Manie's TEN

I'm pleased with your stock too, it's the ventilation plan of the battery box (or the lack of) I'm talking about, but I've made my point, the implementation is up to you . . :idea:

 

Angelique thanks for the input

all systems will be tested over and over again
we don't take chances

 

and this is where all the testing will be done over and over again

until we are 100% sure that its all systems go

then we go to the moon and back

December 2015

 

Interesting paper on

HYDROGEN GAS MANAGEMENT FOR FLOODED LEAD ACID BATTERIES
http://www.battcon.com/papersfinal2008/odonnellpaper2008proof_6.pdf

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/fuel-efficiency/alternative-fuels/hydrogen-vehicle-danger1.htm

 

The speciality of Lead Crystal batteries seems to be some unspecified additives in the electrolyte and the combination of the two VRLA battery types AGM and gel.

Lead Crystal User Manual.

But keep in mind the Lead Crystal batteries don't have a regulation valve for nothing, it releases oxygen and hydrogen when not recombined within the battery itself and so causing overpressure.

Hence the manufacturer's instruction: ‘‘Do Not Charge in Sealed Container’’

I'm sure you're not allowed to charge them while as cargo in a plane, charging is what we're talking about.

 

Thanks Angelique very good User Manual

 

Wish you a prosperous construction and good testing there, it sure looks like a good place for serious testing . . .

But it's a long drive from Pretoria though.

Anyway, enjoy the carpetbag steaks in the clubhouse restaurant . . .

-- link -- link --​

 

Glad to see it's coming together Manie but at the same time even a small boat is so complex! Angelique's concerns are right, batteries are not pleasant things when they go wrong. I have no advice for you, I am but a simple man. Maybe I could be in the moral support department.

 

RHP thanks and I do take all good advice seriously - the battery box will be well ventilated and protected, having a fire under the bed wont be fun

 

Well folks after all the "batteries" discussions I just felt it would be fair to show you my progress

The first pic is of the battery box showing the little "sump" bilge that I made for the 12v bilge pump. There is a spacer that keeps the batteries apart.
The second pic is of the underside of the battery box that will be filled with ballast.

The other pics is basically showing the keel in all its glory
The other voids in the keel will be filled with foam.

Once this lot is finished I can start on the "roof" yippeeee
That is going to be the really interesting part of the build.

Enjoy.

 

Nice progress Manie, looking good

 

Looks very good. I look forward to seeing your sailing rig and sea trials. In the same time you have built this, I would still be only 1/2 done a 1/2 scale model. So maybe I will focus on my Yngling which is 2x the length and 1/2 the weight and already built. I hope to use many of your ideas, but of course not venture quite so far. Wonderful interior.

I will offer this link, which you may have seen already. I am posting it not so much because of the merits of the crab claw rig, but because I think it provides a wonderful illustration of the pros and cons of high aspect ratio and low aspect ratio rigs, and how it is possible to change the effective aspect ratio by changing the rake the rig. Heeling the boat to weather when sailing downwind also shifts the rig and balancing favourably, and might be achieved with shifting ballast.

http://www.multihull.de/technik/t-slotboom_gb.htm

I also wonder if you plan on sitting out on fair sailing days. With a fair weather rig, like a sliding gunter or a top mast and topsail, and a little extra righting moment by comfortably hiking out, this boat might still do 2.5 knots upwind tacking through 100 or so. Would provide a nice change from down below and give you a better view of the weather ahead.

Looking at two of Laurent Giles heavier designs, the 5 ton 25 foot Vertue and the 8 ton 30 foot Wanderer. This Ten has about twice the Displacement/Length Ratio, but perhaps more concerning for its windward performance is where it will get it's righting moment. As boats get heavier and heavier their metacentric height tends to drop and so they depend more and more on ballast to lower their center of gravity. This Ten is fairly beamy and has a low center of gravity but I don't think it would have much righting moment without shifting ballast. The best opportunity to do so, at least in fair weather, might be to get them helmsman to hike out over the side, perhaps even with a sliding seat or trapeze. Not an option in a storm, but I think a reasonable option in fair weather and a nice way to get out and enjoy the day and make some hay.

