Kurt Hughes Daycharter 36

Discussion in 'Boatbuilding' started by Charly, Mar 10, 2010.

  1. Charly
    Joined: Dec 2009
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    Location: st simons island ga

    Charly Senior Member

    Caiman, thanks for posting. Glad to know you are around.

    I have been wondering how to handle the "fuseable link" challenge. The dowel sounds like a good and simple arrangement. What size dowel do you use? I was thinking that in my case, the dowel could double as a "hold up" pin when I want to keep the blade out of the water... so it needs to be strong enough to support the dead weight of the rudder assembly that would be resting on top of it. Maybe Ill use oak or something for that, and a softer wood for the breakable one.

    I will have a few more pics in a day or so. I just mounted the sheaves in the cassettes for the hold down line.
     
  2. Charly
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    Location: st simons island ga

    Charly Senior Member

    Sam Sam, I will do that to the front edge of the cassette, I think. It is still evolving. I keep finding new issues each time I do something:D

    Yesterday I roughed in another stair, which will give more lateral support to the partially kicked up rudder. I hope to get it all ironed out this week. I still have a LOT to do before splashing, and I had hoped to splash this March or April. There still are two boards to make, bottom paint, rudders to finish, bow tube, outboards to mount, plus a million small details before she goes in.

    At this stage the rough plan is to demount and truck it to the Mckay river boat ramp, re assemble on the beach there, and get Sea Tow to drag it out. Should be a blast! Maybe if you are not busy then you could come down and celebrate with us?
     
  3. SamSam
    Joined: Feb 2005
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    Location: Coastal Georgia

    SamSam Senior Member

    Sure, I could come and help. I imagine the 'beach' there is kind of gnarly, I have some polyester mesh conveyor belt from the pulp mill that might work to be laid under the hulls to help protect them, especially if you plan to actually drag it into the water. When might the launch be?
     
  4. Charly
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    Location: st simons island ga

    Charly Senior Member

    I don't have a firm date yet. There are just too many loose ends. I plan to keep this thread going until the splash though. There will be plenty of warning, and I'll pm you also.
     
  5. keysdisease
    Joined: Mar 2006
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    Location: South Florida USA

    keysdisease Senior Member

    I've seen a few Cats launched on what we called "chariot wheels:idea:" Basically large diameter (30-36") wooden wheels constructed with whatever was handy made for a very short one way trip from the assembly area to the water.

    Usually powered by a bunch of beer fueled people, you launch the whole thing and the wheels float out for easy recovery.

    :cool:
     
  6. Charly
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    Location: st simons island ga

    Charly Senior Member

    That phase of the operation should go pretty smooth. There is just enough sandy beach there at the waters edge to bolt her all back together, and it is on a slope, so if I block up the bows so she's level and then let it down at launch we should have gravity working for us. Probably a few cylindrical fenders under each hull is all we will need. May not even need Sea Tow. Moving the hulls into position will be a bigger challenge, but I still have a couple of hundred two liter soda bottles with caps on saved for that...

    Now the REAL challenge is getting everything ready by spring.
     
  7. Charly
    Joined: Dec 2009
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    Location: st simons island ga

    Charly Senior Member

    outboard mount

    Too cold and wet to work outside, so last few days have focused back on the outboard mount. The "sled" was inspired by another exchange in the outboard forum thread a while back. It attaches to a side pod that will be bolted to the hull. The blocks and sheaves are all homemade, true to the apocalyptic economy model. Only a few bucks invested. Mostly built from scrap ply and an old cutting board. The blocks and lifting lines are shown roughed in with clamps. So far so good. I hope it works. Really.

    I am still trying to shave off some weight.

