Deck Removal

No, the "oil-can" sometimes happens when production boats are made. It is shrinkage that I am referring to. This area needs to be straight. Get there without putty, as much as possible. Look at what PAR told you about bracing the hull sides, tho, I believe, the cap you have left on would hold your shape. Look at how the hull is supported. As impressed as I am with how you have gotten to the point you have, I wish you had slowed down a little and looked at things a little more carefully to begin. Is this "J" referred to possibly pulled in by the hull sides falling out? How it sits on its supports? Support this thing however you safely can, pull the hull bottom flat (gently - don't take it farther than it wants to go), then install stringers to hold that shape, then think about what to do to the bottom to get what's left true. That caprail - make it a part of the boat and not just part of a shoebox lid hanging there by a little putty and screws. I don't recall... how are you going to power this?

[PAR]

What he's referring to is called a "hook" and it's not a function of the hull design he has, though can be on other types of boats. On your boat it should avoided at all costs and if you have one, it needs to be removed.

No, you can't straighten out major distortions with the new stringers. Well, you can, but not in a driveway that's for sure. You'd need a big press and some serious skills.

The problem with an improperly supported boat is you lose control over the shape of things. Since this is likely the case now, I'm not sure what to tell you. A hook can be filled in, but as far as forcing the hull to re-shape itself, not so much. You don't have enough bulkheads to worry about oil canning, particularly now that they're removed.

[aboyd]

My hull is actually really straight and true. There is no hook that is noticable on a 6' straight piece of 2x4. The cap rail will be incorporated into the new design although it will be widened about 2-3 inches so as to I can glass in gunale supports running from the sole to underside of rail which is filled now with 1/2" ply. Plus there will be extensions off of some of the bulk heads to tie the sides more effectively to the bottom of the hull. This area i thought would also make a pretty good spot for floatation, some sort of epoxy encased foam i'm thinking. Sorry for the miss under standing Mark I wasn't really sure if you were talking about the sides or bottom of my boat. I would have liked to get some more work done on the boat but it is so stinkin hot here right now and humid plus the joyus other part of my day (work) its kind of hard to get the amount done that I would like. Mark thanks for the concerrn but every possible thing important has been measure and sketch out on graph paper so that I now where it all goes. Plus there is a little beefing up of some of the stringers and bulkheads to help with any of the support that I lost taking cabin off. Thanks once again to all and I will keep you posted on my progress. Oh one more area Iwould like your guy's expertise in is sculpers, Ya or Na, i thought once the sole of the boat is down and all back together i would take it ofr a float test and see where water line is just to make sure sole is not bellow at rest, mark the water line cut two oval slots in transom feathering back on glass a good amount and then glassing area back together. Any thoughts, or should I just let the bilge worry about any water that comes into the boat. Thanks again--- Andrew

[aboyd]

Mark I noticed I had missed a question, powerment is from a rebuilt 351 (love that blue oval, just whish it had the aftermarket like the chevs do) The motor has been spiced a little with a holley 4 barrel and a dualplane edelbrock manifold. the boat should go like a scared rabbit due to the fact that the previous owner claims 50mph not kph on the gps, speedo didn't work in the boat considering the wind resistence and weight that has been droped. And PAR I totally agree with you "Foam Sucks" every bit i pulled out was water logged. Granted if the factory had done a quality job in the first place the water most likely would not have been there, but like most things speed and quality do not mix. Another question i have is why is exterior grade ply no good to use in my transom. If it is sealed with the proper amount of epoxy where will failure come from. Has anyone ever used wrapped non water cooled exhaust manifolds in there boats. I would like to to build a pair of stainlees up swept 4into1 system tied into a pair of super trapps out the transom, high up obviously. Heat will be the #1 concern so i figured if more air is plumed into engine hatch and as i said wrap the manifolds with the heat wrap were is the problem. Thanks guy's..