Building a boat for the first time

[andrew_busch]

Hi guys,

I'm completely new to boat building, in fact I had to search wikipedia to figure out what "epoxy" and "port" (the left side of a boat) was today.

So now that you know more about me, I'm planning on building an extremely minimalistic boat - so much so that it could quite practically be called a "coffin", based on it's shape and... external impacts (hopefully not). It just needs to be able to float and drift around in a swimming pool, and if it ends up being a success, I may consider taking it with me when I move back to my home country, in which I can go sailing/rowing around the marina.

Now I have these nice sheets of plywood, particularly 3 0.7m X 2.5m ones - two 8mm and one 16mm. So I'm thinking that I could make a very basic two chine (bet I'm using that wrong) boat, like this: \_/ or: |_|. I think angled sides would be better, as it may lessen the claustrophobia of being in a boat that small. I was planning on chucking a piece of timber at the joints to beef it up a bit. Oh, and for the front, I'm going to keep it perpendicular to the water, and I got some other plywood planks and thin sheets that I could use there.

So as you can see, I got this down, except for most of it. Now for the joining, I was thinking that nails wood be good enough. But I realize that you can't just nail together pieces of wood and expect it to be sea worthy, so how do I seal it? I'd rather use something that hasn't got any health risks in both the construction and the usage, and is also cheap and easy. I heard paint can suffice.

So overall, how is my current design? And how do I do a simple job with sealing for a basic plywood frame boat?

[alan white]

Nailing the boat would work fine, but do you have access toi boat nails? Otherwise, galvanized nails will hold it together for a few years, and they are cheap.
the section you "drew" (cleverly, I might add) shows a dory shape, and in fact, a small rowing dory might be the perfect start for you. Google "banks dory" and you might even find a free plan or two. 3-4 meters would be about right for a small rowable dory, but if you want to go really small, you may need to go with a semi-dory to have enough volume to carry any weight. A semi-dory has a wider stern. Then 2 1/2 meters is possible.

[Rhinox]

try googling "South Haven Dory". I think you'll like what you find.

[andrew_busch]

I've had a look at the suggestions you've given, and yes, I do quite like the south haven dory. However, I've noticed that pretty much every boat design incorporates some sort of curved wood, which somewhat intimidates me, as I've never done any sort of woodwork like that. Is curved wood virtually a necessity, or can a boat with a side view like: |_________| or \_______| be ok? I don't really have ages to build this, as it's more just like a fun little project for a portion of a week off, so I'd rather a more simple design, but then again, having a good boat would be very nice.

[alan white]

I disagree with the idea that a highly comprimised shape like an oblong box has merit as a first boat. At a certain point, one might as well buy a boat. After all, what then is the purpose of the building process?
Most of the work involved in a curve-sided boat is in designing it. Purchase a design.
Otherwise, you will be stuck with a jon boat, which can be built without curves. Maybe that kind of a boat is satisfactory and it does have its uses. It is strictly a protected water boat. It has a dead flat bottom and somewhat (10 degree) flared sides, and the sides are generally parallel. The underside of the bow can be a simple 45 degree angle, and the transonm can be a 10 degree angle.
I encourage you to create a shape that has some curves. After all, that's what makes the project satisfying, which is the benefit of building something yourself. It's not to save time or money.
A dory is very easy to build, and its curves make the structure stronger. and compare rowing a dory and rowing a jon boat and you would choose the dory every time.

[andrew_busch]

Hmm... true, I suppose I can't really call it a boat if it doesn't go much further than a wooden crate.

But considering that this boat will probably spend most of it's time in a pool, stability is definitely favoured over speed in rowing. However, I wouldn't mind it being rather decent at rowing. So I think a mixture would be good, i.e. very stable, but quite decent regarding it's flow through the water.

Wait, I think I didn't fully understand the definition of a dory. It has the side view of \_____/ and a cross section of \____/ but a bird's eye view of <=> (more or less), right? I thought the bottom was curved, so it was like a banana... . Then in that case, I think I'll attempt at a simple dory. However, I'm not one to buy plans, and even getting a complete plan for free would make me feel not content. I'll probably try my hand at writing up a plan, hopefully I know enough trig and geometry to do it all. I'll still definitely get a lot of guiding here, as I'd rather it work than not.

