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  #31  
Old 04-05-2017, 08:23 PM
Dr. Oopy Dr. Oopy is offline
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I'm not too sure about that. Your project seems to be moving along pretty well too. I have yet to install any of the interior of the boat. If all goes well I should be ready to flip her over next weekend. I just sanded down the exterior today and need to fare her out and apply a coat or two of epoxy. The ice won't be off the lakes for a several weeks around here so I'm in not too big a hurry. My grandson is getting excited though. He's really looking forward to getting out fishing.....me too!
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  #32  
Old 04-06-2017, 11:38 PM
Dr. Oopy Dr. Oopy is offline
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Well, screw ups fixed the hull completely sanded, so the next step is to fair the hull. So this is done with the use of .....you guessed it, the ever popular peanut butter goo. I'm using the glue mix as fairing compound so that it will be easier to sand. It's not quite as thick as the stuff I used for gluing but stiff enough to not run all over the place. It actually sticks to the sides of the boat quite well and does double duty to fill the weave too!
I concentrated on any seams in the fiberglass first. this means that where the fiberglass overlapped or there was an edge to contend with. It didn't take too long fill those voids and I think a light sanding and a layer or two more of the goo and the weave should be filled and after a bit of a sanding the exterior should be ready for paint.
Attached is a picture of the device I plan to use to drain the boat. My plan is to drain the boat through the floor at the back of the boat. Forward movement should create enough drag to pull the water out of the boat. Since I have yet to cut any holes your input here would be greatly appreciated.
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Duckskiff first time build questions-drain-design.png  
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  #33  
Old 04-07-2017, 02:23 AM
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PAR PAR is offline
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Don't use a glue as a fairing compound, you'll regret it as soon as you have to sand much of it off, which in the case of most fairing is a large percentage. If mixing your own, use a combination of micro balloons and or quartz spheres with a touch of silica to control stiffness so it doesn't sag on vertical surfaces. For most novices I recommend using a premix product such as System Three's "QuikFair". Until you get pretty good at mixing you own, the premix stuff is superior and more importantly consistent. If you already have the glue on, take a grinder to it and knock it down with something mean, like 40 grit or less, and save your elbows (trust me on this). You can go back and fill in where you need to with the smooth and easy to sand premix later.

Your scupper just isn't going to work as well as you'd hope. They actually sell a device that does as you've envisioned, though they're not cheap, they do work well. Look into an "Anderson Bailer" or similar product.
This is one of the cheapest I've seen, but you can find them on EBay cheaper > http://www.duckworksbbs.com/ronstan/ra554130/index.htm <

For your boat, you just don't need one frankly. A simple transom drain (with the appropriate plug installed) is the common method to drain the boat when on the trailer. When underway, you'll want to use a bilge pump instead of a bailer. The bailer shown above is typically seen on sailboats and needs a fair bit of speed on to work effectively. A powerboat can easily do this, but not a rowboat. Generally you need to be going several MPH for them to work well.
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  #34  
Old 04-07-2017, 09:39 AM
Dr. Oopy Dr. Oopy is offline
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Thanks for the speedy reply, I guess I'll be sanding tomorrow to remove the peanut butter. It seemed to go on pretty well but I do remember having some trouble smoothing out the fillets and seams.

On the up side I am learning a whole bunch so all is not lost!!

Thanks again for the input PAR, Nice to see the pro's out here giving us newbs some good solid advice.
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  #35  
Old 04-07-2017, 07:38 PM
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Somebody has to do it. Keep stroking, you'll get there . . .
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