Boat Design Forums  |  Boat Design Directory  |  Boat Design Gallery  |  Boat Design Book Store  |  Thanks to Our Site Sponsors

Go Back   Boat Design Forums > Construction > Boatbuilding
Register FAQ Members List Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1  
Old 03-13-2011, 03:35 PM
CatBuilder CatBuilder is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Rep: 1320 Posts: 3,036
Location: Northeast
Best Way to Put In Temporary Bulkheads?

I have a logistics nightmare when it comes to moving my hulls around.

I have found a solution, but it involved temporary half bulkheads going into 2 of the half hulls.

The half hulls are just glued together foam with one single skin of 34oz triaxial on the *inside* of the hull.

I need to lift these hulls and move them around, so I need to support them.

I want to put in several temporary bulkheads, but I don't want to cause any problems or a lot of extra work doing it.

So, what's the best way to attach temporary bulkheads to my inner skin, while preserving its quality for secondary bonding of the real bulkheads later?
__________________
"You can't solve all of life's problems with epoxy" - My Wife
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 03-13-2011, 03:55 PM
hoytedow's Avatar
hoytedow hoytedow is offline
Resistor
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Rep: 1871 Posts: 3,354
Location: Norte de Cuba
I think hot-melt glue would be fine for temporary bonding and won't leave a residue. Any clinging clumps can be yanked off with a plier. Otherwise use mechanical fasteners and patch resulting holes with epoxy.
__________________
Hoyt
"Lightning is very selective and will not strike crap." Wynand N
"We Redistribute World's Wealth By Climate Policy" UN IPCC Official
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 03-13-2011, 04:16 PM
CatBuilder CatBuilder is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Rep: 1320 Posts: 3,036
Location: Northeast
Quote:
Originally Posted by hoytedow View Post
I think hot-melt glue would be fine for temporary bonding and won't leave a residue. Any clinging clumps can be yanked off with a plier. Otherwise use mechanical fasteners and patch resulting holes with epoxy.

Hmmm....

I forgot to mention I'd like to be able to lift the boat by two bulkheads while pulling it out.

Maybe that won't be possible without a real bulkhead... in that case, I'd use the straps I have.

How do I know the hot melt glue won't leave a residue on my virgin glass, which has to accept secondary bonds still?

Also, what about tabbing?

Could I tab them in with 4 (qty) 2" tabs on each side of each bulkhead? Take the heat gun to the part of the tab on the plywood when I need to remove, then grind the little remnant off the real hull? Or... would that cause too much stress on the skin where the hull is when I go to lift the boat by the bulkhead?
__________________
"You can't solve all of life's problems with epoxy" - My Wife
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 03-13-2011, 04:40 PM
hoytedow's Avatar
hoytedow hoytedow is offline
Resistor
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Rep: 1871 Posts: 3,354
Location: Norte de Cuba
Let me think about that awhile.
__________________
Hoyt
"Lightning is very selective and will not strike crap." Wynand N
"We Redistribute World's Wealth By Climate Policy" UN IPCC Official
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 03-13-2011, 05:15 PM
hoytedow's Avatar
hoytedow hoytedow is offline
Resistor
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Rep: 1871 Posts: 3,354
Location: Norte de Cuba
I am no expert, but if the bulkhead needs to come out I would use mechanical fasteners strong enough to hold hull weight and be prepared to fill holes afterward. I can't think of another way to do it without having to grind off epoxy tabs. Others know far more than do I. Par should be the best authority on this question.
__________________
Hoyt
"Lightning is very selective and will not strike crap." Wynand N
"We Redistribute World's Wealth By Climate Policy" UN IPCC Official
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 03-13-2011, 05:47 PM
CatBuilder CatBuilder is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Rep: 1320 Posts: 3,036
Location: Northeast
Ok, I'll hold off until some more guys are on the forum. Thanks.

I really don't want to drill any holes in the new hull. I don't mind grinding off epoxy tabs at all though.
__________________
"You can't solve all of life's problems with epoxy" - My Wife
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 03-13-2011, 06:04 PM
Charly Charly is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Rep: 271 Posts: 209
Location: st simons island ga
Quote:
Originally Posted by CatBuilder View Post
Ok, I'll hold off until some more guys are on the forum. Thanks.

I really don't want to drill any holes in the new hull. I don't mind grinding off epoxy tabs at all though.
use straps fastened to the bulkheads at the top, and wrapped around the outside of the hull and fastened to the bottom. use a temp stringer to hold it all in place?
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 03-13-2011, 06:18 PM
CatBuilder CatBuilder is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Rep: 1320 Posts: 3,036
Location: Northeast
Might work. Where would the temp stringer go? What would hold it to the hull?
__________________
"You can't solve all of life's problems with epoxy" - My Wife
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 03-13-2011, 07:49 PM
Charly Charly is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Rep: 271 Posts: 209
Location: st simons island ga
Quote:
Originally Posted by CatBuilder View Post
Might work. Where would the temp stringer go? What would hold it to the hull?
notch out the temp bulkhead for a stringer where it meets the hull, and put triangular braces from bulkhead to bulkhead to keep them vertical. Maybe slip a longitudnal stiffener outsude to hull between the strap and the hull as well.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 03-13-2011, 10:21 PM
p_smith p_smith is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: May 2010
Rep: 13 Posts: 12
Location: Florida
Hey Cat, thanks so much for documenting your build, very useful and educational for an amateur like myself.

Is there any way you could leave the first half hull in its mold until you finish its mate and join them with final bulkheads? Seems that if you remove it at this point you're bound to introduce longitudinal distortion into the hull that you will never be able to truly remove. It would be a shame after all that laser work.
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 03-13-2011, 11:47 PM
CatBuilder CatBuilder is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Rep: 1320 Posts: 3,036
Location: Northeast
Thanks for the kind words, smith.

How could I build the 2nd half hull if the mold is not empty?

Anyway, too many issues to discuss here with logistics, so I won't. Anyone know how to do temporary bulkheads?
__________________
"You can't solve all of life's problems with epoxy" - My Wife
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 03-14-2011, 03:14 AM
TeddyDiver's Avatar
TeddyDiver TeddyDiver is online now
Gollywobbler
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Rep: 1348 Posts: 2,048
Location: Finland/Norway
Take some 2 x 4 cut them in to shape (on top of another) fast them together with boards on both sides and tighten it on the hull half with trailer straps around..
Reply With Quote
Reply



Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Best Temporary Cove Joint Material? CatBuilder Boatbuilding 1 03-13-2011 12:47 PM
where would you put a fin? Frosty Boat Design 15 03-02-2007 01:49 PM
Need a Rhino Man to put in a file? S Hondros Software 6 08-30-2006 04:25 AM
Temporary Workshop Brasstom Boatbuilding 2 05-06-2006 12:37 AM
Where to put the exhaust? Allan Jennings Sailboats 4 02-01-2006 08:06 AM


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:24 AM.


Powered by: vBulletin Copyright ©2000 - 2012, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Web Site Design and Content Copyright ©1999 - 2012 Boat Design Net