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  #1  
Old 01-18-2012, 11:41 AM
danilo danilo is offline
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Closed end rivets

Hi guys,

I am wondering how good the closed end rivets are to re-rivet a aluminum boat.
Does anyone have any experience with this ?
I'm gathering info because i wanna re-rivet a aluminum boat.
Do they form a water tight construction ? What is the expected lifespan compared to the original rivets ?

Thanks
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  #2  
Old 01-18-2012, 10:19 PM
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gonzo gonzo is offline
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What is a closed end rivet?
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Old 01-19-2012, 12:47 AM
Paul Anthony Paul Anthony is offline
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A closed end, blind, pop rivet. I would recommend a high strength version for sheet aluminum or any soft, thin material. I worked at Fastenal for several years
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Old 01-19-2012, 12:48 AM
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waikikin waikikin is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gonzo View Post
What is a closed end rivet?
something like this http://www.yilianmaoding.com/productinfo.asp?id=82 I think Danilo needs the Alu mandril type
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Old 01-19-2012, 12:58 AM
Mr Efficiency Mr Efficiency is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by waikikin View Post
something like this http://www.yilianmaoding.com/productinfo.asp?id=82 I think Danilo needs the Alu mandril type
The steel mandrel type would have to be excluded for sure. Need to talk to a manufacturer to find out about what alloys ( or pure aluminium) are available best suited to the job. I have never seen a rivetted aluminium boat with pop rivets, whether that is just a cosmetic thing, I don't know. The tolerances for diameter and roundness of the hole would be pretty tight to stay watertight, I think. Sounds like a tough job.
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Old 01-19-2012, 03:46 AM
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waikikin waikikin is offline
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12 easy steps............http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NPfPryTRcY4
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Old 01-19-2012, 04:33 AM
Mr Efficiency Mr Efficiency is online now
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Hmmm...I dunno. That video was pretty damned unimpressive, no close ups at all. Riveted aluminium boats went out with valve radios in Australia, everything from the mid 60's on was welded, below waterline anyhow. I suspect pop rivets need something stronger than alloy mandrels to pull them up nice and tight. OK for temporary repairs, maybe, with pop rivets, but if there was a pop rivet system that worked for boats long term we'd have seen it on production boats where rivets are still in fashion, like north America.
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Old 01-19-2012, 05:11 AM
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Hmmm...I dunno. That video was pretty damned unimpressive, no close ups at all. Riveted aluminium boats went out with valve radios in Australia, everything from the mid 60's on was welded, below waterline anyhow. I suspect pop rivets need something stronger than alloy mandrels to pull them up nice and tight. OK for temporary repairs, maybe, with pop rivets, but if there was a pop rivet system that worked for boats long term we'd have seen it on production boats where rivets are still in fashion, like north America.
I agree... , solid rivets are superior, a fresh pop rivet has to be better than a dead solid rivet, the vid is pretty light weight I thought too- maybe I missed a winky face there. Welded/stretch formed & pressed panel boats seem to be a pretty well evolved production technique, an old Mates Dad was part founder of Quintrex & had an interest until the 70s, there's plenty of veteran welded "Fishabouts" still serving their owners well. All the best from Jeff.
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Old 01-19-2012, 05:39 AM
danilo danilo is offline
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Thanks guys
guess i have to talk to the manufacturer to find out more
about the application of closed end rivets.
Still,if there is someone out here with experience with c.e. rivets
please let me know.
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Old 01-19-2012, 10:21 AM
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I've used them for repairs on light boats, like canoes. I don't think they are adequate for the whole re-rivet job. It is not that difficult to peen rivets with a hammer and a backing iron, just time consuming.
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Old 01-19-2012, 10:47 AM
danilo danilo is offline
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Thanks gonzo,
I think i'm gonna go for the solid rivets after all.
Like you say you get a better job just add a little more time.
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Old 01-19-2012, 12:53 PM
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Originally Posted by danilo View Post
Thanks gonzo,
I think i'm gonna go for the solid rivets after all.
Like you say you get a better job just add a little more time.
You may be able to make some simple tooling for a cheap small air hammer- with the inlet pressure regulated carefully to speed the process up.
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Old 01-19-2012, 02:28 PM
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When you get the hang to peening rivets, it goes pretty fast. It will be the same as copper rivets in a wooden boat.
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Old 01-21-2012, 11:43 AM
ancient kayaker ancient kayaker is offline
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I’m not sure I would want to fill a boat with water just to see if it leaks; that puts a considerable strain on the hull especially if its fastenings are already suspect. Much easier to take a wax crayon out next time I use it and mark the leaks on the inside . . .

Shouldn’t backing washers be used on soft materials like Al?
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  #15  
Old 01-21-2012, 05:37 PM
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Rivets should have an adequate size head.
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