building a custom helm for electronics??

[seadated]

Hey everyone, First time posting and a great informative site!

I own and operate a 36 Hatteras, On the bridge I have a center helm station. ( sterring wheel, gauges, Tach's. etc...). On Both sides of the center helm area are my existing electronics built in with doors to protect from weather.

They are difficult to see while driving, I have to bend down to look and I am for ever taking my eyes off the water (especially at night navigating with Radar and the Chartplotter)

My question is this.
I am purchasing all new electronics this winter and would like to build (extend) my existing helm console on both sides, I will build each side slightly lower than the existing and want to build the top of each side at a 30 degree angle and flush mount all of the electronics. This way when I am standing and driving< i just glance down and can see the instruments perfectly and the sun will not effect the screens.

Building the frames and attaching them to the side of the helm station is no problem and cutting the plywood to recieve the electronics is also no problem.
The part I am slightly unsure of is, After I Sand the surrounding existing glass down, staturate the wood and glass it, .........
Do I glass onto the existing fiberglass?? Do I then fair it out???
What is the best way to make the new wood blend into the old glass. So it looks like it was always there???
I want to make the transition flawless. I plan on re painting the helm area all over so, the final product will be all uniformed, So matching old color to the new is not an issue.

Thanks for any help. Ps, I do have some glass experience but this will be seen every day, and those canyon runs can be 4 hours or longer and I don't want to look at a shitty job everytime Iam out.

Seadated on the Side

First thing you will want to do, is to work to a straight line in the existing glasswork. To minimize the amount of work to your project, work to a straight edge. This is accomplished by using a heavy duty tape, durable that chemicals will not "weld" the tape to the old surface. Use a long life type of masking tape, or a good name brand duct tape, found at your local hardware store. The glues are removal with some chemicals after you have finished the update job, and before you get ready for the total paint job.

Double tape an edge, before grinding the gelcoat, or paint off. Drape good plastice or a tarp material by attaching it with an additional piece of tape on top of the good tape. If the tarp or plastic gets messy, jsut peel off and retape to the surface of the existing tape. When you are done with your tabs, then remove the original tape and feather down, even fairing the leftover edge to another line of tape just below the line that you worked to during the work process. In the finish job, use a nice fine line tape for the finish work, or just do the total paint job, then. Don't let your new work encroach the exisitng glass work.