How do I keep the wood looking like wood?

I'm making a wooden boat using the stitch and glue method...

When it becomes time to finish the boat I would like to end up with a wooden boat that looks like wood.

From what I understand, the epoxy resin will be damaged by UV, so to end up with a good long lasting boat I will need to finish with something that can withstand the water and block UV.

What finish should I use (hopefully a fairly cheap one as well)

ps: Is epoxy resin something I can pick up a Lowes or Home Depot? Looking earlier today I only saw a $15 1 qt can of epoxy and I’m not sure it's even the right stuff, and that’s very expensive

 

Epoxy can be protected with varnish or polyurethane, to provide a clear(ish) finish on the lumber or plywood. Epoxy isn't cheap, though there are less costly brands, in comparison to the industry leaders. Stitch and glue, by it's nature requires lots of goo be used to literally hold the boat together by it's seams (hence the name of the method) There are other methods and designs that require much less epoxy or none at all.

The benefits of stitch and glue construction are, quick build times, typically using sheet goods (plywood) over conically developed surfaces. The method doesn't need the traditional frames, steaming of lumber (for the most part), seam caulking and the other things found in more traditional construction methods. If it wasn't for the strength of epoxy, stitch and glue wouldn't exist.

The draw backs are, the amount of goo you have to work with and the effect this has on the finished product. Basically this means that most S & G designs are intended for paint, with some varnished trim to highlight the lines a bit. Once a thickened epoxy fillet is applied, it can't be made to look clear. The only clear coating epoxy will allow is a thin glass cloth sheathing (6 oz. or less) or just unthickened epoxy alone on the surface (which provides little protection by the way, which is why glass cloth is used)

Boat building isn't a cheap hobby, especially if you're using much epoxy. Costs can be kept down in the design and with good material sourcing. Try not to worry about the finishes yet, you got a way to go before the days of bugs landing in your freshly applied varnish have you ready to bash things. Focus on getting to know the plans and assembling the materials for the build.

No, the epoxy you'll need will not be found at Lowe's or Home Depot. Your best bet is mail order or at a marine supply house (where you'll pay a lot more) Log on to WWW.WestSystem.com an learn about epoxy, the methods of application and get them to mail you their free how to manuals. You'll learn a lot and you'll be talking to the industry leader. Their products work very well, I use quite a number of the products they offer. I buy my epoxy locally, though I can't recommend this particular company to a beginner as their products require a bit of experience to get good results. You'll get fine results from the name brands. When you get some fillets and coatings under your belt then some of the other brands may be better for you.

Where are you in Florida, I'm just above Orlando? What design have you picked out for building?

 

I'm going to build this boat: http://www.jemwatercraft.com/pontoon.php

I'm not all that far from you then, I'm located near gainesville. (Brooker to be exact.. tiny tiny town)

 

You might try SP systems ( www.spsystems.com ) as well they are very good epoxy/composite suppliers. That boat looks like it could be built pretty much as a normal hard-chine hull without a huge increase in weight. wood is a lot lighter than epoxy. Remember to put a waterproof hatch in the deck, though, or you'll have huge problems if any water ever gets in. I have a "sealed" bouyancy tank on my boat... it has a lot of water in it, so now I need to drill a hole in it and drain it.

Good Luck,

Tim B.

 

Hmmm...

I've been looking at the pricing for the epoxy, and while I knew it was expensive, I didn’t think it was going to be that expensive


Is there a method I can use that is a cheaper? Fiberglass? (The question I have below might answer this for me)

What is a "hard-chine hull"?

I assume this is when you use more wood in the construction instead of epoxy?

I am/was planning on using the stitch and glue method. If I change to fiberglass do I follow the same plan as the stitch and glue method except I cover the wood and joints in fiberglass instead of epoxy?

Any suggestions?

 

Fiberglass is the reinforcement added to provide strength to the cured resin (the resin can be one of a few different types, either poly or epoxy based) All of the goo in a can methods of resin construction require reinforcement, sanding/fairing fillers, laminating agents, 'glass fibers in a number of shapes and sizes, other fabrics and materials, each providing some form of duty in the cured resin matrix. These are engineered processes and structures.