    Still soliciting ideas:)
     

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  8. caiman
    Joined: Dec 2008
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    Location: Wales

    caiman Junior Member

    Hi Charly
    My apologies for the delay in replying to your post.The doweling rod diameter is about 3/8.I am also trying to help another forum member and found the pic of a KH boat that has the extended cassette to achieve full kickupability.This is the method I adopted and it does work well.I did think that maybe the cassette 'extension' might act like the 'fliight' of an arrow and reduce the steering capability.It does not seem to.Also,my rudder can easily be made more effective with the addition of an end plate or fence or extended if required.As well as shallow waters,there are loads of poorly marked lobster pots in my sailing area.I know there is no excuse for not keeping a good lookout,but at least now my rudder can be easily raised if required.I have used the dowel to hold the rudder up clearish of the water when overnighting,but feel that the loads exerted on the end of the blade are a bit much so now 'stow' the rudder if I want to be 'wind rode' while anchored.
    Hope this helps.
    Cheers
     

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  9. caiman
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    caiman Junior Member

    On the subject of outboard brackets,Caiman has a 'raise,tilt and turn'bracket so that when stowed,the outboard leg sits in a holder on the edge of the sugar scoop.If you want a piccy I will go out to the boat and get some.Again,this design works well.The outboard leg is not bouncing around when sailing.Rigging the outboard takes seconds allthough it always seems to 'draw blood' when used.Thats on the todo list;)
    Cheers
     
  10. Charly
    Joined: Dec 2009
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    Location: st simons island ga

    Charly Senior Member

    Daggerboards

    Since I didn't allow enough space underneath the hulls for access to the board slots, the final hull fairing will have to be done with the hulls on their sides when I take the boat apart.

    The bulk glass work is finished, but I still have to tape the edges and fair the ends, etc. sometime before then.

    They fit fine, but at 10'X2', they are a bit much for one person to muscle into place. (the thing really is like a guillotine :eek:)

    The composite gizmo will attach to a pulley for added purchase when lifting the board up. It is a leftover piece from the composite deck cleats. I still have to figure out how to layout the lifting and lowering system though...I have decided that I want to lead both an up-haul and a downhaul to the helm. I guess there is plenty of time to ruminate on that one.

    They were fun to make actually. 20 oz triax layup, bagged down on a female half mould with balsa core and six pound pour in foam on the tips and edges.

    Onward. I am running on fumes but each day the goal is still getting closer:D

    Any advice appreciated.
     

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  11. caiman
    Joined: Dec 2008
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    caiman Junior Member

    'On a journey of a thousand miles,every footfall brings the destination closer.'
    The beer is working at the mo.
    Refuel and keep goin Dude.:cool:
    Respect.
    Cheers
     
  12. Charly
    Joined: Dec 2009
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    Location: st simons island ga

    Charly Senior Member

    more rudders and outboard stuff

    Here is the latest in the "evolution". Really a time consuming bassackwards way to build, but without a crystal clear idea of what one wants to begin with, I guess this is the only way. I hope I get it right before I put it in the water anyway...and hopefully anyone reading this won't make the same kind of mistake. It is kind of hard to visualize things sometimes without actually making something, and this would have been difficult to mock-up.(as opposed to "muck up"):D

    The "wedge" cutout piece is now fused to the cassette. With a little more finessing of the rudder blade top and underside of the cassette and keel, I will be able to raise the rudder or have it kick-up at any angle of turn, like I wanted. The new step should give more support to side loads on the the rudder if partially kicked up

    The hold down/re-set line is made fast inside the rudder trunk, then rove through a sheave mounted inside the cassette, then up and out through a block that is mounted underneath the "quadrant". From there I have to lead it up to somewhere accessable to the bridgedeck.

    The frames mounted next to the outboard bracket will be laced up with a line to support the gas tanks.

    Any suggestions appreciated. before I start with the paint.
     

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  13. keysdisease
    Joined: Mar 2006
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    Location: South Florida USA

    keysdisease Senior Member

    If you are going to use a plastic fuel tank like a Tempo ( I had the 12 gal versions on my cat) then you will want to support the entire bottom, not just the perimeter. You may have already planned for this, just saying...

    Steve
     
  14. Charly
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    Location: st simons island ga

    Charly Senior Member

    Steve, I was planning to lace a 1/4' line through all those little holes after paint. It would be like a "little tramp". Wouldn't that be strong enough ya think?
     

  15. keysdisease
    Joined: Mar 2006
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    Location: South Florida USA

    keysdisease Senior Member

    IDK, maybe. I'm pretty sure they call for full support, I seem to remember the plastic can't support the weight of the fuel by itself only supported from the perimeter, and laced line may not be stiff enough support. 12 Gal fuel = 72 lbs

    This is from years ago, with the new permeability regulations the newer tanks may be stronger and my memory dated.

    Steve
     
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