flybridge removal/5200 adhesive?

Discussion in 'Boatbuilding' started by Rags, Feb 21, 2004.

  1. Rags
    Joined: Feb 2004
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    Location: So. Cal.

    Rags New Member

    Hi, it's my first post here. I have found a lot of helpful info here and think it is a great place. I am needing to remove the flybridge of my boat, but it is glued down with 3M 5200. Does anyone have experience removing something like this without lifting up the fiberglass it is bonded to and/or shipyard work in general? Thanks!
     
  2. Terry
    Joined: Feb 2004
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    Location: Florida Panhandle

    Terry Junior Member

    Years ago, I saw advertised a solvent for 5200. Never got a chance to try it and I don't see it advertised anymore so I guess it didn't work too well!

    The best thing I've found is a stiff putty knife or painter's scraper, a sharp razor knife and maybe a small prybar like the 6" wonderbar. Start cutting away at the 5200, slip the putty knife in and apply a little pressure. Keep doing this all around and you'll lift the flybbridge without too much damage. Takes a lot of time and elbow grease, but it works.

    Good Luck!
     
  3. gonzo
    Joined: Aug 2002
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    gonzo Senior Member

    The solvent is for uncured 5200. The putty knife, razor and flat bar are the only way I know of.. Metal fittings can be heated to over 250 degrees to melt the 5200.
     
  4. Rags
    Joined: Feb 2004
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    Rags New Member

    thanks!

    thanks for the input. i'm hearing that scraping with knife and prybar is it. i guess i just have to "man up" and go for it. :mad:
     
  5. captword
    Joined: Jan 2004
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    Location: Morehead City North Carolina

    captword Junior Member

    5200 is mean. In some applications a heat gun can be applied to area of removal and it can help some. I have found solvents that will remove it but they eat the gelcoat too. A bucket full of oak wedges. I would work around the area with raiser n putty knife. when you get an area started enuf for a wedge, wedge it and go to another area. doing it this way will save the item being emoved. Keeping from wrenching or tearing it. Plus it will keep pressure in the other areas you have started wich aids in remmoval. If you are doing this on your own on. weather can help in the process. I was removing the hatch near the end of the day and left the prybars wedged and went home. It was verycold that night and i was supprised at how much looser it was the next morning. still had my work cut out for me but the two prybars that i could barely budge the night before were loose the next morning. Biggest advice patience.
    Howard
     
  6. Ed Harrow
    Joined: Oct 2003
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    Ed Harrow Junior Member

    5200. UGH!

    My experience is limited to removing stuff stuck down with it... Phoenix had it in seams, mostly. Time works well. What worked better is that the wood wasn't really very clean, so the 5200 wasted its bonding strength on dirt, grease, paint that wasn't particularly well bonded, etc. What I have heard, but have not had occasion to try (this seems like a proper occasion) is piano wire. A person on either side, the wire fastened to two suitable dowels or similar, and "saw" back and forth while pulling "ahead". I suppose if you were bold you could hitch a battery across it to add a bit of heat, LOL. On the same vein, perhaps a section of bandsaw blade, employed in a similar manner. Good luck!
     

  7. zander
    Joined: May 2004
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    Location: HATTERAS, N.C.

    zander New Member

    Wedges Rule

    Captword Is On To It. Best Way I Know Of To Remove The White Stuff Put In Series Of Wedges An Tap Em' Home A Little Farther Each Time Let The Wedge And Time Do The Work
     
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