As for a rig, I think for fair weather sailing upwind it can be fairly lightweight and stowable as it does not need to survive a knockover. The working rig for storms could be fixed, and I would agree it doesn't necessarily need to be stayed. The extra sail for fair weather sailing might simply be a lighter longer sprit or lug on the same mast, or maybe a sliding gunter on the same mast. It only needs to be strong enough or stiff enough for the righting moment available to drive it. If made of carbon fibre it could be very light. A mirror dinghy rig might be very suitable for fair weather sailing, maybe with a flying jib as well in light winds. Then with the carbon gunter dropped and stored on deck, a smaller rig, and heavier sailcloth, for sailing at night and in storms. Just some ideas. Cheers.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=doOGS_9jjBA

You could also look at Thames Sailing Barge rigs for some inspiration.
Here is an interesting pocket cruiser based on the Thames Sailing Barge
http://www.tadroberts.ca/services/small-boats/sail/harry126

 

Manie,
Are you keeping the rudder under the boat within the 10 feet. I am looking at where you have ended the keel. I think that is more in keeping with the rule, but I would be happy either way. I am thinking about making a 1/8th model based on an old Pinky Schooner or Chebacco Boat. The Pinky stern had a sort of cutaway which allows the rudder to still be hung rather than on a thru-hull post, but still have some deck around it. I was thinking in our case we could do something similar like have the keel end at 9 feet from the stem and the rudder still hung off the back for accessibility, but still have some hull around it all the way back.

 

Jamie here is the old drawing that was posted originally before I started building. Anyway only the hull shape changed to make the waterline longer. The swim platform and the transom hung balanced rudder stays the same just the tiller arrangement has changed. The tiller and rudder is completely external.

Excepting for minor changes the boat is true to the original design.
We did our planning very carefully and knew exactly what we wanted before we started building, we don't chop and change for the sake of change.

My goal was to build and sail a ten foot heavy displacement full keel "little ship" it's not a speed machine, it is an endurance cruiser built for cold waters.

Please keep in mind this is a FUN project, its a happy little ship. I don't claim to change the world of yacht design and I am not suicidal I am just going to have myself a bucket load of FUN with a very well built boat that will be equipped with some exceptionally cool gadgets

 

Thanks Manie. I like your design, including the rig. Glad to see the rudder off the stern as that makes things easier for me and it is good to be on the same page. I like the swim platform also. Curious what it might do for the pitching action and breaking waves in addition to being a good platform to work from. I agree with the whole idea of a fun project. Everyone has a somewhat different idea of fun, how they wish to pass their time at sea, and aesthetics. I really like your interior. Beautiful both in form and in function. I think there is a saying that form follows function, but also that no design is complete until their is beauty, which I think includes and transcends both form and function. If the finished boat is like your interior it is bound to be a beautiful little ship, and a pleasure to take on any voyage.

I love to sail, so I am a bit of a speed demon, but speed is a relative term for me. For a 10 foot ocean going sailing ship I think I would be very pleased with 50 mile days. I may have to recalibrate the knotmeter 0.00 to 4.00 rather than 0.0 to 20.0 or whatever they are, so I can measure my gains in terms of 0.01 knots versus 0.1 knots, but the game is the same.

I will see if I can put a design together of my own and make a 1/8th sailing model, and see what I can learn from that. For the full scale I will be too busy with Yngling, but hope to incorporate many of your ideas there from your Ten. The electric motor and batteries, solar panels and wind turbine, and something approaching your beautiful cabinet work. It will be used only for river cruising and for coastal cruising not passage making, but what I learn from that experience I do hope to take out onto the ocean someday, perhaps in a Ten. But I am only turning 53 next week, so there is plenty of time left. ;-)