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#1
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| laminating a sticth and glue boat hi there everyone, im looking for glass weights and how many layers inside and out would be adviseable for a 16 foot bay boat ,im not useing epoxy but vinlyester, but am epoxying taped joints ,any advice welcome. |
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#2
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| Not enough information. Are you starting with plywood? If so, how thick? If yes, why are additional fibreglass laminates required in your particular circumstances? What source are are you using to determine scantlings? (etc!) Tony. |
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#3
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| hi tony,1/4inch ply to form shape and looking to build a light but strong boat although epoxy would be the best the almighty doller will only allow for vinyleter,and scantling im going to modify from 2v-bottom boat ply scantling,i have seen a lot of matiral list for stich and glue designs they metion fabric amounts but not glass waits and laminating scheduels,im also hoping to use some triaxil,i hope this helps and not confuses,i basicly wanting to turn a ply boat into stich and glue,and needing to now what waits to glass up with ie two by 9ounce external and one by 9ounce internaly or will 6ounce or 12 do etc, cheers form Chris. |
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#4
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| I think that if I was really tight for money, then I would build the plywood boat conventionally, as envisaged by the designer, but would put what little adhesive budget I could scrape up into the best quality epoxy, and glue the wood to wood joints as well as fasten with screws. Use low cost exterior ply, and live with the defects you will certainly find, fixing them as they become apparent! Use ordinary high gloss exterior paint for the topsides (not expensive marine paint), get the boat built as cheaply as you can, and then use and enjoy it. If you are really set on going the stitch and glue route, read Sam Devlin's book, and save up until you can afford to do the job right. Tony. |
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#5
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| You wont get much more out of tri-axial that you would get from 45/45 biax (except more weight). The plywood already has directional strength at 0/90, so the 45/45 will do just fine. Lamination schedules are tricky and Im not a designer so I wont speculate, especially since you aren’t using epoxy throughout - I don’t have any experience working with vinylester. Best of luck. Just curious, were are you getting the vinylester resin and how much cheaper is it? I Joel Shine Boatbuildercentral.com |
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#6
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| hi joel ,as i can only source 800grm plus tri-axial which dont drap well i have gone back to the biaxial in 400grm two outer one inner and the vinylester in downunder is about 150aussi dollers for 20kg pale a lot cheaper than epoxy but for stich and glue vinylester has a bit to much shinkage for my likeing and as my luck goes it will probibly delaminate on me so im saveing and doing the right thing getting a good marine epoxy.thank for the reply cheers ferralflyer |
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#7
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| Ferrel, I think going with the two layers of biax is a good choice. It will be a heck of a lot easier to laminate. Good luck with the resin, I would like to know how it works - I may be able to find a use for it myself. |
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