| ||||
|
#1
| |||
| |||
| house boat re-wiring i just receintly purchased a project houseboat that pretty much left me with the hull that is in great shape. my question is if there is any thing out their to help me with wiring up a 50 foot houseboat. i know how to run electrical through houses, i just want to make sure i know the differences before i start the job. |
|
#2
| |||
| |||
| The biggest difference of course is in the wiring. Use only boat cable that is UL listed (will be many stranded and tinned) and install it with marine end fittings using the GOOD ($60) crimps , no NAPA junk. Also remember the white wire (neutral) and green wire (ground) are NEVER joined in the boat. A genset or inverter are the only exceptions. Also the wire should never hust hang , but be supported to keep from flexing everywhere except the last few inches to the unit. being powered. FAST FRED |
|
#3
| |||
| |||
| thanks for the reply. in a house you would usually have a starting point which is where your fuse boxes are going to be. Where would i want that in my boat. near the generator? inverter? any info would be great |
|
#4
| |||
| |||
| Quote:
I'm easily confused by wiring and haven't done any for awhile but I believe the color scheme depends on the voltage you're wiring. The 120v might be what is stated above but I seem to remember the 12v only has a ground and a hot wire. The 12v ground is always black and the hot can be any color, including white or green. (Or maybe never white and green) Like I say, to me it's confusing but I think it's to help keep from accidently crossing systems, like in a lighting fixture that's got both 120v and 12v bulbs for operating off either battery power or shore/generator power. That's another thing different than a house, two 120/240 systems and switching from one to the other without killing something or someone. I don't know of any books on boat wiring but that shouldn't stop you from looking for one. You don't want to fry your electronics or somehow make your lower unit dissolve overnight from high powered galvanic action or become a link between an electrified hull and a wet dock. Sam |
|
#5
| ||||
| ||||
| There are several books on just this subject. Try the "Boat Design Book Store" tab at the top of your screen. |
|
#6
| |||
| |||
| Quote:
The starting point should be within a foot or two from where the shore power will be recieved when the boat is at a dock. These wires are unprotected till they get into the electric pannel , so should be as short as possable. The colors given are ONLY for US 110v or 220V power supplys. The genset or inverter can be where desired (invereter near batteries makes best sense) as their wiring is protected (fused or CB) from each. A book would be really helpfull for ya! DO NOT use an automotive battery charger under ANY circumstances!! Only marine. FAST FRED |
|
#7
| |||
| |||
| Quote:
I just happened to notice that in this boatbuilding forum section there are some subsections for metal bb, fiberglass bb, wood bb and "Electrical Systems". Try that for some information. Sam |
![]() |
| Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
| Display Modes | |
| |
Similar Threads | ||||
| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| The Ideal Cruiser - a long range passagemaker | D'ARTOIS | Projects & Proposals | 306 | 07-15-2011 07:54 AM |
| Hull speed | Mike D | Boat Design | 33 | 02-27-2011 02:20 AM |
| Maximizing small boat stability | Patrick_76 | Boat Design | 6 | 12-07-2005 10:50 AM |
| fiberglassing plywood boat deck | KMD | Materials | 11 | 11-10-2005 12:49 AM |
| Naval Architect Book? | Bill_Smith | Boat Design | 16 | 11-17-2004 11:08 AM |