For the sides, would a sheet of ply be ok, or should you do plank by plank? A sheet of ply would be harder to get right, but if you did, it'd be quick. On the other hand, I'd imagine that planks would be easier to plan but more work.

[alan white]

i don't know what you don't like about plans, at this stage in your aquaintance with boatbuilding; I won't judge your decision, but I'll tell you I don't recommend it.
I am building a dory this year and I will absolutely use Phil Bolger's plans, pay the $25.00 and know I'll be building one of the most refined rough water rowing machines ever designed.
Nevertheless... plywood is the way to go--- easier to build and own. If you must design your own boat, do a bit of research first and closely copy something that actually has been built.
Many of your questions are easily answered by your reading online or by getting a couple of books out of the library. Familiarize yourself with how dories go together, look up prices for materials, and generally bone up on the subject. I could certainly answer questions for you, but to be honest, it's much more efficient for both of us to deal with questions you can't easily find answers for.

[apex1]

Andrew
let me blow the same horn as Alan please.

I build some 18 to 30 boats per annum, and if I would build me a dory I would purchase some proven plans first, even if the boat would be built by one of my skilled shipwrights then.
You waste time and money trying to design it yourself.
Regards
Richard

[rasorinc]

Good posting Richard. I always tell them we will buy a proven hull and then topsides and interiors we can customize. Also can lengthen the hull within limits set forth by the N.A. Best, Stan

[PAR]

Andrew, considering you're extremely limited knowledge of building concepts, design principles and engineering applications, you'd be best advised to heed the notions of the other posters here.

In other words, if you have to look up which side of the boat is to port, then you are grossly unqualified to consider designing that which you clearly haven't a clue about.

Would you travel in an elevator that was designed by a person, who had to look up "retractable doors" before the process could begin?

[Ike]

I agree with Par to a certain extetn. You need to know more about what you are doing. But, a good way to learn is building a boat from plans you purchase that have good instructions and building notes. Actually from what you have said so far a dory sounds close to what you want. But why don't you go for a drift boat. It's very similar to a dory and simple to build. look here http://montana-riverboats.com/.

Once you know more about it then you can start kicking around ideas for your own design.

[andrew_busch]

I'll give it some thought wether I'll actually use plans or not. However, I'd like to point out once again that this boat is for my pool, so there isn't any risk in deaths, and I won't allow someone who can't swim to get in it.

But I think it would be best that I do some more research and reading into dory boat designs, as I think that would be the best design to go with. It's holidays for me right now, so I'm not sure if my school library is open, and if it even is open, I doubt it'd have that information. So I think the internet is the best way to go for me... . I'll do some research, and post again here if I need any more guidance.

Thanks for all the advice!

[Ike]

Not to be sarcastic but do you have any idea how many americans drown in pools every day? 6 every day. It happens to be the 4th leading cause of accidental death in the US.

My point is just, because you are going to use this only in your pool doesn't mean you shouldn't do it right. And you get the added benefit of being able to take the boat to the lake or river.

[andrew_busch]

I still don't think that I'm breaching moral code by making a rubbish boat, or being dangerous either, as I myself am on my school swim team, and once again, it's just for a pool and I'd make sure that everyone who goes in it can swim, unless I do actually make it well of course. Still, I'd be very cautious, so don't worry.

And I do want to do it right, it's just a question of how well. Like of course the ultimate would be to make a beautiful, large dory that I can bring back to Australia and use to row around in the sea, and lasts me decades, but there's no way that I'm going to require that level of quality. I simply want a boat that will be very hardy for calm waters like a pool and will last a bare minimum of a couple of months. I'll take it out of the pool when I'm not using it too, so yeah, I don't demand much at all for this boat.

Anyway, I've had a look online at methods of building dorys, and so far the most popular method seems to be the stitch and glue one, using epoxy and fiberglass strips as the sealant and also for strengthening. Is it necessary to do it this way? What are other methods with a similar or lower degree of simplicity for a plywood dory? I was thinking that screws could be used, and maybe something like silastic and a good oil-based paint...

[PAR]

Glued lap produces a prettier dory, uses much less epoxy, one the chine seam is taped and is lighter.