt fasteners.

 

Looks great George. what did you weld them with? Stick or wire? You will be able to crush granite with them LOL

 

Nicely done!

 

I climbed down off the roof of the new house addition at 11:30 last night . Forced to close it in ready for 2 days of heavy rains ,so my get up and go, got up and went with that out put.--- As a result I was sort of dragging my *** around the shop today and never got to plug in the Hobart to burn rods. Stainless is one of my favorite metals to stick weld plus I get to save using my 1/3 tank of expensive Argon for that special visible project. The welding is scheduled for tomorrow (Sun.) when the proof will be in the pudding . Just kidding really it's a piece of cake

 

Fore Foot Extention Bolts

All in all a good day. Between torrential rain showers I managed to get the Fore foot bolts welded, threads cleaned up, and installed. These along with those three 3/4 bolts that act both as re reinforcing and hole fillers. I am not happy with these over-sized uglies so I'll wait and ponder while I move aft. and work on two more keel bolt pairs situated at stations 3 & 4 .

 

I envy your metal working skills.

 

Ditto.

 

Thanks Guys, this is very basic but fun metal work. The ancient technology bender is one step above heat bending and comes with a beginners manual which I still refer to. Surprisingly it is not bad for accuracy usually within 1/8 to 1/4 in. with a bit of practice. Not shown on the post is my little trick of a trial bend using a piece of scrap regular steel round stock to get the settings on the machine prior to attacking the more expensive 316. (don't tell anyone as it makes me look good ) Stick welding stainless is so forgiving that I think all new welders should start using this material . It will help develop technique similar to gas bronze welding helps with learning TIG procedure. Speaking of gas welding I just had a 50 plus year flashback of welding up the burnt out rusty exhaust on our old jalopies. We'd use wire coat(clothes) hangers over bronze, much more forgiving. This tip was passed on by an old guy that did the same
in his earlier days on even older jalopies. Wisdom with age, Ain't life grand in our golden years , Have a Good One, Geo.

 

Back on the boat today. Had good production. Got rid of those big ugly 3/4 hole filler bolts in the forefoot section and replaced them with a 5/8 dia. stainless U bolt. I'll fill in the 3/4 holes prior to installing the ballast. I also came up with a good idea on how to make that forefoot extension shell to stainless stem join up. It has been bugging me for some time but as I normally do I let it fester for awhile and solve itself. I'll show this in more detail in a later post. In addition to completing (bending and welding ) the U bolt to replace the ugly 3/4 bolts I also did likewise for two more pairs of keel bolts back to stn. #5. The trusty ancient bender did good work today bending up the remainder of the U bolts that will be welded to the yet to be installed keel bolt pairs. Once these are installed i'm ready for the stainless rod longitudinals to finish off the ballast cage. Next post completing and installing the remaining keel bolt pairs.

 

Completion Of Keel Bolts

Over the past few days I completed fabricating and installing the remaining keel bolts specifically this entailed those 4 remaining pairs in the fin. One of the photos shows use of the square checking that the keel bolts are transversely perpendicular to the original keel. You can see that this pair is about 1/2 in. out. This occurred because the low tech bender doesn't always bend the rod equally on both corners of the U bolt shape. In the same photo you will see the friendly persuader (20lb. sledge) that fine tunes the out of alignment. After a little fine tuning all is ready to install the longitudinal rods that will complete the ballast cage . This I will do over the next couple of days.