1972 Hardtop - Stringer and glass

Discussion in 'Boatbuilding' started by campbell, Jun 15, 2005.

  1. campbell
    Joined: Jun 2005
    Posts: 2
    Likes: 0, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 10
    Location: Washington

    campbell New Member

    Thanks for taking the time to read. I'm 35 years old and have been waiting to purchase a 1972 Fiberform Hardtop 18' for about 17 years now. The story is my father had purchased one in 1972 when I was 2 years old. My father was the chief of the Kent Fire Department in Washington State, when he was killed in the line of duty in 1979. Mom had sold the boat among many other things. I always wanted to purchase this same boat, and now I have.

    Thats the story, here is one of the problems. :confused:

    I had thought the floor and stringers were sound, but that was proven wrong. Found that the stringers where the engine mounts are rotted and worked their way up about 4 feet toward the bow. The foam is completely saturated with water and the plywood floor is only soft where it meets the stringers. There are 2 stringers the run forward from the engine.

    I want to replace them from the transom to the point of solid wood. I feel intimidated on removing the stringer where it meets the hull. I'm not sure how far down to cut the glass to expose the bottom of the stringers, any help?

    I also here a lot about resin v's epoxy, and I am now very confused. I have very good carpentry skills and have done some glass work to an old 14' boat that I had (did not look the greatest but it worked). I think I need more explanation with this, and maybe the name of these products. I also here alot about different glass cloths? I went to a local hardware store where they had 3-4 different resins and bulk fiberglass cloth.

    Can someone make this easy for me?

    Thanks so much!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    I have lots of pics for you if needed and will also have a fuel tank question later.
    I own a residential and commercial painting company if some wants to barter knowledge and or labor skills.

    email- campbellpaintingco@yahoo.com
     

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    Last edited: Jun 16, 2005
  2. marshmat
    Joined: Apr 2005
    Posts: 4,127
    Likes: 149, Points: 63, Legacy Rep: 2043
    Location: Ontario

    marshmat Senior Member

    Knowledge exists to be freely shared.....

    K, so about the rotten stringers. They were probably built by laying a wooden core on the hull itself while in the mold, and then that would be glassed over. First step would be to get all the wrecked foam out. When cutting the old stringer out, stop cutting well before you reach the level of the surrounding hull. The wood will be easy to remove. Try looking through old threads on here for tips on getting the old stringers out, it's a common problem.

    Be glad you only have 4 resins to choose from at that store! There are several hundred available for different purposes, and it can get intimidating comparing 12 different types of Hysol alone against 8 or 10 other brands.... For what you're doing, I'd suggest West System epoxy. It's stronger than polyesters, easier to work with and less finicky, and designed for this kind of thing. Fibreglass cloths come in a wide range of weights and weave types. (Veil = fine, cloth = medium, roving = coarse weave.) A general-purpose cloth of around 6 ounces weight is easy to work with for this kind of thing. You'll want to practice on scraps to get your corners and edges down first, and to figure out how many layers get you to the same thickness as the old stringers.

    No, we can't make this easy for you. Restoration is challenging. But with your carpentry background you'll be able to learn very easily. Have fun, and come right on back here with any new developments.
     
  3. campbell
    Joined: Jun 2005
    Posts: 2
    Likes: 0, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 10
    Location: Washington

    campbell New Member

    Thanks for everything. You have been a great help. :)
     
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