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  #1  
Old 07-30-2011, 07:45 AM
CatBuilder CatBuilder is offline
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How To Speed Up My Project? Ideas?

Ok, it's now been proven that a hull can be built. I have a hull, completed in 4 months.

However, I have to build another hull, a bridgedeck and deckhouse, cross beams, foils as well as paint the thing and install outboards and running/safety gear before launching.

I plan to finish the interior in the water and I'm only launching a painted, rudimentary shell.

Because I'd like to get this thing in the water about exactly 1 year from now, I need to find ways to make the project go faster.

My bottlenecks include:

*Purchasing - materials purchasing takes up a large chunk of my time
*Sanding - Doing a hand layup, I have to sand and bog the foam, then lay glass and bog glass weave, then fair the glass (more sanding).
*Heat - too hot to work right now, so I'm trying to do my foils in a small "tent in a tent." See #1 (purchasing) for why I am unable to start my foils right now.


I'm also confused because I watched someone resin infuse a sister ship this month. He took a couple weeks to lay out foam and glass, bag it, test the bag for leaks, etc. I was there the day of the infusion. It took him and his father about 2 hours, tops to infuse the entire hull, inside and out. Well, it was a hull section, but still. 2 hours.

I need the project to speed up. I have $10/hr labor where I am and I have resin infusion. Which would make it go faster? My foam is not pre-holed at the moment, but then I also don't have enough foam for the whole boat, either.

How can I speed the project up?

It is worthwhile to spend more money now to get the boat launched by next year. My annual land living expenses are higher than expected. Many high costs are associated with yearly living on land. I need to speed the launch up so I can get the thing in the water and away from hurricanes. Finishing the boat (mast, rigging, hardware, windows, ports, hatches, interior, systems, etc...) can all be done while in water in a less speedy way. I just need to get the hull done quickly.

How would you proceed?
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Old 07-30-2011, 03:49 PM
rberrey rberrey is online now
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Your next hull should be faster because the learning curve is over for the most part. Make a schedual , take time to write task that have to be done on a board in the tent, break it down to days, if you see enough tasks that $10 help can do in a day then bring someone in , clean the squares as you finish the task. You should have most of your priceing for hull material done, trust your suppliers that you have developed good relationships with and order from them , dont waste time shoppine around. You may lose a little money here and there, but if you dont shop around you wont know it and it wont bother you. You need to decide the value of your time for a given phase in your build. If you have'nt done resin infusion yet then there will be another learning curve, also the risk of loss of time and material if things go wrong. I say stay the chorce at least for the next hull, infuse smaller parts first and then go for the bridgedeck if you feel comfortable with your infusion abilities, my two cents. rick
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Old 07-31-2011, 01:09 AM
FMS FMS is offline
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My two cents: unless you are thinking of bringing in an infusion pro to setup the 2nd hull, I wouldn't even think of changing from the system that worked great for hull #1 for identical hull #2. Stick with what works and is now proven. You now have that down pat and the second should be faster and less risk. Save experimentation with a new system to a part you haven't already built or a smaller part with less risk.
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Old 07-31-2011, 01:38 AM
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Landlubber Landlubber is offline
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FMS...certainly right, do not change or you will be learning all over again, unless of course you have learned from your experience and pay professionals to do it for you........
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Old 07-31-2011, 03:01 AM
magwas magwas is offline
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Look at the bright side: you are certainly a lot faster than me. I am building my current 4m kayak since a year
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Old 07-31-2011, 01:23 PM
CatBuilder CatBuilder is offline
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Good response, Magwas. I suspect you are not working full time on your boat though.

Well, despite all the advice here, I think I will be infusing the exteriors, anyway, as well as the bridgedeck.

There isn't much to learn, really, since I've seen my boat being infused. I know how to set it up, know where to put the feeds and suction, know how to bag it, know how to build a resin trap, know I need a real vacuum (close to 29-30hg) and know I need a watery infusion epoxy. I also know I need a flow medium and peel ply.

Actually, I really think it'll be easier than hand laminating. Should take half the time to laminate, then later... for fairing, it'll take days instead of months. I am not enjoying the sanding, so that should be nice.

