1st time boat restoration..

[Martell_Florida]

Hello all,
I'm new to the forum and I have already seen a great deal of good information. I have had a few boats in the past, but I've never done more than regular maintenance and cleaning. I just purchased an 18 foot cobia sportster as my 1st project and I was hoping to get a few pointers. I have stripped all of the deck hardware, rubrail, gauges, interior, windshield, and I'm ready to tackle the floor.
1. The existing floor is soaked and I want to replace with 3/4 inch marine grade ply, and glass. I'm pretty comfortaqble with this project, but what are the key mistakes to avoide in such a project?
2. I'll be repainting the entire boat. What are some products to use for the interior / topside? What are my options for the hull? Currently it looks like paint from the rubrail down and underneath, and up to the rubrail on the other side. What are the differences in paint vs Gelcoat? Does the hull need to be sealed prior to paint? any help would be appreciated...

[wdnboatbuilder]

May I ask why 3/4 ply for the floor? More than likely you could get away with 3/8 why add extra weight when you don't have to. If painting is what you want to do there are primers (epoxy high build) that will seal the hull when applied. Very expensive but work well.

[Martell_Florida]

1st off, let me thank you for your reply. I posted this over 3 months ago and you were the only person to offer an opinion. I am inexperienced in boat restoration and purchased this boat as my 1st project. I realize that 3/4" is overkill and I have purchased 1/2" for the floor and interior panels. As far as painting the Hull, I am planning on sanding the hull down to bare glass, applying an epoxy barier coat, then epoxy primer, then topcote color. Is this correct? Also, Can I use the same premium topcote color below the waterline if the boat is going to betrailered? Any help would be appreciated. Thank You!

[Martell_Florida]

Attached are the "before" pictures

[wdnboatbuilder]

Seems odd that I was the only one replying to your threads. Not sure about the Topcoat paint your talking about but hell I do not use any marine paint ( finish) I use automotive paint ( PPG ) sticks well to epoxy primers and holds up very well, and best of all it's less expensive.

The sanding to a bare hull all you will find is mat, and alot of fairing. Are you just trying to achieve a newer look? If so why not buffing out the gelcoat, or even regelcoating. Just about the same amount of sanding.

[Martell_Florida]

I am not sure if the current hull is factory gelcoat or if it has been painted in the past. I have to do a few small repairs anyway, so I was going to sand the entire hull just to make sure that there are no existing mistakes underneth. I have already torn the boat down to the stringers and I'm in the process of installing the new floor, storage lockers, and Interior. A few more hours of sanding will seem like nothing when I'm finished.

[wdnboatbuilder]

Are you using this boat fresh or salt water? Where in Fl are you?

[PAR]

Martell, I'm as surprised as Bruce about the only response thing. This was the first I'd seen this thread.

The photos look to be a mid 70's Cobra and the sole (inner decking) was 1/2" tabbed and sheathed. There are lots of these still in service. That is the very faded factory color (one of them) though it's possible to have been painted too.

I agree with Bruce in that grinding back to the mat (likely chopped) will just make a lot more work for you. Knock it smooth, make your repairs and paint it. If you want to barrier coat, that's fine, but if it's not necessary (blisters, lots of repairs, etc.) then don't bother with the effort and expense. Most paints will stick to an epoxy barrier coat without the need for primer, though you should check with the epoxy manufacture for paint compatibility recommendations. I generally get forced to shoot what my clients prefer for paint, though I can be stubborn if their choices don't work well (I've turned people away because of their persistence on an issue that I wouldn't comply with)

Check the transom for softness (it likely will be) by lifting the engine up until it hits it's stop then apply more upward pressure with an eye (or two) on the through bolt attachments in the transom. If they move as you jack up that motor, or are clearly showing signs of puckering, the transom core needs to be renewed (very common on this era boat)

Another thing to do is provide "weep" (drain) holes in the sole support structure (stringers and partial bulkheads holding up the inner decking) so any water in there can drain aft to a transom plug or to a well where a pump can send it overboard. If you install the transom drain plug (easiest and cheapest) then always store the boat with the bow high so water can drain aft and out the drain.

There are many other threads on this site addressing the same issues you are facing with this old bow rider. Do a few searches and you'll find many offerings, that may be of service to you, particularly transom repairs. Good Luck . . .

[longliner45]

the 3/8 plywood is a lot better on you knees and joints,,,,it gives a little more

[Martell_Florida]

Thank you for your input.
I will post a few more photos this weekend. I am in Tampa and this boat will be in Salt Water.