"hard chine" simply means there is a decided break in the transition from one area on the hull (usually the topsides to bottom) to an other. The other form is known as round bilge and is as the name suggests. I thing Tim B. was indicating that those little pontoon hulls could be build using more traditional plywood construction and skip the goo and tape. This is true, but there would be some draw backs, one being you'd have to engineer the strength back into the structure and considering the great strength the epoxy/tape seams impart not a task for an amateur. Those hulls would gain in weight, likely, not drop weight after the stringers, chine logs, clamps and framing structure was added. The idea with glued seam construction is to keep the part count down and use the tremendous strength of taped seams to replace most of the typical internal structure. This is what makes it attractive to backyard builders, that don't mind a little goo on their hands (also cloths, hair, bald spot, etc.) The money saved in not using epoxy and building a more typical framed structure would be spent on the additional lumber used to make up these additional structural members.

That little pontoon platform wouldn't tolerate much weight, no chop, can't carry much gear or people. A couple of fat guys, a cooler full of beer and some fishing tackle on a near glass smooth pond is all it will handle comfortably. If this is all you need, then this boat may serve you well, though don't get caught out in a thunder storm. Is there a reason (other then the free plans) that you selected this design? Jem Water Craft (as well as many other design firms) have plenty of designs in the scale you desire, for very little money, a few are free. What is the intended use for this boat? Budget? What type of conditions (wave height, wind strength, etc.) could you expect on a summer day out aboard this boat? Generally you get what you pay for . . .

Fresh water pontoon boats are a dime a dozen, where I'm at. I know of a few for less then a thousand, needing motors, new decks and trailers. In the hurricane ravaged areas, there are plenty of salvageable boats of every shape and size, with marinas and owners hoping someone will save then from the chain saw and trip to the land fill. Fitting out a beat boat is almost as fun as building and could be cheaper, when you start with a solid base. Power craft in this size range are really tools that hold up the engine, electronics and the crew. The hull is basically free, with the purchase of engine, controls and trailer.

 

this thread talks some about what i'm looking for: http://www.boatdesign.net/forums/showthread.php?t=7621

Basically, it's for me and my 3 year old son to go fishing in... As things stand now, I have a 27' aquasport... But when it's time to go fishing on the lake, I'm looking at $50 just in gas.

I want something I can take my son fishing in every week without spending so much money each trip. Thats why i'm looking at a small pontoon boat. I'll power it with a trolling motor.

It would be for small lake flishing.

 

Frankly, building a boat doesn't save you much money, until you have the experience to build it fast and the knowledge to source the materials cheaply. You may be better served with a small, flat bottomed, dory like mono hull (single hull) or skiff then having to build two hulls and install a deck and a folding contraption so it could be dragged to the launch site.

I have several small, low power flat bottom designs you may be interested in. Most can be built without the need for many gallons of epoxy and yards of 'glass cloth. Since you're looking for just a few years of service, most all of the materials could be had at the local Lowes/Depot. Sure, she will not last as long as a craft built from the best marine grade stuff, but who cares, you'll get several years service, with reasonable care. Drop me an email and I show you what's available.

Since you're powering with a trolling motor, it's important the design is intended for low power, which most designs aren't. Most power designs intend an outboard be hung off the aft end and it is blasted up to speed, with much churning of water. Low power designs move through the water with much more efficiency, thusly requiring less power to do so. Using a trolling motor to move a planning boat at displacement speeds is asking a lot of the trolling motor, but if the design is intended to move at these speeds with low power (like a trolling motor) then you'll have more battery time, less effort from your motor and a much more comfortable time of it all. Drop me a line, I have a couple of designs that require only a few sheets of plywood to get you out there on the wet stiff.

 

I have actually already bought the plywood and cut out the pieces.. =(

A friend if mine suggested just using the fiberglass epoxy and putting on a lot of coats (heavier, but a lot cheeper)

Thoughts?

 

As a truthfull construction practice, I use Tightbond II for ALL the glueing of wood joints in a boat. Keel, engine stringers, frames, decks, gusset blocks and any other wood to wood joints. Perfectly strong and safe. Just remember to coat/ seal all the joints with a water resistant coating. It worked for over 100 years before plastic glue. And many of those boats are still in water.