Only thing I am not following is what pump I need. I have a single Robinair 15500. It's a 5CFM pump that pulls down pretty much -30hg. I use it for refrigeration repairs and pumping down and fixing my wife's car air conditioner.

I feel like that pump should be my backup pump and that i need some other continuous run rated one to do the 24 hour suck downs. Can anyone suggest an economical, but good enough pump for infusion?

I know I need a good vacuum... close to 30hg.
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Old 07-31-2011, 01:26 PM
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peter radclyffe peter radclyffe is offline
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turn off your computer
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Old 07-31-2011, 01:32 PM
CatBuilder CatBuilder is offline
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Trying. I haven't been online in months. Just trying to get my next orders together, so I'm online.
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Old 07-31-2011, 02:42 PM
rasorinc rasorinc is offline
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I ditto those who say stick with the system you used on the first hull. What are you using to sand. There are many power tools to speed up that boring process including air files of all sizes.

HUTCHINS MODEL 3800 AIR SANDER
FREE SHIPPING ON THIS TOOL
AIR FILE SANDER
ORBITAL ACTION. Versatile. Adapts to every Surface Preparation need. Heavy duty to feather finishing. Powerful Air-Efficient Motor with 5-point Suspension guarantees 44 square inches of uniform, full contact sanding. Low maintenance, high productivity.
Pad size: 2¾ X 16½
Replacement and alternative pads available


Part # Size / Item Price
3800 AIR FILE SANDER $ 247.00
1802 Air File PSA Replacement Pad $ 16.50
5802H Air File Velcro / Hook it Optional Pad $ 28.50
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Old 07-31-2011, 03:09 PM
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TeddyDiver TeddyDiver is offline
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"I ditto those who say stick with the system you used on the first hull. " Concur..
for sanding check http://www.mirka-usa.com/abranet.html
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Old 07-31-2011, 04:22 PM
CatBuilder CatBuilder is offline
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But it takes much longer to do it the way I was doing it and Herman suggested doing it the way I am considering. If I already know how to do infusion (from going to a sistership that was infused while I was there), is there really any harm in building the boat in a faster and more efficient manner?

Ok, thanks for the advice. I do like to hear what folks say, but this time I probably will be deviating from the advice. If it all blows up (you can always fix a bad infusion), I'll let you all know you were right.
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Old 07-31-2011, 04:29 PM
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...infusion is easy, you have seen it done, but like most things in life, it is easy when you know how....it is not really easy in practice. There is a massive amount of work to be done in setting up to infuse, any missunderstanding or not understanding the whole process WILL lead to failure, not might. I worked in China when they were starting to do this, unfortunately they know everything, so it is very difficult to work there sometimes, but when it all goes bust, they want me to redo it and show them again....you will not have the advantage of doing it again mate.
Herman obviously knows what he is doing and has been doing it for some time, but i will bet you now, his first job at infusion was not a complete boat.....
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Old 07-31-2011, 04:48 PM
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AH! I forgot to add some details. I won't be infusing a whole boat first off either. First will be dagger boards, then rudders.

I already took part in that sistership infusion and am using all the same infusion materials and epoxy (all from the same supplier) as my sistership project. I know exact placement of the lines they used to make the infusion work. It did work - I was there. I'm just going to copy the same exact setup.

I believe the hard part is placing the resin sources and sinks such that the entire part is covered in epoxy when it starts sputtering out the top. This has already been figured out by the people doing the sistership, so I think I'm in the clear.

I don't see how it can go wrong when I've participated in an infusion of the same boat I'm currently working on and am copying the technique and using all the same materials. ??
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Old 07-31-2011, 04:55 PM
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hoytedow hoytedow is offline
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I salute you for your confidence in your own ability and for doing the daggerboards first. No pictures?
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Old 07-31-2011, 05:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hoytedow View Post
I salute you for your confidence in your own ability and for doing the daggerboards first. No pictures?
Nothing exciting to take a picture of. When I get some hulls joined, there will be celebratory pictures.
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